Mark64
UKMOC Member
It comes off a treat, clean the sealant off with some scotchbrite and brake cleaner, I can't remember regarding the crankshaft nut, it's a long time since I changed one
Reg/rec help needed
- Thread starter Ron1000
- Start date
DaveR
Clunkers MC southern rep
You need to take the flywheel off if you're going to change the 'sprag' one way clutch, so that central nut needs to come off. On my S4R, I had to get a deep, over 55mm, socket and used a 'rattle gun' to get it undone. Good luck!
Dave
Dave
Mark64
UKMOC Member
That's correct, I recall that I made a tool to hold the flywheel for removing the crankshaft nut, I used a 3/4 drive heavy duty ratchet and a long pipe, they're proper tight, you'll want some high strength loctite for when you refit the crankshaft nut too, you don't want that coming loose.
I've not tried but you maybe able to change the spring without removing the flywheel? I've only ever done it with the flywheel off (for other reasons).
If you remove the flywheel you'll need a tool to hold it for torqueing it back up as it needs a big torque setting so needs holding securely - don't hold it with a clutch tool on the other side as, despite that it might seem OK, that much torque could break something between.
You need to remove the shift mechanism by undoing the allen bolts holding it to the crankcase (by the gearshift spline), then you can remove the entire lever/mechanism and change the spring on the bench.
NB. scribe/mark the position of the mechanism before removing it because the position is very important - it needs to 'push' far enough to shift whilst at the same time return far enough to engage for the next shift, both up and down.
I think there is such a thing as a gauge that you can use to centre it but if you put it back exactly as it was it should be fine - the only problem is that you can't properly test it until the side cover is on as this supports the shift splined shaft by which time, if it needs adjusting you'll need to remove the cover again - worth refitting without any sealant to test before committing to sealing it IMO.
If you remove the flywheel you'll need a tool to hold it for torqueing it back up as it needs a big torque setting so needs holding securely - don't hold it with a clutch tool on the other side as, despite that it might seem OK, that much torque could break something between.
You need to remove the shift mechanism by undoing the allen bolts holding it to the crankcase (by the gearshift spline), then you can remove the entire lever/mechanism and change the spring on the bench.
NB. scribe/mark the position of the mechanism before removing it because the position is very important - it needs to 'push' far enough to shift whilst at the same time return far enough to engage for the next shift, both up and down.
I think there is such a thing as a gauge that you can use to centre it but if you put it back exactly as it was it should be fine - the only problem is that you can't properly test it until the side cover is on as this supports the shift splined shaft by which time, if it needs adjusting you'll need to remove the cover again - worth refitting without any sealant to test before committing to sealing it IMO.
To add, if you do remove the flywheel then do the shift-test refit before refitting said flywheel, that way you don't have the magnets fighting you when you come to remove the cover again so only takes a few seconds plus, the engine will turn much more freely without the magnets acting on it.
And don't forget to test the shift up/down whilst rotating the engine to check engagement.
Ron1000
Registered
My engine casing paint is in a worse condition than I had first thought + with the road grime and chain lube I have my doubts I’d get it good enough to take paint.
Anybody tried nitromors? I used to use it years ago, I wonder if that would be better. I’d be able to brush it into all the little nooks n crannies.
Anybody tried nitromors? I used to use it years ago, I wonder if that would be better. I’d be able to brush it into all the little nooks n crannies.
900Rebuilder
Registered
Rubbish these days im afraid but may work if you do it multiple times.
Probably better to get it vapour blasted then paint with PJ1 or similar
Probably better to get it vapour blasted then paint with PJ1 or similar
Ron1000
Registered
Vapour blasting! Good idea
Don't waste your time and money on any kind of paint stripper. Acetone is as good as anything, but still takes a few soakings.
Vapour blasting would be perfect and least messy, as it won't be you doing it.
That West Country Windings that are doing your alternator appear to list vapour blasting as a service, so why not get it all done in one place and save a little bit on return postage? Hopefully they will even mask up the glass window before blasting too.
I went there the other day, having never heard of it until DD brought it up. I needed a 6V twin output coil together with some advice.
After I found it hidden up in a confusingly laid out ind. est. they did offer some advice, but had no coils in stock, so I came away empty handed and disappointed.
I probably won't disturb them again.
Vapour blasting would be perfect and least messy, as it won't be you doing it.
That West Country Windings that are doing your alternator appear to list vapour blasting as a service, so why not get it all done in one place and save a little bit on return postage? Hopefully they will even mask up the glass window before blasting too.
I went there the other day, having never heard of it until DD brought it up. I needed a 6V twin output coil together with some advice.
After I found it hidden up in a confusingly laid out ind. est. they did offer some advice, but had no coils in stock, so I came away empty handed and disappointed.
I probably won't disturb them again.
Ron1000
Registered
The stator is already with WCW. I’ve found a local…very local…vapour blaster. Hopefully he replies to my message. 
Nickj
UKMOC Member
Depends on what kind of sealer it is. I usually use a mix of picking the bigger bits off and a bit of shim brass. I did use some solvent once but anything that's good enough to melt or really soften old sealer tends to melt paint too, not used that since except on bare metal cases.