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Members: 676 | Total Threads: 50,945 | Total Posts: 519,467 Currently Active Users: 897 (0 active members) Please welcome our newest member, Humph |
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06-02-2024, 08:06 PM | #76 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,981
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Good find dunf, you can always grow new skin and eyeballs.
Teensy bit of progress this evening. I tried some stainless wire wool. left over from exhaust packing, on the fuel cap ribbed ring. It's brightened it up a lot more and evened the colour up, so this could be the way forward. I like stainless for this better than steel wool as it doesn't leave lots of little bits everywhere that go brown! Also tried an idea on the broken zip pull tag on my Mandarina Ducks. This definitely has legs and I'll try and do this on my jacket too. I know it does let a cat out of the bag, but there will soon be some news.
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07-02-2024, 03:23 PM | #77 |
Transmaniacon MOC
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Sutton In Ashfield
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 6,095
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Keyrings always make good broken zippers!
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Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage |
11-02-2024, 09:31 PM | #78 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,981
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Progress is slow with the little nibbles I take at it when I can. I think we're in for a long haul! I keep finding little extra jobs I want to do.
I've got the filler cap where I want it now. I polished the outer ring and it's got enough twinkle now. The gold on the lid is a little marked, but it's way too daunting to think about taking it apart to re-paint it. All those fiddly little springs and pins! It will get Ti screws when I get some money. The two tanks are just about ready for primer, with all the filling now done. It remains to be seen if I have enough air to do a decent job, might have to rig another tank. A job I can do without spending anything is to sort the centre stand, so I got down and dirty with it. I removed the rear brake torque arm and "S" special under mudguard extension. Noting the spacers, I removed the bottom footrest hanger bolts both sides and the torque rod bracket. I worked out the spacers needed to fit with the centre stand and managed to find some the correct thickness. The stand has already been fitted to my SS when it underwent some fettling so I'm pretty deft at getting it on and off. Left hand bracket goes on first and is bolted up tight-ish. The insert that takes the bolt for the breather hose guide has to come out of the right hand side. Loosen the bolt, give it a tap inwards and then jiggle it out with the insert on the bolt. It's a kind of expanding rawlbolt type of thing. The right hand bracket remains assembled onto the stand complete with spring and then feeds onto the left hand pivot and into place on the right side. It's fun jiggling all the bolts into place, but not too difficult with patience. A long bolt goes right through the rear of the crankcases and stand brackets. I need a couple of easy mods. The assistor arm hits the left silencer, but not by much. I need to move it outwards by 15mm to clear it. Clearance from the back tyre is tight and I'll grind out the stand crossbar/brace and weld a plate back in to give some more comfortable room there, so I can fit a new tyre or chain and still have some room. I had hoped to keep the "S" under guard but there's not enough room for that, so I've abbreviated the original in order to keep what of it I can and maybe protect the stand a bit, it will also keep the thread holes for the mounting screws nice and clean if I have screws in them. Don't worry I have a brand new intact one in the cupboard. I tried to keep the long leg on the left to help keep chain goo off the tyre, but had to cut it off after a try fit anyway. It's easy to get the bike on and off the stand so I'm well pleased with it so far. I could never understand why centre stands went out of fashion. Is it just Ducati or have they all stopped fitting them? Used to be that the side stand was the extra and the centre stand was standard and essential equipment. I'm looking forward to parking the bike in the workshop and taking much less room than on the lean. Also good for lubing the chain in the field and wheel removal should it be needed in an emergency. I should be able to get more petrol in the tank too if I fill it level on the stand. (It'll never catch on! )
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Last edited by Mr Gazza; 11-02-2024 at 09:37 PM.. |
12-02-2024, 08:14 AM | #79 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: Beeston
Bike: M900
Posts: 329
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Got a centre stand thats going on my 900 - ok weighs a bit more but saves so much aggro when cleaning and oiling the chain etc that its worth it imho
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Ducati Monster 900 - Yamaha tdr125 & dt200wr - Ford GPW |
19-02-2024, 09:57 PM | #80 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,981
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The tanks still sit on the bench waiting for primer. I have to figure out a way to make a polyethene tent in the workshop and still be able to get at everything.
upload image The 4 pad calipers are try fitted to the forks and look good without being too different to the original Goldlines. The pistons are a little bigger and all the same size rather than two big and two smaller ones. Each piston has it's own little pad. Not as sexy as the radial ones I had, but should be just as effective and retain the original "S" forks. The speedo cable route seems to be compromised by these though, like the radials did. But luckily I have the XS650 one and it solves the problem. The original cable and Goldlines were not brilliant so it seems. There is a witness on the left caliper where it rubbed and the cable has taken a set in a strange "S" curve where the caliper pushed it out of line. Not ideal from new! Studying the speedo gearbox when I rotate the wheel revealed that the Ti disc bolts do actually touch it. It was serendipitous that I fitted button head bolts when I got the Arashi discs, because they cleared everything nicely, but standard height bolts would have fouled it as the disc carrier is thicker than the Brembos. I've now got new discs as the Arashis are below 4mm thick now. I couldn't find Arashi replacements in the UK and have been caught with duty from China before, so sourced Rezo discs which seem to be identical in every way to the Arashis except for price and also that they have counterbored bolt holes which is again serendipitous as it means I can use my Ti bolts without fouling the dratted speedo gearbox.. Getting there! I started to draw up a list of bolt sizes for Ti replacements and looking at the cap screws with the clumsily broached Allen heads and raised letters, I realised that the teenzy letters were A2-70. So I got to work tidying the heads up with my standard format. Best way to hold the screws is in a drill chuck. Then I present them to my sanding disc with the drill turning. This gives a nice even grind very quickly. About 1.5 seconds actually. upload pic Obviously it's a bit scratchy straight off the sander, but flat.. Repeat this on a stitched mop with Blue soap for few more seconds and it saves buying new screws. https://metalpolishingsupplies.co.uk...BoClxYQAvD_BwE Ready to go now and very long itch scratched. Finished my Ti shopping list and sent an order off to RaceTi https://www.raceti.com/ Also ordered a pair of BT023 from M&P to go on the wheels when they are re-lacquered. I've drained the brake fluid and will measure the lines for the 4 pads and order more Hel lines from Motorcycle Products. This is the best deal I've seen for custom Hel lines. https://www.motorcycleproducts.co.uk...lines/1/023803 That will be the budget just about gone for the time being, till the next payday. I've ground out the centre stand and made a patch to weld on. Also fitted a small tube in the top to be welded. This is to guarantee that the legs don't fold inwards off the pivots due to any weakness caused by my grinding. I remember reading about BMW stands failing and locking the back wheels back in the 70's. There were a few fatalities as I remember, including at least one police rider.. Sticks in ones mind!
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Last edited by Mr Gazza; 19-02-2024 at 10:03 PM.. |
20-02-2024, 08:17 AM | #81 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: Beeston
Bike: M900
Posts: 329
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I get titanium bolts from RSR who sponsor this forum and also give a UKMOC discount
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Ducati Monster 900 - Yamaha tdr125 & dt200wr - Ford GPW |
20-02-2024, 08:35 AM | #82 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,981
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Well that's news to me.
I'd be interested to know how they sponsor this forum. (They don't by the way who told you they do?)
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20-02-2024, 12:38 PM | #83 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: Beeston
Bike: M900
Posts: 329
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They were mentioned a while back as sponsorship (new) so I asked them about the discount which they apply to all web orders.
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Ducati Monster 900 - Yamaha tdr125 & dt200wr - Ford GPW |
20-02-2024, 01:16 PM | #84 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,981
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Mm! They showed an initial interest, but never got back to me with a gif for a banner ad.
I might give them a nudge.
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20-02-2024, 01:30 PM | #85 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: County Durham
Bike: Other Ducati
Posts: 43
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Last edited by iconic944ss; 20-02-2024 at 01:58 PM.. |
21-02-2024, 08:32 AM | #86 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: Beeston
Bike: M900
Posts: 329
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Hey they give discount so why not
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Ducati Monster 900 - Yamaha tdr125 & dt200wr - Ford GPW |
21-02-2024, 08:34 AM | #87 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: Beeston
Bike: M900
Posts: 329
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Lovely! RSR were not able to supply calliper mount bolts so I'll check them out. They could do early Monster Marzocchi but not the 916 Showa type which have a narrower head.
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Ducati Monster 900 - Yamaha tdr125 & dt200wr - Ford GPW |
21-02-2024, 10:55 PM | #88 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,981
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The Ti bolts, nipples and axle nut were delivered this morning from RaceTi.
I also got an email from the carrier to say that they would soon have the Tyres from M&P!! (I ordered those a day before the Ti bits!) I've fitted and weighed all but a couple of the Ti bits. All put in with Moly grease on the threads as I do with all nuts and bolts, but especially important with Titanium to prevent it galling and making expensive trouble! Total weight saving on what I fitted today is 147g of which 77g is unsprung. Comparing callipers, the Goldlines are 948g each including very worn organic pads. The Brembo P4 four pads are 1011g each with new sintered pads piled on top. I think the sintered pads account for most of the difference as they are mostly metal. So I've gained 126 grams there, but saved 77g unsprung, so I'm up 49g on unsprung but hopefully with a tangible gain in brake power. I haven't taken into account the Ti disc bolts yet, so there's a chance to get back that 49g. Of course new tyres are considerably heavier than worn ones, especially all weather sports touring tyres, but new tyres just make the whole bike feel lighter and newer, so well worth it. I remember Capo compiling a list of tyre weights and even comparing worn with new, but he was a good deal more obsessed than me. He did manage to hulk about 6 stone off his S4R though. Also dropped the centre stand into my cousin for welding and bending. Interesting to see if I can save most of it's weight with the rear brake parts that I'm shedding. Haven't dared put it on the scales yet!
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22-02-2024, 02:02 AM | #89 | |
No turn left unstoned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: leicester
Bike: M750
Posts: 4,561
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Quote:
He was certainly obsessed with shedding weight. He once got me to make him a titanium rivet to reassemble his seat latch after he had replaced its steel backplate with a hand cut titanium item. I do miss his boyish grin when we addressed such issues. We once slung his bike from the roof trusses of my garage via a pair of electronic balances. His S4R clocked around 145kg ... again if memory serves. My 750 did 165kg, though its lost 2 or 3 more since then. Gotta say though, ultra lightweight wheels are a revelation. My carbon Dymags were even lighter than Capo's mag-alloy Marchesinis and the difference they made was startling. A triple whammy as they reduce unsprung weight, rotational inertia and gyroscopic effect all into the same bargain. A big surprise to me was the effect of the reduced rotational inertia which had a serious influence on the bike's acceleration as they spun up much more easily. It was really noticeable as soon as I took the bike out. I wasn't expecting that. |
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22-02-2024, 09:29 AM | #90 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,981
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Yes that is quite a Monster, I wonder if we still have visiting rights?
I'm going to contend the gyroscopic effect that you mention in a playful way, as I don't fully understand the details of the principle. Does the weight of the gyro have an influence or is it the speed of rotation? Motorcycle steering is initiated by interference to the gyro's procession and if the effect was reduced by weight then I think you would have noticed more effort required to initiate a turn and overcome the bike's mass? Whereas I think you have said the reverse in the past? I would also posit that the effect has been increased, (or remains the same?) if the major weight is now at the periphery (the tyre) relatively speaking, The central part, (the wheel.) having a lesser effect? That brings diameter into the equation too come to think of it. There's a nice think for you if you fancied a think and couldn't think of a think..
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