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Oil temp sensor

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RichardDDuke

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Oct 1, 2022
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Bedford
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Other Ducati
An wanting to modify my '94 900ss/Monster console by adding an oil temp gauge (a la 900SP and later models)
Is it just a case of a getting the gauge and the thyrister (and washer), or do I need a new oil strainer for it too ?
Am happy with doing the wiring for it, it's just the two ends I'm concerned about.
 
I have a Translogic dash on my Monster which has a temp gauge/sensor and temp display on the dash, primarily designed to show water temperature but (since it's air cooled) I fitted the sensor to the oil pickup/filter by drilling through it and bolting a 6mm bolt through it, to which the sensor bolts - this gives me a real-time readout of oil temperature on the dash.

To do it, I removed the plastic filter from the (brass) body/bolt and drilled through it and tapped it 6mm, the bolt is then fitted from the inside with sealant and fibre washer and the (ring) thermistor/sender bolted on the outside.

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I have the same Translogic dash on my 916 and have fitted the same oil temp sensor to that, along with a water temp sensor on the cylinder head but added a change-over switch to the gauge so that I can switch between water and oil temperature as there's only one readout on the dash.

You could fit the sensor somewhere else, I originally bolted it to the head but it was giving high and irrelevant readings as what I really wanted was oil temp and the pump pickup seemed the best option.
 
I think it was 2002 onwards that they put a sensor in the strainer plug when the ECU's got a bit more sophisticated and ran a readout on the dash.
Previously the ie models only had a sensor on the inlet rocker cover which the ECU read engine temp from, to manage mixture. This was retained for engine management when the dash sensor came along.

Not sure how the Ducati sensor works, but it seems that the "ring" is only getting the temperature from the thermal mass of the strainer plug itself?
In which case I would blind drill the plug and tap for a copper screw and washers, which will conduct the heat into the sensor better.
Then I'd try and find a plastic cap for the screw to stop it from losing too much heat from the airstream. (Or splash stream if it's raining.)

I guess you could actually drill right through and use a longer copper screw, which would be in contact with the oil itself. Trouble is it would then let oil out if it were removed for whatever reason.

Kato gave me a nifty little temperature gauge that threads into the oil filler hole. It was very hard (read dangerous ) to try and read it on the move, but informative every time I stopped and put my feet down.
I got the general picture after a few rides of different nature and re-fitted the standard filler plug.
What I learned was that my 900 engine takes about 10+ miles to get to operating temp and generally over-cools.
I cover the oil cooler with a big muff in Winter, when it gets down to single figure temps.
 
Last edited:
Mr Gazza said:
I guess you could actually drill right through and use a longer copper screw, which would be in contact with the oil itself. Trouble is it would then let oil out if it were removed for whatever reason.
Click to expand...
This is what did.

Having looked at just drilling a short hole to tap, I decided there wasn't really enough 'meat' on the cap so drilled right through.

I tapped the hole and used a button-head stainless bolt screwed through from the inside with sealant on the threads and a soft washer under the head and then (for belt n' braces) loctited a nut on the outside using another soft washer, leaving enough thread protruding to fit the sensor/ring with a washer either side and a nyloc nut to hold it on.

As above I've done it on both bikes and neither has leaked (or will). As for removing the sensor, just undo the nyloc nut to remove the filter.
 
Dukedesmo said:
This is what I did.

Having looked at just drilling a short hole to tap, I decided there wasn't really enough 'meat' on the cap so drilled right through.
Click to expand...

Fair dinkum.
The head of the plug outwardly looks quite chunky, but they must have bored it quite deep into the head internally to shed a bit of weight and cash in some brass swarf.
 
As it happens, I've got a spare plug/filter from an old engine (though the plastic filter cracked whilst removing).

The plug/cap part (the assembly being hollow inside) is only around 10mm thick/deep and I wasn't comfortable with just drilling & tapping 6-8mm deep, especially as it's brass and therefore soft so the threads might strip. So I went right through and bolted it firmly in place.
 
Thanks for the really useful replies for all of you folks.
I've managed to source the thermister (and washer) along with a gauge, so it looks like I just need the strainer with the tapped hole on the end.
As I've recently started getting an improved pension, I might just splash out and buy a new part to celebrate. Hippy daze 🥳

In the meantime, take care you all, and keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down. 🏍️💨💨
 
Dukedesmo said:
As it happens, I've got a spare plug/filter from an old engine (though the plastic filter cracked whilst removing).

The plug/cap part (the assembly being hollow inside) is only around 10mm thick/deep and I wasn't comfortable with just drilling & tapping 6-8mm deep, especially as it's brass and therefore soft so the threads might strip. So I went right through and bolted it firmly in place.
Click to expand...
Tim,
Thanks for the offer. As I've recently started getting an improved pension, I'll splash out and buy a new part to celebrate, otherwise I'd be continually worried about the plastic filter being cracked 😬
Richard
 
Actually, it's more than just lightly cracked, it likely wouldn't stay on so I wouldn't trust it, luckily I had a spare and managed to modify the others without damage - probably broke because it was heat/oil hardened and didn't like being prised off. I don't know if you can get just the filter?

The new, drilled part looks good and means you keep your old one original if that's important to you.
 
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