Bikesure_adrianflux

Weight Watchers winter project

The ditching of the floating caliper question? So I weighed up the two alternatives (of my old set up) and the weight penalty came out as just under 250gms.
I also believe the floating set up gives more controlled braking on slippery surfaces, not that I do any riding on snow any more.
 
both utopia and i have experience of turning ti, not all that easy but doable. i’d be prepared to give it another go on relatively small parts.
 
Well that's good to hear Rob, personally I'm thinking that I've found a firm willing to take on Ti jobs. But pretty expensive just for the labour, I'll see how capable they are later this week when I pick up my adapted spindle.
 
Well today hasn't gone to plan, got to pick up the inner sleeve /bearing surface for the floating caliper bracket(good), so I could finally check out the caliper fixing on the wheel /disc, only to find the caliper fouling the disc fixture (bad). My fault I had put the caliper threads too close to the spindle, calls for pretty drastic action to rectify. Cutting right across the bracket, pull the two sections apart, place a filit inbetween and weld the three pieces back together. So that's the plan, I've done the cutting, and tomorrow it's off to the welder. Next picked up my old Ti spindle after minor surgery to fit new swinging arm. Saves an incredible 350gms, and fits perfectly (good). In conclusion as Meatloaf would say two out of three (may not be great but) ain't bad.IMG_20250121_124521.webp
 
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too much metal in thatfor a weightwatcher anyway, out with the drill and files…IMG_1659.webp
 
You're right Rob I've gone a bit chunky, it's based around 10mm plate. Presently waiting to get it back from the welders. Have taken a step into the unknown, the outer bearing is a self lubricating type, however with inner bearing I've decided to make them in Ali 6082 with hard anodised treatment. The grease nipple gives the means to add lubricant too. Anyone else have any experience with hard anodising?
 
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The Al6082 is roughly what used to be called HE30, so the right sorta stuff for the job.
Your machinist needs to know about the anodising, as the part will shrink slightly during anodising.
On reflection I'd probably remove triangular sections and leave a little more metal in (assuming i got the orientation right),
speedo sensor will need very little strength.*

* I'm not a professional engineer, so at your own risk!
bitza_float_rear.webp
 
I can see your thinking, as I happen to be watch QI, I'd have to say thats quite clever, thanks.
 
The orientation of the webs is right for strength. The wheel will be turning clockwise in this view and the torque rod attaches to the right hand caliper mounting screw.
Here's my suggestion for further simplification and lightening. Why can't the hall sensor hole be between the axle and the caliper, rather than on it's own metal?

hall.webpunder hall.webp
 
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Cos in this case (with a Triumph wheel) the bracket is too close to the arm.
 
Bracket Update.

The revised longer version with holes, pretty much as Rob suggested, OK not CNC more hand made. Holes save 45 gms. IMG_20250209_162454.webp
 
Thanks Rob, but it's you who should take a bow (by which I mean a knotted bit of string).

Re Hard Anodising shrinkage, being a surface treatment it's simply a loss of 15microns from the surfaces. So typically most objects loose 30microns having two sides. The anodised surface also happens to be 15microns deep.
 
Update.

Rear wheel in, no apparent problems except because swinging arm is longer than the original I need to make a new anchor bracket for the caliper stay, just waiting on the material to do that. Then I just need to make the hugger fit.
The total estimated weight saving is 6.4kgs, using bathroom scales. If the estimate is close then I'll be below 161kgs(wet but no fuel). Am hoping to weigh the bike on a friend's scales soon, to get a new bonifide weight to work from.
IMG_20250216_094117.webpIMG_20250216_141159.webp
 
Lovin the eccentric adjusters, I had a metmachex swingarm on my Suzuki GS1000 in the mid 80's, quality bit of kit, and you can sharpen the steering and increase ground clearance by rotating the axle to its bottom position.
 
Well I realise that I'm probably writing just for myself. Anyway it's a lovely day, the Heap's back in one piece, so I went for a brief shake down ride to check for basic blunders/faults, but glad to report the only issue was an intermittent clack from the chain catching a screw securing the scuff guard on the swinging arm. Replaced with countersunk screws hopefully sorted.
 
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