Evo fork oil

[Rrawlings]

I doubt that we will get weather worth taking it off him in Yorkshire anytime soon but if I can it'd be interesting to try them. It was on Bridgestone S20's he didn't mind them but took a while to warm and weren't great for miles to a back tyre hence trying the roadtec after reading reviews. The other reason he got them was £30 off at biketyresleeds who currently have the same deal but now with m9rr metzelers, pirelli rosso 3 and corsa 2 i believe if anyone is interested.

I've tried reducing pressure but it seems to make things worse with a really sluggish turn in if I go lower. Really they are the only negative thing about my evo really.

 

[chris.p]

All other companies seem to do complete cartridge change, K-Tech don't, they alter the existing unit by opening it and changing the piston kit for a full o0n top unit and change the useless compression adjusters, believe me there is nothing wrong with the conversion, also it was actually done by Chris the boss, so I know it is damn good, as an ex club racer, believe me when I say it completely changes the bikes front end handling for the better.

 

[Luddite]

I've just found out that the Roadtecs I fitted last year have just been superseded by an improved version, the Roadtec 01 SE.

The new version comes out at the end of this month and what this means is that you'll probably find the old Roadtecs discounted to shift stock so you may be able to pick up a bargain if you can wait a couple of weeks. (There's also a new M9 RR out too, so look out for deals on the old version there as well.)

 

[Rrawlings]

Well the M9Rr Metzeler’s were fitted today. Wheels are back on but need to get the front brakes back together and see if I can rid myself of the sponge. Tried a mittyvac and didn’t get on with it so going to try the giant bladder syringe method of forcing it back up to the reservoir. If not it might be tank off and crack the banjo at the abs to see if that gets things going in the right direction.

 

[Luddite]

Looking forward to hearing your views on the Metzelers, Ryan.

Sorry the Mityvac didn't work out for you. Did you first seal the bleed nipple threads with PTFE tape? Without that, the pump draws air in past the threads and you lose the vacuum.

Don't forget to push the pistons fully back into the calipers before you start (to purge the ABS pump). I don't think you should need to disturb the ABS unit itself because, unlike the rear brake, the highest point in the front braking circuit is the master cylinder so any air in the system should rise to that point. Have you tried bleeding at the master cylinder nipple yet?

Keep persevering (both my front and rear brakes are super firm now) and good luck!

 

[Rrawlings]

Tried the master but still vague. I didn’t really want to go down the ptfe route as didn’t want dot4 everywhere. I will try again but the pistons were back when I did it just didn’t feel like it should. Might just bite the bullet with ptfe. Not sure when I will get chance to do it but really want to finish the bike and try the tyres. I will give an update when I have done more but have high hopes for the m9 being superb as the reviews I’ve seen are glowing and the m7 was fantastic

 

[Luddite]

I would definitely recommend taping up the nipples, Ryan. It's not too messy if you take a few precautions.

Remove the pads (to avoid any risk of contamination) and then remove the calipers. Hold the caliper over something to catch any drips.

Before you push the pistons back, use the MityVac to suck out most of the fluid from the reservoir, otherwise there's a danger of fluid spilling out of the reservoir.

Before you remove the nipple, have a pre-taped M6 screw handy to plug the hole. (If you don't have any in your spares box, just pinch one from the bike - the reservoir handlebar clamp screws are M6). Spin the nipple out and quickly replace it with the M6 screw - just two or three turns by hand should be enough to seal it. You shouldn't lose more than a few drops of fluid if you're quick.

When you tape the thread, don't forget to wind it round clockwise so it doesn't come undone when you screw the nipple back in. If any fluid has leaked on the caliper, clean it if straight away to avoid any staining.

I pumped the MityVac up to -50 kpa before cracking open the nipple. It worked so well, I had to keep a really close eye on the reservoir because the fluid was being drawn through so quickly.

Hope it works for you too.

 

[Rrawlings]

Vince thanks I’ll give it a go. You always have the best advice so I’ll trust you.

 

[Luddite]

You flatter me! All I can say is it worked for me.

 

[Rrawlings]

Well finally got out for a ride and I can confirm that a change of fork oil is worth doing and the m9rr metzeler tyres are fabulous. Only managed half an hour before the rain came and I got drenched but spent a nice steady few miles bedding in new Brembo pads and the tyres but an utter revelation. Can’t wait to go for a proper ride out it tips in like a dream and performs how it should. Fingers crossed corona disappears enough for the tt to go ahead as I can’t wait to get the evo on the roads over there now

 

[crawsue]

Evo fork oil.

Been rereading some threads including this one re the Evo Marzocchi forks , although I had mine “K-teched “ a couple of years ago I still feel that they are too firm, the invoice for the work is showing that they used “HPSF -017 “ in the rebuild. I notice in this thread that someone is running SAE 5 …..Unfortunately our technical sage Vince has stopped contributing at the moment, has anyone any experience in this field ? Regards Crawsue.

 

[Dukedesmo]

My Monster forks are 916 Showa units which I took to Ktech for valve kit & re-spring as the springs from the 916 were too firm due to the Monster being a lighter bike.

Ktech used 5w oil in them (they also used 5w in my 916 Ohlins) when they did the job, IIRC they said because it makes them smoother/more progressive?

They work nicely but I found that they would bottom out under extreme braking. I asked Ktech and they advised to add an extra 5 or 10ml of oil to each leg. I did and this solved the bottoming out.

So I guess the oil and the quantity can be used to alter the way the forks work however, if they're just too firm then maybe you need lighter springs?

 

[crawsue]

Unfortunately K-tech only supply springs down to 8.5…which should be spot on for my dressed weight…..can anyone confirm that the HPSF -017 specification is in fact SAE 17 ? It seems an arbitrary spec/ number….?

 

[Mr Gazza]

I just googled HPSF -017 and that specific oil didn't come up but it does seem that the number after HPSF (high performance suspension fluid.) doesn't bear any relationship with the viscosity. So I doubt it is 17w.
I did note that they go down as low as 2.5w and maybe lower, so you shouldn't have any trouble finding a lighter oil.
Best people to ask is going to be K-Tech.

Regarding the "firmness" of your forks. Have you tried adjusting the damping? if indeed you have adjustable damping?

Darren at MCT actually put thicker than standard oil in mine (15W I think) And that certainly made the adjustments more vivid than previously.
I backed off the compression a couple of clicks to make it more comfortable over the Norfolk B-roads and likewise the rebound.
That made it worse and so I called Darren and he said always do more to the rebound than compression. So I backed off the rebound a couple more clicks and that did the trick, it's been fine ever since.
Just wondered if it just needs a little play? Note your current setting before you adjust though.

Edit.. Just found this. https://www.propowermx.co.uk/produc...QF9vfj_iLoKRvmiIy0lKPtsuknXFXM7EaApHCEALw_wcB
Looks like you already have 5w?

 

[crawsue]

Thanks for doing that research Garry,I’ve phoned K-tech this morning and they’ve suggested some rebound adjustments to try….and if it’s still too firm remove some oil. They confirmed that the 8.5 nm springs should be correct for my all-up weight. Annoyingly the factory set up on my compression only Trumpet 1050 st forks gives a much superior ride …..maybe I’m just too demanding….��