Bikesure_adrianflux

S4R fuel sensor

S4R Dude

S4R Dude

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Joined
Jul 8, 2008
Messages
138
Location
Vidouze
Bike
S4r
Hello all

The bike has been sat up for a couple of years and today i thought i would get it back on the road.
Foolishly i did nothing as i was not expecting for it to be sat up.

So on trying to start it....turns over but no firing so i smelt the petrol....craps it smelt bad.

So tank off and fuel drained out of the pipes, there was still some in there so i thought i would drop out the sensor and properly drain the tank and from here it got funky.
The sensor took some pulling to get out and i found it had swollen and split along its length which explained why it was so hard to pull out.

Now i will get a new one but does anyone have any tips on how to release the electrical connection set inside the tank?
 
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You have to open the fuel cap and remove the flange and orings then the fuel filter and pump the sensor plug and power lead go to the pump

then u can flush tank ,, replace fuel filter new Orings with grease on ,, be careful easy to cut o rings when replacing them and refitting flange
 
Cheers Jerry,

I have all that out and can see the connector in the tank but can not get a grip on it to disconnect it.
I am loath to pull on it in case i break it. Are they just a pull off type or is there a slot for a screwdriver to release a latch. Awkward place for them to have put it.
 
I've always managed to get them off purely by feel in the past, they do come off fairly easily. I can't remember how they latch now, but it will be pretty intuitive once you can get your fingers on it.
It will detach upwards towards you on the axis of the pump.
 
If it's like my M900 (i.e.) tank, then the pump is just held in a spring loaded clip and so pulls out easily and IIRC the power cable is a simple 2 pin plug though there maybe a simple lock/clip mechanism, I can't remember?

Best to undo the hoses and remove the whole assembly, like this;

12546-1702295212-79de9f7ce3323146a9be8415ebaab098.jpg


But it is a job to get at due to the small opening and tight angle so expect scuffed wrists.

Much better the system used in 916 etc. where a removable plate is fitted to the underside of the tank and the whole assembly simply pulls out.
 
I've found that you need much more hand penetration to get the pump out of the clip than to get the connector off the top and more still to get the pump clipped back in place properly.
I'd leave the pump alone and just tug on the connector.
Maybe you could get further in with a bit of Vaseline?
Or if your hands are really too big you could wait outside the school gates with a pot of Vaseline and be ready with the line "Do you fancy earning a fiver sonny?"
 
Ha! Not brave enough to attend the school for help there!!

My mate has hands like a lady…i think i shall ask him.

Cheers.
 
Ok....

So, when the replacement arrived it was easier as i could see exactly what sort of clip holds it in place. With much fiddling i got my thumb and forefinger on it, pinched it hard and pulled. Bingo.
Bizarre .....i prefer fuel tanks of yesteryear!
 
Those monster steel injection tanks really suck. They messed that up imho when they already had the 916 style pump! Which they used on the plastic tanks. Swings and roundabouts! :)
 
Darren69 said:
Those monster steel injection tanks really suck. They messed that up imho when they already had the 916 style pump! Which they used on the plastic tanks. Swings and roundabouts! :)
Click to expand...

It's a fiddly job but I'll take the steel tank over a plastic one anyday.

It's not like you need to get in there often anyway.
 
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