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05-03-2021, 01:54 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Glasgow
Bike: S4 challenge
Posts: 447
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Threaded sump plug - nightmare!
I've changed the oil dozens of times over the years and I'm always careful with the filter and sump plug.......
Changing the oil this afternoon and noticed that the sump plug (changed to a bolt type instead of the original hex type last year) wasn't tightening up. Not over torqued as I hadn't got to that stage yet! Plug now turning in both directions without tightening or coming out. Clearly threaded. What are my options? 1. Helicoil feasible? 2. Can the sump be changed without splitting the cases? |
05-03-2021, 02:06 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Glasgow
Bike: S4 challenge
Posts: 447
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Forget option 2 - just looked at a parts diagram.
Option 3 - Tapping a larger diameter and using a bigger plug? |
05-03-2021, 02:44 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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I know Timesert do dedicated sump plug replacement kits. https://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html
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05-03-2021, 02:47 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,712
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Helicoil is possible, but not all that easy. If you've used helicoils before you'll be aware of possible pitfalls, I wouldn't recommend trying it as a first foray into re-threading.
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05-03-2021, 02:54 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,712
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Timesert is definitely the best helicoil option, much more secure than the spring type insert. (If you're not familiar with timeserts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggz8AguYtKM) Still need to keep as much swarf as possible out of the case. Getting good working access will be half the battle.
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05-03-2021, 05:49 PM | #6 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,815
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I wouldn't be at all surprised if you found the thread in the sump to be intact and the "new" bolt stripped. I hope you have a happy outcome whatever happens, but I am puzzled at how you will end up removing the plug?
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06-03-2021, 09:17 AM | #7 |
Old Git
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Cricklade
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 2,822
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Only problem with Timeserts is the price of the kits ,, 5 times more than Helicoils
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MONSTERMAN |
06-03-2021, 10:13 AM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Glasgow
Bike: S4 challenge
Posts: 447
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Thanks all. Looking at the options and I'm going to get someone else to do the work. Will report back with findings.
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06-03-2021, 10:21 AM | #9 |
Ciao, come stai?
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Somewhere
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 4,157
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But about ten times a better solution. Fit and forget
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M900 - 1993! Monster 1200R! |
06-03-2021, 01:29 PM | #10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: stourbridge
Bike: M750
Posts: 352
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Interesting thread this...I've got a weep from the sump plug on my M750 and have got to change the washer .Annoying as I've just dropped the oil but I don't change the washer every time I do an oil change-my own fault I suppose...The hex on my sump plug is worn and I have bought a magnetic drain plug with a conventional bolt head to replace it. I'm always worried about stripped threads as they seem to be a common occurrence on old bikes. Never had much luck with helicoils but that's probably down to my lack of skill / experience with them.
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06-03-2021, 02:33 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,712
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The trick with Timeserts is to pick the right depth insert. It's the last few threads that expand to lock the insert in place, so with eg. your crankcase you want to select one (as close as possible to) the same depth as the through-hole to ensure the expanded section of insert is gripping metal and not thin air inside the sump.
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16-03-2021, 08:51 AM | #12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Glasgow
Bike: S4 challenge
Posts: 447
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Sorted over the weekend. Ended up going with Helicoil mainly down to cost (65.00 for the kit) and it's what my mechanic recommended as a initial starting point.
The main issue was getting the threaded sump bolt out. Luckily I had changed to the bolt type sump plug (as opposed to the recessed hex original style) a few years ago. We made an extractor tool using a slide hammer and mole grips. An hour later it was out. It would have been much more difficult to remove a hex type sump plug! The helicoil was inserted smoothly and the cutting tool made light work of the alloy. Lesson learnt.......do not ever tighten the sump plug to 42NM. That's the value in the Haynes manual |
16-03-2021, 08:55 AM | #13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Livingston
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 863
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Well done sir.
What’s the Ducati torque out of interest. |
16-03-2021, 09:05 AM | #14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Glasgow
Bike: S4 challenge
Posts: 447
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That's the thing, 42NM seems to be correct for 916 engines. I'm going back to my instincts and using a new crush washer with each oil change and then nipping up half a turn.
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16-03-2021, 09:19 AM | #15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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Good news - well done!
42Nm also appears in a lot of the Ducati workshop manuals but, as you've found to your cost, it's incorrect. For example, the text of my Evo manual says 42Nm but, in the table of torque settings at the end of the manual, it says 20Nm (+/- 5%), which is the correct figure. (The gauze filter and plug are both 42Nm though.) |
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