I am thinking of changing the dry clutch plates. C
A. Remove the cover.
Remove the six spring retaining bolts (remember to undo each bolt a few turns at a time then move on to the next so they come off evenly).
Remove the pressure plate with the bearing.
Remove the plates, noting the order in which they came off.
Reassembly is the reverse. You should be able to do all this with a set of allen keys.
A. While doing above, get a can of Brake Cleaner and clean all the components. Try not to get on the plates themselves. Check the release bearing in the driven plate is free to rotate, if not it is cheap and it's only a heat fit. Place the plate in boiling water for a few minutes and then drift/tap it out. Fitting is the same: boil the plate, put bearing in fridge for a few hours then tap it in. Take out the pushrod too, and clean with wire wool and WD40. Replace the 2 o-rings. Check the clutch slave cylinder for leaks. They do leak! I think three allen bolts will see this off, but DO NOT press the clutch lever until it's back in place!! Replace the 6 clutch springs a little at a time like removal and don't forget a little Thread Lock on the threads. A simple task but to make it easier get a Haynes Manual. As for the torque settings. There is nothing listed in Haynes so hand tight and a little more should do it. If you need the part number of the bearing, contact Spacemonkey. They can be bought from Bearing Services - they are special order and take about a week. You should also check the "seal" over the clutch piston - it's not a good design but very cheap - about £2.
A. Clutch spring screws - I chose to lock them up. They all go fully home unlike old British bikes where you have to adjust them to make the outer plate lift evenly. I would also put a blob of grease on the little needle roller that lives inside the shaft and supports the cluch pushrod - it makes a real mess if it breaks up.
Remove the six spring retaining bolts (remember to undo each bolt a few turns at a time then move on to the next so they come off evenly).
Remove the pressure plate with the bearing.
Remove the plates, noting the order in which they came off.
Reassembly is the reverse. You should be able to do all this with a set of allen keys.
A. While doing above, get a can of Brake Cleaner and clean all the components. Try not to get on the plates themselves. Check the release bearing in the driven plate is free to rotate, if not it is cheap and it's only a heat fit. Place the plate in boiling water for a few minutes and then drift/tap it out. Fitting is the same: boil the plate, put bearing in fridge for a few hours then tap it in. Take out the pushrod too, and clean with wire wool and WD40. Replace the 2 o-rings. Check the clutch slave cylinder for leaks. They do leak! I think three allen bolts will see this off, but DO NOT press the clutch lever until it's back in place!! Replace the 6 clutch springs a little at a time like removal and don't forget a little Thread Lock on the threads. A simple task but to make it easier get a Haynes Manual. As for the torque settings. There is nothing listed in Haynes so hand tight and a little more should do it. If you need the part number of the bearing, contact Spacemonkey. They can be bought from Bearing Services - they are special order and take about a week. You should also check the "seal" over the clutch piston - it's not a good design but very cheap - about £2.
A. Clutch spring screws - I chose to lock them up. They all go fully home unlike old British bikes where you have to adjust them to make the outer plate lift evenly. I would also put a blob of grease on the little needle roller that lives inside the shaft and supports the cluch pushrod - it makes a real mess if it breaks up.