Bikesure_adrianflux

Headlamp Adapter Rings

I'm glad you have managed to fit your new light Sandro and are reaping the benefit of the extra lumens.
I admire the way you have persuaded the adapter to fit your rim. I had one of these rims in my hand at one time and couldn't see any way that even a correctly sized adapter would pass the tabs to get to the bottom of the rim. Obviously I wasn't going to start bending the tabs on someone else's rim! It was also clear that the wire spring clips were never going to fit either.

I am embarrassed that after making adapters for over 3 years now, that I have only just realised that there is yet another size of lamp fitted to Monsters that needs help!

I'm prepared to look into making a specific adapter for these plastic lamps. The retaining system is already germinating in my mind, but would involve laser cut metal parts, so would not be so cheap as the present ones.

Has anyone got a complete lamp/rim/glass assy that I could buy or borrow please?
 
Plastic headlight

so I was able to go to a hardware store and buy the bolts and nuts I wanted to see if they would work and they worked great! You will need 3 of each as you have 3 tabs to do. You need 3 #6-32 X 3/4” allen cap bolts 3 #6-32 nut I used the thin ones and 3 #6-32 cap nuts. You can also use #8-32 hardware but of course they didn’t have everything I needed in 8-32! I took out the nuts I used the other day and ruthenium changed them one at a time. Before toy tighten down everything make sure the headlight is centered! Don’t ask me how I know! I first put the bolt in the tab and then added the nut and then the cap bolt. I tightened the cap nut first and then nut until it was tight to the tab. If the cap nut isn’t making good contact with the headlight bend the tab without the bolt until it’s dose. Once you have all three on you will see how good the light feels. Then just add the bucket and reinstall it to the bike. Don’t forget to aim the light and set it up. I went on a 40 mile ride tonight after I installed in including dark roads and I have to see it makes a huge difference! Also I checked the headlight and nothing moved at all I think it’s was the nuts that are tightened to the tab. The only thing I need to do now it put a couple of beads of silicone so water doesn’t get into the headlight. Thanks again to Gary for this adapter and so happy I was able to make it work! Workin and fabricating on Racecars help me solve this!
Here are the photos

Thanks again to Gary for this great adapter!

The hardware
C10808-C4-7-D64-44-D3-977-B-D18155105761.jpg


5-A102582-1-EB0-4-A69-9885-11119-F50-BAEA.jpg


Installed

8-F9-BEF88-EDFF-42-BD-829-A-2-A488-C3-DB4-E3.jpg


14-CE49-F9-303-B-420-F-B461-55-E3-BC124-F8-E.jpg


All three tabs done

CDF170-C0-7977-4-DF4-813-F-A480-BEE42-DC9.jpg


On the bike

B6633-A15-C07-D-4266-9923-CAD9-E1-E44-DCC.jpg


C028-CC0-F-5824-4-F39-8069-034-BB7-F0-ACCF.jpg


A9-AFD456-C830-4-A42-8-C0-B-2-CE8028-E4-FF7.jpg
 
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for #6-32 X 3/4” read M3 x 19mm (#8-32 is approx 3.5mm)

;-)
 
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Inspired!
Well done Sandro.. :mand:

I like what you've done. Luckily the ribs on the LED unit will stop any rotation in the rim too, and the silicone will finish the job off nicely. That said you shouldn't need the silicone to seal the headlamp as water will have gotten into the shell with the original arrangement anyway. It just drains out of holes in the shell. It will stop any movement of the adapter against the rim though, which will be a good thing.

I definitely need to get an adapter and retaining system prototyped for these lamps.
My appeal for the loan of a rim still stands... Please anyone.

Rob beat me to it with the Anglo-US translation-conversion of units, another reminder of two nations divided by a common language!

It's even more confusing than at first sight, as in the US they say "six thirty two" and "eight thirty two" whereas we would be more likely to say "six thirty seconds" or rather "Three sixteenths" and "Quarter" for the later. The only thing worse is the metrification of inches! (0.25 for 1/4")
I did my apprenticeship in imperial, but I'm glad the UK has embraced the Metric system now and works only in mm and Meters (except for cm which dressmakers seem to prefer!). My Norton hails back to the imperialistic days and can't even keep to one system, with thread rates in particular being all over the place!! I wonder what thread rates are common in the US ? Please tell me it isn't Whitworth!!

S2R looking good Sandro... Enjoy.. :mand:
 
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Mr Gazza said:
Inspired!
Well done Sandro.. :mand:

I like what you've done. Luckily the ribs on the LED unit will stop any rotation in the rim too, and the silicone will finish the job off nicely. That said you shouldn't need the silicone to seal the headlamp as water will have gotten into the shell with the original arrangement anyway. It just drains out of holes in the shell. It will stop any movement of the adapter against the rim though, which will be a good thing.

I definitely need to get an adapter and retaining system prototyped for these lamps.
My appeal for the loan of a rim still stands... Please anyone.

Rob beat me to it with the Anglo-US translation-conversion of units, another reminder of two nations divided by a common language!

It's even more confusing than at first sight, as in the US they say "six thirty two" and "eight thirty two" whereas we would be more likely to say "six thirty seconds" or rather "Three sixteenths" and "Quarter" for the later. The only thing worse is the metrification of inches! (0.25 for 1/4")
I did my apprenticeship in imperial, but I'm glad the UK has embraced the Metric system now and works only in mm and Meters (except for cm which dressmakers seem to prefer!). My Norton hails back to the imperialistic days and can't even keep to one system, with thread rates in particular being all over the place!! I wonder what thread rates are common in the US ? Please tell me it isn't Whitworth!!

S2R looking good Sandro... Enjoy.. :mand:
Click to expand...

It shall be interesting to see what systems of measurement prevail in the UK?
 
Which way up should these type of LED units be fitted, or does it not matter? I notice that Sandro has the larger of the 2 projector units below the smaller one.

On the one I fitted to mine it is the other way up and I determined that from the lettering on the lens cover being the right way up. They may be completely different units but they look very similar to me and likely to be made from the same components. Mine is a Far East/Chinese sourced unit, I think it came from Hong Kong.
 
Ideally yours would be left hand dip Darren and Sandro's would be right hand dip. I wouldn't be surprised if the dip cut off was flat on both though.

If it dips upwards then it's probably up-side-down!.. :dunce:
 
oh yeah... because you can’t do serious engineering without metricating.
even when imperial was the standard you still had to use ‘thou’ for precision work, that’s inherently metrication

i’m sure the ‘smidgen’ and ‘gnat’s cock hair’ will make a comeback for precise measuring.
you won’t need the conversion table if you remember it’s 4.28 $hitloads to the £uck ton
 
slob said:
oh yeah... because you can’t do serious engineering without metricating.
even when imperial was the standard you still had to use ‘thou’ for precision work, that’s inherently metrication

i’m sure the ‘smidgen’ and ‘gnat’s cock hair’ will make a comeback for precise measuring.
you won’t need the conversion table if you remember it’s 4.28 $hitloads to the £uck ton
Click to expand...

Having owned V8 Land Rovers, I’ve still got a wide range of Whitworth, AF, BA and Metric hammers and screwdrivers in my tool box.
 
I have a bunch of AF tools, doesn’t mean it’s a superior system. Although I think most of my hammers and screwdrivers are imperial (due to being made by a well known American company). The staunchly non-metric US put men on the moon, I’m pretty sure NASA use metres and grammes to calculate shizzle.

... I just looked that up and they’ve been ‘mostly metric’ since 1990 rofl

they lost the Mars Climate Orbiter in 1999, when somone failed to convert units to metric, and it burned up entering the atmosphere :-O
 
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Mr Gazza said:
Ideally yours would be left hand dip Darren and Sandro's would be right hand dip. I wouldn't be surprised if the dip cut off was flat on both though.

If it dips upwards then it's probably up-side-down!.. :dunce:
Click to expand...

I'm fairly sure it doesn't dip noticeably left or right and my logic when fitting it was that the biggest projector on top and the writing was the right way around. You've got me doubting myself now so I will need to check it as I'm sure one of us has it upside down. :spin:
 
... I just looked that up and they’ve been ‘mostly metric’ since 1990 rofl

As I understand it, the Americans are going Metric Inch by Inch...
 
True it’s hard to find metric here. But I wanted to see how this would work and I believe it came out great.
 
slob said:
for #6-32 X 3/4” read M5 x 19mm (#8-32 is approx M6)
;-)
Click to expand...

'Fraid not, Rob.
No.6-32 is actually 0.138" dia which makes it roughly 3.5mm dia
No.8-32 is 0.164" dia which is roughly 4.15mm dia
The pitch of 32 tpi is also much finer than the std pitch for either m5 or m6 threads


I still say five thirty-two rather than five thirty-seconds.
Mind you, the place where I did my engineering had fairly strong American connections.
I would never say six thirty-two though ... its either No.6-32 or three sixteenths, depending on whether you're talking threads or dimensions.
:spin:

And finally ...
I have to say, I still prefer working in thou (..sandths of an inch) when I'm machining.
I know that sounds like being a luddite but it isn't really .. its just that its a more appropriately sized unit for the job in hand.
Tenths of a mm are too big and hundredths of a mm are too small.
And both are too much of a mouthful.
There, I've said it now .. I'm sure I've let myself in for criticism.


Oh, and by way of excusing the digression, I will just say once again ...
Gazza's adaptors are fab.
I've been using one for ages and its been perfect.

And welcome along, Sandro.
 
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Funny I didn’t think this would turn into a metric English battle! Honestly I just picked up what I found. Unfortunately we really don’t have great Hardware store here like we used to. But the size I used was just a guide. Anything that fit in the hole would work. Brought the screw I took out but of course they only had 2 and not 3. So I picked up what they had and made it work.
 
utopia said:
'Fraid not, Rob.
No.6-32 is actually 0.138" dia which makes it roughly 3.5mm dia
No.8-32 is 0.164" dia which is roughly 4.15mm dia
The pitch of 32 tpi is also much finer than the std pitch for either m5 or m6 threads


I still say five thirty-two rather than five thirty-seconds.
Mind you, the place where I did my engineering had fairly strong American connections.
I would never say six thirty-two though ... its either No.6-32 or three sixteenths, depending on whether you're talking threads or dimensions.
:spin:

And finally ...
I have to say, I still prefer working in thou (..sandths of an inch) when I'm machining.
I know that sounds like being a luddite but it isn't really .. its just that its a more appropriately sized unit for the job in hand.
Tenths of a mm are too big and hundredths of a mm are too small.
And both are too much of a mouthful.
There, I've said it now .. I'm sure I've let myself in for criticism.


Oh, and by way of excusing the digression, I will just say once again ...
Gazza's adaptors are fab.
I've been using one for ages and its been perfect.

And welcome along, Sandro.
Click to expand...

To finish the education Utopia, what does the 32 part of “# 6 - 32” signify, as it clearly isn’t the denominator of 6/32” for which I’d taken it to be.

https://elginfasteners.com/resources/metric-bolt-conversion-metric-to-standard-bolt-conversion/

I see from a table that # 0 is 1.524mm dia. So it’s not like wire gauges where the Number gets bigger as the wire gets finer as it’s pulled through dies
 
thanks for the correction Jeff. I’ll edit my original response to avoid confusion.

I guess with lathes etc. you’re basically stuck with whatever feed and lead screws the manufacturer provided and have no choice but to convert.

I ended up buying some feeler guages from Germany since it seems impossible to find natively metric ones here.
 
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