900Rebuilder
Registered
3 years! Must have been from Italy.....
Monster 900Sie 50000mile refresh.
- Thread starter Mr Gazza
- Start date
3 years! Must have been from Italy.....
I'm pretty sure that Mark's forks are from a Monster Sie. The aloominum toobs are the exact same length as on my original Sie forks @485.
Nasher, I remember you telling me that Monster forks are 450 and SS are 500. This must be the non-adjustable type?
I've offered the new forks against the original and the axle is a bit further out than the originals, but it's on the side stand and so will be a bit compressed. There's about 15mm max in it.
Time will tell when I get the chance to pop the bike up on the stem stand and measure the fully extended length.
A 1098/848 axle is also needed for this conversion as it doesn't look like the original would work, but I will try. The later axle needs a sleeve nut to fill the forks properly. The sleeve nut might fit the old spindle? Good ol' Nasher supplied an axle and nut with the forks, so all good and thanks again Nasher.
An issue I might have with my older bike, is that I need to fit the speedo drive gearbox on the axle. This is absent on the later models. (Hall sensor rear wheel.)
Initial glances seem to indicate that there will be enough room, fingers crossed.
I stole these puppies from an Aprilia RSV4. Well it was an ebay auction that ended at a totally unsociable time, so I set my alarm and was the only bidder at the end. The pads were more than the callipers!
They use 4 pads per caliper, so that's 1 pad per piston. I guess the theory is that each piston can deliver it's best pressure to the pad? So far not been able to source Ti pins for them, but to be fair the pins are very hard to see.
I've broken a very long tradition and gone for sintered 4HH pads, having used organic for some decades now, I've stuck with EBC though.
Also got another set of sintered for the rear as you shouldn't mix them. This will leave the new organic rear pads spare.. If anyone has the need?
Nasher, I remember you telling me that Monster forks are 450 and SS are 500. This must be the non-adjustable type?
I've offered the new forks against the original and the axle is a bit further out than the originals, but it's on the side stand and so will be a bit compressed. There's about 15mm max in it.
Time will tell when I get the chance to pop the bike up on the stem stand and measure the fully extended length.
A 1098/848 axle is also needed for this conversion as it doesn't look like the original would work, but I will try. The later axle needs a sleeve nut to fill the forks properly. The sleeve nut might fit the old spindle? Good ol' Nasher supplied an axle and nut with the forks, so all good and thanks again Nasher.
An issue I might have with my older bike, is that I need to fit the speedo drive gearbox on the axle. This is absent on the later models. (Hall sensor rear wheel.)
Initial glances seem to indicate that there will be enough room, fingers crossed.
I stole these puppies from an Aprilia RSV4. Well it was an ebay auction that ended at a totally unsociable time, so I set my alarm and was the only bidder at the end. The pads were more than the callipers!
They use 4 pads per caliper, so that's 1 pad per piston. I guess the theory is that each piston can deliver it's best pressure to the pad? So far not been able to source Ti pins for them, but to be fair the pins are very hard to see.
I've broken a very long tradition and gone for sintered 4HH pads, having used organic for some decades now, I've stuck with EBC though.
Also got another set of sintered for the rear as you shouldn't mix them. This will leave the new organic rear pads spare.. If anyone has the need?
Last edited:
David, It's far better to get the tank off and also the filler cap and internal rubber tubes.
The piano wire will just dig in the rubber and stop, or might even puncture it if you got angry enough!
Best to go in from the top as the wire is difficult to get round the 90 degree bend at the bottom. although I don't know if the plastic tanks are configured the same as the metal ones? Also you will displace the blockage to outside the tank rather than into it!
Regarding the Bilt Hamber Deox-C rust eater. I doubt very much it will have any effect on your plastic tank. It comes in a plastic bottle. It eats rust with a veracious appetite but very little else, including sound steel, although they do mention not to use it on plated steel, especially Zinc.
I used a needle on a syringe and so could get it right into the tube. I didn't spill very much at all into the tank that way. Easy to mop out after a little water was sloshed in and then finished off with clutch and brake cleaner which is hygroscopic.
The piano wire will just dig in the rubber and stop, or might even puncture it if you got angry enough!
Best to go in from the top as the wire is difficult to get round the 90 degree bend at the bottom. although I don't know if the plastic tanks are configured the same as the metal ones? Also you will displace the blockage to outside the tank rather than into it!
Regarding the Bilt Hamber Deox-C rust eater. I doubt very much it will have any effect on your plastic tank. It comes in a plastic bottle. It eats rust with a veracious appetite but very little else, including sound steel, although they do mention not to use it on plated steel, especially Zinc.
I used a needle on a syringe and so could get it right into the tube. I didn't spill very much at all into the tank that way. Easy to mop out after a little water was sloshed in and then finished off with clutch and brake cleaner which is hygroscopic.
Last edited:
update.
Managed to escape to the bike shed for long enough to get the Monster up on the front stem stand.
It turns out that the hybrid forks seem to be dimensionally identical (length wise) to my Sie forks. Same tube length, same axle position. There is more stanchion available as the bottom casting is more compact, so whether or not the forks have more travel will remain to be seen. ("Motorcycle Specs" gives both models the same travel @120mm.)
The irony of all this is that the adjustable Showas in my Monster were fully serviced by MCT 3500 miles ago and work better than they ever have in my ownership!
Managed to escape to the bike shed for long enough to get the Monster up on the front stem stand.
It turns out that the hybrid forks seem to be dimensionally identical (length wise) to my Sie forks. Same tube length, same axle position. There is more stanchion available as the bottom casting is more compact, so whether or not the forks have more travel will remain to be seen. ("Motorcycle Specs" gives both models the same travel @120mm.)
The irony of all this is that the adjustable Showas in my Monster were fully serviced by MCT 3500 miles ago and work better than they ever have in my ownership!
yellowfever
UKMOC Member
Yes, right first time, alu tank order is indeed from Italy… company is not exactly undercutting the stereotype….
Thanks Gary, useful advice as ever. I was intending to take the tank off when I get alu one then sort plastic tank out properly once off the bike and keep as a spare. Not sure on exact plastic tank internal geometry and what the differences are from the metal tanks but indeed tank off and fuel pump out would allow for a proper job. Not going there just yet as I want to concentrate on riding every chance I get as only got bike back on the road again last spring, so just sticking to fast easy quick fettling wins for now. Mind you if current winter looks like it’s sticking around/alu tank option looks truly bust I might get tempted to sort it sooner…
Thanks Gary, useful advice as ever. I was intending to take the tank off when I get alu one then sort plastic tank out properly once off the bike and keep as a spare. Not sure on exact plastic tank internal geometry and what the differences are from the metal tanks but indeed tank off and fuel pump out would allow for a proper job. Not going there just yet as I want to concentrate on riding every chance I get as only got bike back on the road again last spring, so just sticking to fast easy quick fettling wins for now. Mind you if current winter looks like it’s sticking around/alu tank option looks truly bust I might get tempted to sort it sooner…
900Rebuilder
Registered
Shame that as my 900 will be a keeper so have an aluminium tank on my radar but will probably just jump on an RR one when it comes up sometime in the future. There's an early Beater one one ebay (or there was) in Japan for around £800 delivered which didnt seem too bad if you have the pennies
It will fit fine.
When I fitted 1198 forks to my 916, I researched this and although I am using a hall effect sensor on the rear disc bolts for an electronic speedo, a front mechanical drive will fit. In fact, I had to fit a 30mm (thickness of the drive) speedo replacement spacer to centre the wheel, shown here;
It fits because the machining for the drive is in the wheel not the forks, the new forks don't have the retainer on the mudguard mount to locate the drive but that is only there for positioning when fitting the wheel, the drive is held in place by being clamped between the forks so, you just need to be careful aligning it before torqueing up the spindle nut.
Thanks Tim.
I think Nasher mentioned a 30mm spacer somewhere along the chats concerning the forks.
It makes absolute sense that the speedo drive should fit, hoping to have a play at the weekend.
I don't think there's a locator on my 900? I'm used to loosely attaching the cable for alignment before nipping the axle up.
I think Nasher mentioned a 30mm spacer somewhere along the chats concerning the forks.
It makes absolute sense that the speedo drive should fit, hoping to have a play at the weekend.
I don't think there's a locator on my 900? I'm used to loosely attaching the cable for alignment before nipping the axle up.
How do you like the new Ducati font?
Paint stripping is proving extremely tedious and I'm not enjoying it!
It seems to be a bit quicker if I warm the tank up with a hot air gun first, then lard the stripper on and leave it about 15-20 minutes. It still always needs two goes to get the persistent patches. Only half way on the spare tank so far!
While the stripper is working I've managed to hoik the front wheel out and drop the fork legs.
The hybrid forks are 3.5mm shorter that the Sie ones, from top to axle centre.
So that's well within a reasonable similarity to get the new ones in the same place as the originals.
As it happens I had dropped the legs through earlier this year to get a bit more trail. It just felt so wobbly and the turn in was nervous. Probably more to do with tyre wear than anything, as that's the only thing that could have changed. I'm 7600 miles in on the tyres so no surprises, even if the tread and profile look good. Metzler Roadtec 01, they were brilliant when new. Debatable whether I re-fit them after re-lacquering the wheels?
First impressions with the forks; the speedo drive fits and seems to put the wheel in the right place with everything hard to the left as it should be. However, I would appear to be in need of a spacer on the right side of the axle. If I push the shoulder up to the wheel bearing to make everything tight, The right had end of the spindle disappears into the fork by about 8mm and then the sleeve nut bottoms out before it has reached the left leg face. An 8mm (approx) spacer on the right side would put it all right, by the looks.
Studying images of 1098 and other axles they seem to come with a large (30mm?) and small spacer, so it would seem to follow that's what I need.
I would of course be extremely grateful if anyone has an unwanted spare I could buy?
Unfortunately while the speedo gearbox fits, the original cable route is blocked by the caliper and it needs to run round below. This will need a longer speedo cable by about 4" at least!
Stumped by that at the moment, but wondering if maybe an SS rev-counter cable would be longer?
I can find various lengths of English speedo and tacho cables, but no idea if the thread on the ends will fit the speedo and gearbox? Probably not!
Club meet in the morning, so further investigations in the afternoon.
Paint stripping is proving extremely tedious and I'm not enjoying it!
It seems to be a bit quicker if I warm the tank up with a hot air gun first, then lard the stripper on and leave it about 15-20 minutes. It still always needs two goes to get the persistent patches. Only half way on the spare tank so far!
While the stripper is working I've managed to hoik the front wheel out and drop the fork legs.
The hybrid forks are 3.5mm shorter that the Sie ones, from top to axle centre.
So that's well within a reasonable similarity to get the new ones in the same place as the originals.
As it happens I had dropped the legs through earlier this year to get a bit more trail. It just felt so wobbly and the turn in was nervous. Probably more to do with tyre wear than anything, as that's the only thing that could have changed. I'm 7600 miles in on the tyres so no surprises, even if the tread and profile look good. Metzler Roadtec 01, they were brilliant when new. Debatable whether I re-fit them after re-lacquering the wheels?
First impressions with the forks; the speedo drive fits and seems to put the wheel in the right place with everything hard to the left as it should be. However, I would appear to be in need of a spacer on the right side of the axle. If I push the shoulder up to the wheel bearing to make everything tight, The right had end of the spindle disappears into the fork by about 8mm and then the sleeve nut bottoms out before it has reached the left leg face. An 8mm (approx) spacer on the right side would put it all right, by the looks.
Studying images of 1098 and other axles they seem to come with a large (30mm?) and small spacer, so it would seem to follow that's what I need.
I would of course be extremely grateful if anyone has an unwanted spare I could buy?
Unfortunately while the speedo gearbox fits, the original cable route is blocked by the caliper and it needs to run round below. This will need a longer speedo cable by about 4" at least!
Stumped by that at the moment, but wondering if maybe an SS rev-counter cable would be longer?
I can find various lengths of English speedo and tacho cables, but no idea if the thread on the ends will fit the speedo and gearbox? Probably not!
Club meet in the morning, so further investigations in the afternoon.
Last edited:
It looks like I need a speedo cable 900mm long, subject to more careful measuring.
I've found that "Motorcycle Products" list their cables by length and I've found one at 900mm for an Yamaha XS 650.
Does anyone know if Japanese and European speedo cables are interchangeable?
I'm not confident that the English Smiths ones would be?
I've found that "Motorcycle Products" list their cables by length and I've found one at 900mm for an Yamaha XS 650.
Does anyone know if Japanese and European speedo cables are interchangeable?
I'm not confident that the English Smiths ones would be?
When I did the 1198 forks to 916 conversion, I ended up with various spacers surplus to my requirements.
Not certain which came from what model etc. but, assuming it's 25mm axle? I have 2 types of spacer; one type is 7.5mm thick and the other is 21mm thick, I think the 7.5 is the one you need (I believe that's what's in my axle but can't measure properly whilst it's fitted), the 21mm I have no idea of origin.
I've actually got 2 of the 7.5mm, you're more than welcome to one if it is of use to you.
That's spot on Tim. I did some measuring yesterday and came up with 7 to 8mm for the spacer @25mm ID, so 7.5 would be right.
I'm also missing a washer under the sleeve nut which will improve things in the right direction again.
Thank you so much for your offer, the thing is, I ordered a spacer and washer from Moto Rapido first thing this morning, so the deed is done now!
Still good to know that I'm right with the 7.5mm though. Thanks again.
The next problem is the speedo cable. As mentioned I've found that an XS650 cable should be the length I need @900mm, but I don't know if Japanese threads will fit my Italian (CEV?) instruments. Venhill will be my next call.
An SS tacho cable is available but not stocked and Craig couldn't tell me the length, so I didn't take the gamble as it would be non-refundable.
I'm also missing a washer under the sleeve nut which will improve things in the right direction again.
Thank you so much for your offer, the thing is, I ordered a spacer and washer from Moto Rapido first thing this morning, so the deed is done now!
Still good to know that I'm right with the 7.5mm though. Thanks again.
The next problem is the speedo cable. As mentioned I've found that an XS650 cable should be the length I need @900mm, but I don't know if Japanese threads will fit my Italian (CEV?) instruments. Venhill will be my next call.
An SS tacho cable is available but not stocked and Craig couldn't tell me the length, so I didn't take the gamble as it would be non-refundable.
Too late then! Sorry about that.
As for the speedo cable, I don't know if it would work but old Moto Guzzis have a long cable as it runs from the speedo to the gearbox - anything between 800 and 1100mm depending on model (and there's one listed as 898mm), check out; https://www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/TheS...cable&Model=&Sort=&NUFilter=New&PriceFilter=2 for length & info.
Also I don't kow if the fittings are the same but they are Italian (Veglia clocks) so maybe?
Thanks for the Gutsi link Tim. I spotted one @915 which might give me a bit more wiggle room, so I'll ask them if they think CEV and Veglia are compatible.
Cheapest speedo cables I' seen so far too. SS tacho cable is about £32!
Hang on to those spacers, Nasher will probably be doing some more hybrid forks in the future, so they might come in handy yet.
As it happens I needed the washer too so the spacer made the order up above their minimum order for post.
Cheapest speedo cables I' seen so far too. SS tacho cable is about £32!
Hang on to those spacers, Nasher will probably be doing some more hybrid forks in the future, so they might come in handy yet.
As it happens I needed the washer too so the spacer made the order up above their minimum order for post.
Well I certainly would never have considered a Vespa or Lambretta part!
I'm game though if you think the fittings would be compatible, and thanks for the heads up.
Looking at the Gutsibits site they seem to measure the length of the inner, so 895mm would be perfect, 900 would be great.
You can see how the radial caliper makes the cable take a much longer route.
I trial fitted an earlier cable guide I have, to give the curve of the cable more room. Having just detached the cable at the head and attached it to the gearbox to get a nice straight measurement of the extra length needed, I found that the curve is much sweeter and I think I can use the original guide.
Sad thing is, it looks like I will have to get new brake lines as well as the nearly new Hel lines appear to be too short!
I'm game though if you think the fittings would be compatible, and thanks for the heads up.
Looking at the Gutsibits site they seem to measure the length of the inner, so 895mm would be perfect, 900 would be great.
You can see how the radial caliper makes the cable take a much longer route.
I trial fitted an earlier cable guide I have, to give the curve of the cable more room. Having just detached the cable at the head and attached it to the gearbox to get a nice straight measurement of the extra length needed, I found that the curve is much sweeter and I think I can use the original guide.
Sad thing is, it looks like I will have to get new brake lines as well as the nearly new Hel lines appear to be too short!
Nasher
Registered
Looking good Gaz.
Unfortunately of course both the bikes I've fitted the forks to have electronic speedos drive off the back wheel.
I'm a bit surprised you need to change the brake lines.
I used the standard lines on both my bikes with no issues.
Although strangely, when I put a set of 1098 Radial Caliper forks in my 999, I had to buy longer brake lines.
Unfortunately of course both the bikes I've fitted the forks to have electronic speedos drive off the back wheel.
I'm a bit surprised you need to change the brake lines.
I used the standard lines on both my bikes with no issues.
Although strangely, when I put a set of 1098 Radial Caliper forks in my 999, I had to buy longer brake lines.
Thanks Nasher.
I'll have a better look at the lines when I drain the system and can offer them up properly. At the moment they look just a bit too short, although I had thought that they ought to fit like yours obviously do.
I'll have a better look at the lines when I drain the system and can offer them up properly. At the moment they look just a bit too short, although I had thought that they ought to fit like yours obviously do.
