Ducati 1000 DS custom build - Page 4

Mr Gazza · 09-03-2023, 09:57 AM

There's usually at least a hose pipe at the moto cross tracks, so most of the grime should just slide off that high finish.

Jam911 · 06-03-2023, 06:56 PM

Shiny though !!

Darren69 · 07-03-2023, 12:43 PM

Is clear anodize possible? I've seen some powder coating that looks like polished metal. Both options probably not DIY though and may be costly?

Bitza · 08-03-2023, 07:06 AM

Polished foot pegs, well what's to say, you're certainly putting the effort in, just remember to take a photo when you finish.

Mark64 · 07-03-2023, 05:40 PM

Got to be really dedicated to keep it that clean, very impressive.

Albie · 11-03-2023, 07:44 PM

Looking great again. I have a new project at work soon. An elefant with st3 engine. Looking forward to that.
Keep up the good work

buzzer · 12-03-2023, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Albie

Looking great again. I have a new project at work soon. An elefant with st3 engine. Looking forward to that.
Keep up the good work

that will be an interesting build!

One of the things that was missing on the bike when I bought it was a gear lever. No problem I though… until I saw the price! so I decided to make one, and while I was on, make it slightly longer to suit my big feet. I took the one off my other bike as a pattern. I milled it out of a solid piece of alloy plate, and then hand filed it all to shape, and gave it a polish, I was quite pleased with the result!

buzzer · 13-03-2023, 04:44 PM

out in the daylight for the first time in a while ;D

buzzer · 16-03-2023, 09:08 AM

One of the things I wanted on this build was a clean looking rear end. I struggled to find a rear light that was suitable, so in the end I have fitted three 10mm superbrite LED’s as a rear light, and used a resister and diode so its bright and then brighter to act as a stop light.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6Mc2fn0_Kc

buzzer · 19-03-2023, 12:32 PM

I have made a few similar Hall Effect ignition pickups in the past and they have worked brilliantly. This is a refinement on those. This time I have used an alloy cam wheel and put the magnets directly into that, rather than use a separate wheel. the magnets are 3mm as opposed to the 4mm ones I have used in the past, lets hope they are OK! I also swapped out the allen bolts for some none magnetic A4 ones just in case it picked those up.

Previously I have had a small discrepancy in the timing cylinder to cylinder, which is OK as I can compensate for that in the Ignitech software... But it irritated me that I had to do that! I put it down to my rotary table that is not the best and only measures degrees and its difficult to get the holes for the sensors precisely 135 degrees apart. This this time I borrowed a mates table that is very accurate and can measure to minutes. It was a pleasure to use such a wonderful piece of quality kit! Making the pickup plate took some time, probably the most accurate work I have done in a while!

I am not sure i needed the heat sink, but it looked aesthetically pleasing so I used it.

Dukedesmo · 19-03-2023, 02:05 PM

Nice, not sure if applicable on DS motors? but on the old 2V it would get rid of the wasted spark plus avoid having to remove the case cover/alternator/drain the oil for any servicing.

buzzer · 14-04-2023, 04:02 PM

I finished the throttle off... I had to make the adjusters as they needed to be a custom size. I also used cycle gear cable as the nice thing about it is the outer wire is longitudinal, which has several advantages, the one being that you can cut it so the inner liner can extend into the adjusters and into the throttle which makes the entire run of the inner cable within the liner. I was very pleased with the light action, and only a 1/4 of a turn closed to open. We all know a fast action throttle adds 20 BHP ;D

I know that I should use suppressed leads, but I prefer to use copper cored ones. they are easy to make up and you can make them to the spot on length. I have had that crimp tool 50 years!

one of the things I wanted to do was get rid of the rubber frame bungs… so I turned up some alloy ones. I needed some alloy bar, so I popped into my local metal recyclers… he had several skips of alloy round bar and machined square and oblong billets, all different sizes… many marked on the end with the material specification! They were just about to be taken away so I had to be quick, I really had to restrain myself though, it was like Christmas had come early!

buzzer · 15-04-2023, 06:27 PM

Things don't always go to plan... I tried to starts it... I had a spark, and lots of backfires, but it would not run. I checked a few things and came to the conclusion it was the pickups... I wasn't sure if it was the actual hall sensors, or the magnets and spacing. I decided to try the magnets and spacing first, and it turned out to be that. not sure if it was the strength of the magnets, or the spacing (I suspect it was the spacing) but either way I had to re design the rotor. soon as I did this, it fired up and settled to a nice tickover. I also breathed a sigh of relief as I had put a lot of effort into the exhaust and didn't know what it would sound like! To me it sounded awesome! here is a short video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4z1kqUoEVk

buzzer · 17-04-2023, 09:06 AM

the fuel tap proved to be a challenge. It couldn’t go on the tank, but I also didn’t want to on show. In the end I made a small bracket and mounted it out of sight.

I popped into the paint supplier where my mate works… he persuaded me to try some new lacquer which he said the customers were raving about… I reluctantly agreed to try it. Although I had prepped the tank, I thought I would try it on the mudguard first… I am glad I did! It was easy enough to spray, and gave a nice gloss from the gun, BUT it took almost two hours before it was dust free… That may be ok in a heated, dust free paint booth, but in my garage its a distinct disadvantage. So its back to what I know and I went back for some of the formula I always use!

utopia · 17-04-2023, 11:01 AM

Ah, orange. I was wondering what colour you were going to paint it.

Oddly, I found myself thinking that maybe you ought to hydro-dip that real carbon fender extender in fake carbon.
In fact I wouldn't mind betting that you've already considered it yourself.

Top notch work throughout, but we have come to expect that by now.

09-03-2023, 09:57 AM	#1
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,834	There's usually at least a hose pipe at the moto cross tracks, so most of the grime should just slide off that high finish. __________________

07-03-2023, 12:43 PM	#3
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,026	Is clear anodize possible? I've seen some powder coating that looks like polished metal. Both options probably not DIY though and may be costly? __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

08-03-2023, 07:06 AM	#4
Bitza Bronze Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Poole Bike: M900ie Posts: 470	Polished foot pegs, well what's to say, you're certainly putting the effort in, just remember to take a photo when you finish. __________________ Bitza

11-03-2023, 07:44 PM	#6
Albie Fanactical volunteer Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kent Bike: M900 Posts: 9,033	Looking great again. I have a new project at work soon. An elefant with st3 engine. Looking forward to that. Keep up the good work __________________ http://albies93m900.blogspot.co.uk/

13-03-2023, 04:44 PM	#8
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	out in the daylight for the first time in a while ;D __________________ check out my blog! www.jtccc.wordpress.com

06-03-2023, 06:56 PM	#2
Jam911 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Stratford Upon Avon Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 288	Shiny though !!

07-03-2023, 05:40 PM	#5
Mark64 Bronze Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Hondon de los Frailes Bike: S4r Posts: 287	Got to be really dedicated to keep it that clean, very impressive.

16-03-2023, 09:08 AM	#9
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	One of the things I wanted on this build was a clean looking rear end. I struggled to find a rear light that was suitable, so in the end I have fitted three 10mm superbrite LED’s as a rear light, and used a resister and diode so its bright and then brighter to act as a stop light. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6Mc2fn0_Kc __________________ check out my blog! www.jtccc.wordpress.com

19-03-2023, 12:32 PM	#10
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	I have made a few similar Hall Effect ignition pickups in the past and they have worked brilliantly. This is a refinement on those. This time I have used an alloy cam wheel and put the magnets directly into that, rather than use a separate wheel. the magnets are 3mm as opposed to the 4mm ones I have used in the past, lets hope they are OK! I also swapped out the allen bolts for some none magnetic A4 ones just in case it picked those up. Previously I have had a small discrepancy in the timing cylinder to cylinder, which is OK as I can compensate for that in the Ignitech software... But it irritated me that I had to do that! I put it down to my rotary table that is not the best and only measures degrees and its difficult to get the holes for the sensors precisely 135 degrees apart. This this time I borrowed a mates table that is very accurate and can measure to minutes. It was a pleasure to use such a wonderful piece of quality kit! Making the pickup plate took some time, probably the most accurate work I have done in a while! I am not sure i needed the heat sink, but it looked aesthetically pleasing so I used it. __________________ check out my blog! www.jtccc.wordpress.com

19-03-2023, 02:05 PM	#11
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,844	Nice, not sure if applicable on DS motors? but on the old 2V it would get rid of the wasted spark plus avoid having to remove the case cover/alternator/drain the oil for any servicing. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

14-04-2023, 04:02 PM	#12
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	I finished the throttle off... I had to make the adjusters as they needed to be a custom size. I also used cycle gear cable as the nice thing about it is the outer wire is longitudinal, which has several advantages, the one being that you can cut it so the inner liner can extend into the adjusters and into the throttle which makes the entire run of the inner cable within the liner. I was very pleased with the light action, and only a 1/4 of a turn closed to open. We all know a fast action throttle adds 20 BHP ;D I know that I should use suppressed leads, but I prefer to use copper cored ones. they are easy to make up and you can make them to the spot on length. I have had that crimp tool 50 years! one of the things I wanted to do was get rid of the rubber frame bungs… so I turned up some alloy ones. I needed some alloy bar, so I popped into my local metal recyclers… he had several skips of alloy round bar and machined square and oblong billets, all different sizes… many marked on the end with the material specification! They were just about to be taken away so I had to be quick, I really had to restrain myself though, it was like Christmas had come early! __________________ check out my blog! www.jtccc.wordpress.com

15-04-2023, 06:27 PM	#13
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	Things don't always go to plan... I tried to starts it... I had a spark, and lots of backfires, but it would not run. I checked a few things and came to the conclusion it was the pickups... I wasn't sure if it was the actual hall sensors, or the magnets and spacing. I decided to try the magnets and spacing first, and it turned out to be that. not sure if it was the strength of the magnets, or the spacing (I suspect it was the spacing) but either way I had to re design the rotor. soon as I did this, it fired up and settled to a nice tickover. I also breathed a sigh of relief as I had put a lot of effort into the exhaust and didn't know what it would sound like! To me it sounded awesome! here is a short video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4z1kqUoEVk __________________ check out my blog! www.jtccc.wordpress.com

17-04-2023, 09:06 AM	#14
buzzer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Wolverhampton Bike: M900 Posts: 392	the fuel tap proved to be a challenge. It couldn’t go on the tank, but I also didn’t want to on show. In the end I made a small bracket and mounted it out of sight. I popped into the paint supplier where my mate works… he persuaded me to try some new lacquer which he said the customers were raving about… I reluctantly agreed to try it. Although I had prepped the tank, I thought I would try it on the mudguard first… I am glad I did! It was easy enough to spray, and gave a nice gloss from the gun, BUT it took almost two hours before it was dust free… That may be ok in a heated, dust free paint booth, but in my garage its a distinct disadvantage. So its back to what I know and I went back for some of the formula I always use! __________________ check out my blog! www.jtccc.wordpress.com

17-04-2023, 11:01 AM	#15
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,545	Ah, orange. I was wondering what colour you were going to paint it. Oddly, I found myself thinking that maybe you ought to hydro-dip that real carbon fender extender in fake carbon. In fact I wouldn't mind betting that you've already considered it yourself. Top notch work throughout, but we have come to expect that by now.