I need to remove a front fork leg in order to replace an inner seal so I need to raise the front wheel of my 2008 Monster 696. Can anybody advise/recommend a front stand which would be suitable for this job ? Looking at some front paddock stands on the market they all seem to have the 2 pins but I’m not sure if I need a stand with a single spindle or even a headstock stand. What type of stand is best to buy for this job and other general maintenance tasks on the front end ?
Advice on a front paddock stand please
- Thread starter Foggy
- Start date
stopintime
Registered
Rear stand for stability and the suspend the front under a roof or ladder.
900Rebuilder
Registered
Depending on where your reg/rec is (mine is behind the headstock) you can support the front end off the ground with something here across to 2 step ladders or similar.
Is there an accessible hole in the bottom of the stem/bottom yoke? if so then a pin type stand is best.
Usually they come with different sized pins, I bought a generic stand many years ago and it's fine for all my bikes and whilst I did need to make a larger pin for the 916, both my Monster and Guzzi use the same size.
Bear in mind you'll also need a rear stand/centre stand to keep it stable.
Usually they come with different sized pins, I bought a generic stand many years ago and it's fine for all my bikes and whilst I did need to make a larger pin for the 916, both my Monster and Guzzi use the same size.
Bear in mind you'll also need a rear stand/centre stand to keep it stable.
speedycodger
Registered
I use an ABBA pro stand that attaches to the swinging arm pivot , it lifts the back wheel clear but its easy to chock under the engine to lift the front
clear , as an extra insurance i attach a ratchet strap to the bars and roof joist
clear , as an extra insurance i attach a ratchet strap to the bars and roof joist
Thanks for all the helpful replies guys, amazing response. Unfortunately my garage roof is flat so there is no gap above the rafters to use ratchet straps and I don't think my ladder will take the weight. So I will investigate your other suggestions .... the pin type stand sounds more suitable for my bike so I will look into buying one of them. Thanks for the the photos, much appreciated.
Darren69
Transmaniacon MOC
The Abba stand is a great bit of kit. Lift either front or rear, so great for removing forks swingarm etc which you cant do with paddock stands easily.
They fit most bikes you just need the correct model specific pins. Demon Tweeks had them on offer a while back about £100 iirc.
They fit most bikes you just need the correct model specific pins. Demon Tweeks had them on offer a while back about £100 iirc.
Martin C
UKMOC Member
I’ve removed front fork legs one at a time on both my Monster and ST4 using just a car axle stand under the other side. The Monster has frame bobbins on the top engine mounting bolt, so for stability I also wedged a thick wooden batten under the bobbin on the side being removed.
Strange coincidence but just the other day I noticed that one of my Monster's fork legs is leaking oil, looks like I'll be using that front stand...
That is a strange coincidence ! Mine was noticed by the MOT tester, it's a fine oil mist so luckily it passed. Not sure how many miles I can ride it for though, I'd rather do the job after the summer. Have you fixed a fork seal before ? Just wondering if any special tools are required, eg is a spring compressor necessary or can it be done without one ?Strange coincidence but just the other day I noticed that one of my Monster's fork legs is leaking oil, looks like I'll be using that front stand...
Darren69
Transmaniacon MOC
You could try cleaning under the seal with a Seal Buddy tool or similar. The main issue I found is holding the fork to undo it, but you can loosen the caps while in the bike.
Ron1000
Registered
Another coincidence, I’m going to be taking my fork legs out over winter for new cartridge kits…seals will also get done.
Was planning on using a headstock type.
Only problem is I want to do my head stock bearings, that’ll be tricky.
Was planning on using a headstock type.
Only problem is I want to do my head stock bearings, that’ll be tricky.
Darren69
Transmaniacon MOC
You might need special tools to remove the caps (without damaging) and very likely for the internals?, I'm not sure.
I have replaced fork seals on other forks but not on my Ducatis.
My 916 needed them doing earlier this year, given that the tools for Ohlins forks are expensive and it's not a job I'm likely to do often, I took them over to Ktech to make sure they were done properly and I'll be doing the same with the Monster forks.
I have just run a 'seal mate' around them this morning but no obvious muck came out so I doubt they're fixed - today's ride to East Kirkby will be the proof.
I bought a relatively cheap scissor jack off Fleabay and I wedge a baulk of 3x2 between the front cylinder head and exhaust headers on my Evo (similar frame)…… with a single sided paddock stand it was quite stable. I got Ktech to do the forks.
Returning to the fork seal leak, as above I used the 'seal mate' not expecting much but I'd got it so worth a try (I bought it years ago when I had a leaky Ohlins fork and it did bugger all on that).
Rode to East Kirkby and the fork leg was pretty much oil free, amazed at this I cleaned it really well before returning and now that I'm home (around 120 mile trip) it's as dry as a bone/clean as a whistle so, definitely worth trying as the seal mate is cheap and only takes a couple of minutes to use.
So, for now at least it's fixed, no more oil leak - well, either that or it's stopped leaking because it's all leaked out...
Rode to East Kirkby and the fork leg was pretty much oil free, amazed at this I cleaned it really well before returning and now that I'm home (around 120 mile trip) it's as dry as a bone/clean as a whistle so, definitely worth trying as the seal mate is cheap and only takes a couple of minutes to use.
So, for now at least it's fixed, no more oil leak - well, either that or it's stopped leaking because it's all leaked out...
That's an idea, I'll look into that. Cheers.
I didn't know about the ABBA stand, looks ideal thanks (and Darren !) ….. I’m going to order one. I just need to locate the swinging arm pivot for the locating pin … any ideas ?
For anyone that might be interested, this fork seal has completely stopped leaking (and I don't think it's empty) and my diagnosis is a strange one.
I have a fork travel indicator on this leg, essentially it's a yellow plastic ring with a groove that's held in place with a large 'O' ring and it was supplied by Ktech when they serviced these forks some years ago (it's a posh alternative to a cable-tie).
It basically stays in place on the fork leg to show you how far the fork has compressed and, I suppose it has it's uses especially when setting up the preload etc. though after the years mine have been set up without any alteration, I don't really need it.
Returning to the leak, what I think may have happened is that on the ride previous to me noticing the leak, I was riding quite 'enthusiastically' on a road that I'm not overly familiar with and that has a questionable surface quality with lot's of rough spots and potholes. I duly hit a pothole fairly hard that bottomed out the suspension. No big deal and no harm done (I thought) but I'm thinking that, in bottoming out the suspension the travel indicator, which is about 4-5mm thick has jammed into the seal and, either introduced some dirt or even 'folded' the lip of the seal inwards? because there was a decent amount of oil that had exited the seal but, after running a 'seal mate' around it a couple of times the leak has completely stopped.
To add, I've had a couple of sets of these Showa forks and never, even after many years service had a leak, unlike the Ohlins on my 916 which have, twice become incontinent and, maybe it's now time to get them serviced anyway as it's been a good few years since they were last done but I'd rather do them in my own time than be forced to do it due to leakage.
Anyway, if my theory is correct then there's a moral to this story which is; if fitting a fork travel indicator try to find a thinner/softer one, maybe a thin cable tie that would be less likely to get stuck into your seals than the rigid plastic version that I had (now removed).
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That's interesting.
I've never bothered with a travel indicator myself. It would be especially redundant on the '77 Triumph as the seals leave a tide mark anyway!
Hopefully the new seals I'm fitting this weekend will stop that and keep the oil in.
The service interval on most modern forks is a max of 16000 miles. That should be regarded as an absolute max and should also include regular fork oil changes.
Don't ignore the rear shock either, you should go to 16000 miles with those, but remember, you can't change the oil and/or gas yourself, so a much shorter service interval will be no bad thing.
I had a close call with the Zero forks and shock. Zero is surprisingly coy about service details on their Showa suspension. Even the dealers can't get any info from Zero, so I asked Darren at MCT. He told me the 16000 mile figure and so I popped them out and took them all down to him straight away @ about 18000 miles!
He said that another 1000 or so miles would have rendered the shock scrap as metal to metal contact had already just begun on the rod. The gas was depleted and there wasn't much oil left either, but he saved it. I wish I'd got round to asking him sooner.
The forks were not a lot better, needing new bushes among the routine stuff that gets changed. So it wasn't a cheap service, but a lot cheaper than not having one!!
I've kept on top of the Monster's forks and shock, they work beautifully. I must find out what the recommended oil change interval is.
The Showas on the Zero are interesting, they have the spring in one leg and all the damping in the other, but they do work a treat with a very plush but controlled ride.
It's interesting comparing suspension from 1977, 2000 and 2020.... You have to make allowances for the old Triumph!!
BTW, I think you will have to allow for shorter service time with the Ohlins. They use much lighter seals in an effort to reduce friction, so they are known to not last so long.
I've never bothered with a travel indicator myself. It would be especially redundant on the '77 Triumph as the seals leave a tide mark anyway!
Hopefully the new seals I'm fitting this weekend will stop that and keep the oil in.
The service interval on most modern forks is a max of 16000 miles. That should be regarded as an absolute max and should also include regular fork oil changes.
Don't ignore the rear shock either, you should go to 16000 miles with those, but remember, you can't change the oil and/or gas yourself, so a much shorter service interval will be no bad thing.
I had a close call with the Zero forks and shock. Zero is surprisingly coy about service details on their Showa suspension. Even the dealers can't get any info from Zero, so I asked Darren at MCT. He told me the 16000 mile figure and so I popped them out and took them all down to him straight away @ about 18000 miles!
He said that another 1000 or so miles would have rendered the shock scrap as metal to metal contact had already just begun on the rod. The gas was depleted and there wasn't much oil left either, but he saved it. I wish I'd got round to asking him sooner.
The forks were not a lot better, needing new bushes among the routine stuff that gets changed. So it wasn't a cheap service, but a lot cheaper than not having one!!
I've kept on top of the Monster's forks and shock, they work beautifully. I must find out what the recommended oil change interval is.
The Showas on the Zero are interesting, they have the spring in one leg and all the damping in the other, but they do work a treat with a very plush but controlled ride.
It's interesting comparing suspension from 1977, 2000 and 2020.... You have to make allowances for the old Triumph!!
BTW, I think you will have to allow for shorter service time with the Ohlins. They use much lighter seals in an effort to reduce friction, so they are known to not last so long.