Main Beam = no lights (and other questions of ignorance)

Hey all,

1- I've got a 2000 m600 that I bought almost blind online as a first bike and not really sure whats normal and whats not with it. But I'm guessing when I have dipped beam on and then push the full beam button in, the result shouldn't be no lights at all.....is this right? The passing switch works though and brings on the full beams.
Any clues on what might be wrong?

2- Also the cable and switch that runs to the side stand, I can't figure out whats it for. There's no side stand light indicator and no engine cut off if I put it in gear while its down.
Is there something I'm missing with it, is it broken? Can I just remove it? What it be for?

3- And lastly If I wanted to add running lights that were always on is there a good/easy connection to add into on the loom or would I just have to run it from all the way from the battery and after the switch? (noobalert)

free cup of tea for any help (sugar not included)

[jerry]

Check the switch contacts spray with contact cleaner , check the bulb contacts too just in case the main filament is busted ,

sidestand switch is not uncommon , if its not interrupting anything best left alone

why worry about running lights leave the dip beam and tail on is easy solution

or as you say run in a new line after the switch if you really want something extra but remember the alternator output is only 350w max

[Saint aka ML]

Start by checking if light pattern changes when you press flasher?

On flasher both main and high beam are on as it is to be temporary.
On high beam on main beam goes off so if your light bulb is broken it will look like flasher is working (light stays on) but in reality high beam is out.


If that makes sense.

If bike starts with side stand down that means one owner in past has disabled side stand switch. On older Monsters you could not start the engine with side stand down (in neutral or not). Easiest solution was to bridge the connector somewhere making it possible to always start the engine.

With checking the switch contacts, does that mean opening up the plastic housing of the bar control?

thanks for the replies

Originally Posted by jerry

Check the switch contacts spray with contact cleaner , check the bulb contacts too just in case the main filament is busted ,

sidestand switch is not uncommon , if its not interrupting anything best left alone

[jerry]

you usually dont nrrd to open the switches , when spraying in contact cleaner but it helps , but dont dismantle too much

[Dennis menace]

My older 600 didn't have a side stand switch, but had the wiring loom connection down near the engine casing on the frame. The switch prevents you starting the engine if the side stand is down, which is a good thing, but it is not essential. I just taped up the connector to keep it clean and dry.

[Dirty]

I removed the side stand switch completely, mainly to just clean up but also because it's my bike and I'll start it perched on my head if I want

I've seen some blanking wire 'kits' on ebay so maybe your bike has something like that already fitted.

Not 100% certain but I think that early Monsters wouldnt run with the stand down which sounds a pain to me (may be wrong of course!)

I know the guy before me had a little tinker all over the bike so I'm pretty sure he's bypassed the side stand switch, its got elec tape wrapped round the plug to the side stand switch :P so that must be it.
Good to know why that cable is not doing anything, thanks all.

Open the switch up, you'll probably find it's corroded. It's quite easy to sort out. If you un tape the side stand switch, you'll probably find that it has been bypassed. It means that you can't idle the bike if you fix it. Which can be annoying.

So I checked and replaced the bulb and the the fuse is ok obviously because the dipped and park light work. I also opened up the left control switch and gave it a spray with contact cleaner, the solder looks fine and no corrosion I can see (pic below) but it still just cuts to the park light only bulb when I push the full beam red button in..the full beam does come on with the dipped when the passing switch is pushed though..

Any you gents might be able to point me in the right direction to look next?

[jerry]

do you have a multimeter ,, to check volts and continuity ???

Originally Posted by jerry

do you have a multimeter ,, to check volts and continuity ???

I might be able to get hold of one, what would fault would you think it could be?

I've just checked mine
P = parking light only
L = Parking Light + Low
H = Parking Light + High
Flash = Parking Light+Low+High

So I would check the connection and wire at the switch end for the High button.
It might be switch out to check Hi Button.

[Mr Gazza]

Okay...You have power to the switch, and power to the bulb holder (at least via the dip beam cable).

So there is a continuity fault somewhere between the switch (including the main beam contact) and the bulb.

Simple things first.
Check that your main beam filament actually does work with a test cable to one of the contacts on the bulb + and touch the bulb case to earth -. Try both contacts seperatly to make sure both filaments work.

Make sure that the bulb is contacting in the bulb holder onto both contacts.

Check that there is power getting to the main beam contact in the bulb holder.

I managed for years without a multimeter, by using an old Triumph rubber tail light bulb holder with crocodile clips on long cables ....Touch the clips on pos and neg and the bulb lights, proving there is a circuit

So to test the bulb holder just clip one end to earth and touch the other, on one of the contacts...Obviously power must be on and high beam selected.

If no power getting to the bulb holder, then test that it is coming out of the switch.

Open the switch as in your picture then test to earth from the soldered end of the high beam cable on the bulb side of the switch. (not sure which one that is, but it will be the same colour as in the bulb holder.)

You should be able to identify dip and main and test each with dip or main selected on the switch.

If all is good there, then it can only be a break in the cable somewhere....Happy hunting for that!

If it is the switch contact, not sure if that can be mended/cleaned or if it is easier to replace the switch.