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31-03-2021, 02:02 PM | #76 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,980
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31-03-2021, 02:15 PM | #77 |
Dismantled
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: East Molesey
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 2,247
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Think Kaemna still do them also podium racing ?
Mine if I remember came from Bursi or more likely Barni racing without looking through my records Remember Front axles are very much the same across models so something being sold for 999 or 998 will fit Monster/s 600 thru 1000
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"Political correctness is just intellectual colonialism and psychological fascism for the creation of thought crime" Last edited by Kato; 31-03-2021 at 02:22 PM.. |
31-03-2021, 04:39 PM | #78 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,980
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Cheers Kato, it would be a 17mm rear that I'd be after, plus about 10mm longer overall. But I might be tempted by a front as well if the price was right.
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31-03-2021, 05:16 PM | #79 |
Dismantled
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: East Molesey
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 2,247
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Rears if remember correctly were made of 7068 which was designed as a higher strength alternative to 7075
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"Political correctness is just intellectual colonialism and psychological fascism for the creation of thought crime" |
12-04-2021, 01:02 PM | #80 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,518
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I haven't touched the M1000 for a week or so.
I took last week off work hoping to get a lot done, but was apparently putting in a complete new family bathroom! Before that I did get some jobs done, but the list gets longer every time I look at it. Regarding the handlebar conversion. I neglected to take any images before I started, so the best before image I have is below. The standard top yoke (30mm off set) and the Renthal bars that had been fitted by a previous owner. I didn't like these, partly because they were too high, and partly because the straight sections were so short that the master cylinders were fitted slightly 'round the bend', and so the levers were not parallel to the grips. I decided my best option was to change the top yoke for one designed for clip-ons, and the most readily available with a 30mm offset and correct clamp size was an ST2/3/4 one. The adaptors mentioned earlier in the thread turned up from Darren, and I was really impressed with the quality, so fitted them with a pair of aftermarket Clip-ons I had in my stash of parts. But, no fault of Darrens, after I looked at them I was wondering if I actually liked them. With the clip-ons fitted they make the top yoke area look very bulky/busy, and of course that's the bit you see most of apart from the clocks when actually riding the bike. Then I took the front wheel clamp off and discovered the lock to lock steering movement was restricted by quite a lot as the clip-ons now clouted the tank before the lock stop adjusters ran out of adjustment. I could of course have put some longer lock stop screws in, but having to move my bikes around in the garage a lot I didn't like the idea of severely reduced steering.
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. Last edited by Nasher; 12-04-2021 at 01:27 PM.. |
12-04-2021, 01:10 PM | #81 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,518
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I'd purchased a pair of ST2/3/4 bars anyway, so decided to try them.
Unfortunately neither they or the top yoke have any facility to mount the clockset. So I made up these adaptors by taking measurements off the 'Darren' adaptors, then turned down some M8 stainless bolts and drilled and tapped the ends to accept the standard rubber mounts. It's personal choice I know, but even without the steering angle restriction I really prefer the look of the ST bars: They end up only @1/2" higher than the clip-ons and adaptors and the lock stops could be adjusted back to the standard position. It's also much easier to get to the suspension adjustments. Nasher.
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. Last edited by Nasher; 12-04-2021 at 01:33 PM.. |
12-04-2021, 01:34 PM | #82 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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Nice work on the adapters. That ST bar arrangement looks really neat - proper factory
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12-04-2021, 01:53 PM | #83 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,518
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The other job I'd got done before Bathroomgate was changing the swingarm and shock.
The M1000ie DS was a very basic bike when supplied new, with non-adjustable forks, basic rear shock, and Steel swingarm. I purchased an Aluminium swingarm from EBAY US, advertised as for an ST3, although their spec must have been different as I couldn't find any UK ST3 images with an Ali arm. I unfortunately can't use my existing Hyperpro shock in the M1000 as it's too long being meant for a hoop suspension Monster, so was looking for another option in 305mm length. The position of the breather box mounted in the frame on the M1000 really limits option for a shock with a piggyback reservoir, most Ducati and aftermarket ones have the reservoir around the side of the shock when fitted, which just wouldn't work with the M1000.
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. |
12-04-2021, 02:07 PM | #84 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,518
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That left the option of a remote reservoir shock, but at that point I started to worry about the amount of money I'm spending before selling some parts and my M900 I have for sale.
I discovered that an S4 piggy back reservoir rear shock has the reservoir in just the right place, and picked up this standard Sachs unit on EBAY for very little:
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. |
12-04-2021, 02:10 PM | #85 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,980
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Just thinking out loud and without the relevant bits in sight, but I wonder if it would be possible to make a pair of dropper plates to mount the bottom of the shock further down?
I imagine that the lower part of the shock body would be too fat to go through the exiting gap in the mounts though? Probably more so with the fastener heads or nuts in the way? Perhaps if you can access alloy welding you could drop the bottom anchor point with completely new brackets? At least that way you could use the longer shock with very little impact on the geometry. Obviously far better to use the correct shock, but it's a thought.
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12-04-2021, 02:40 PM | #86 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,518
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Mr G
The engine end of the non-hoop Ali arm is a big casting, and there is definitely not enough room to drop the shock eye down through it: Nasher
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. |
12-04-2021, 02:57 PM | #87 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,518
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I did get around to fitting the arm and shock.
Considering how much muck and truck was compacted around the front of the arm when the bike arrived, I was quite pleased with how well it cleaned up: I put the S4 shock in with a Hyperpro spring I had hanging around, at this stage just because it's in better shape cosmetically than the one that came with the shock. It will no doubt need changing before I use the bike too much.
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. |
12-04-2021, 04:31 PM | #88 |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Stockbridge
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,984
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Have you checked the exhaus alignment through the new swing arm, or might you need some more ST3 bits to work?
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Original and Best since 1993 |
12-04-2021, 06:11 PM | #89 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portsmouth
Bike: M900
Posts: 1,518
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Darkness hi.
Yep, had the exhaust fitted, but took it off again to do some other work. The rear(vertical) pipe goes straight down through the centre of the hole in the swingarm. I thought I might have to massage it a little, but was really pleased that I couldn't have made it fit better. Nasher.
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Heaven doesn't want me, and Hell is afraid I'll take over. |
12-04-2021, 07:29 PM | #90 |
Transmaniacon MOC
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Sutton In Ashfield
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 6,095
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Should be ok as I believe the ally arm is the same for the 2,3 and 4 valve engines. You can get the S4 sized 45mm headers through. It is a tight fit however though, but most stuff is around there. You need small hands, it's fiddly and knuckle skinning.
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