Testastretta Tinkering

[Darren69]

So now I have the S4R Testastretta starting good, which appeared to be nothing more than a main earthing issue, I thought I would update with the other stuff I've been doing to the bike since I got it.

It would appear to be a very well cared for bike but had some cosmetic issues which I had to address. I took a bunch of photos which did not turn out so I will redo and re-post them but for now one of the main issues was the "tail chop" which I am not a big fan of an this example was evidence enough, but I just had to make the best of what I had so a cheap Chinese tail chop kit and LED rear light was duly obtained and fitted: -

The original brackets were made up of random Dexion, random ally brackets and thin stainless sheets that were riveted together, ok and worked, but not so good and didn't fit very well. It was rusty and heavy and the indicators were at a crazy angle!


num

Blurry photo sorry. The bracket was 30 quid from China and has LED number plate light and rear reflector as an optional extra. The rear LED light was 25 and fitted fine with the bracket. Personally I think it looks much better than what I had before.

The wiring was kept original as possible but still needs some tidying: -



I've done a load of other minor changes too mostly with parts that I had in boxes left over from the S4 Foggy resto but the pics didn't turn out so good. More to follow:-

[Darren69]

Some S4 carbon Rad guards I had laying around. Were previously for sale but now re-purposed:-



In order to fit them I had to remove the ally rad guard but will be looking to modify it to fit or replace it with a black version to match the oil cooler one at some point.

[Darren69]

i added a brake master cylinder cover which I had knocking around, the rest of the bike has some nice features namely the blacked out cycle parts which were unique to the '07 S4R non-RS Testastretta, namely swingarm, rearsets, yokes and most of what was silver casting on the pre-'07 996 S4Rs



The clutch pressure plate appears to have been red anodized that has been painted over with red paint which is chipping. Will look into that issue at some point but can live with it for now.

[Darren69]

I've added some cheap Chinese bar end mirrors that were similar to the ones Mark had fitted:-

[damien666]

I’ve been blacking out parts bit by bit. For me they should have come from the factory like this including the engine and radiators!
If you’ve not done it yet, the chrome headlamp ring looks good gloss black.

[Darren69]

Added a DP sprocket cover to replace the grey plastic one.

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by damien666

I’ve been blacking out parts bit by bit. For me they should have come from the factory like this including the engine and radiators!
If you’ve not done it yet, the chrome headlamp ring looks good gloss black.

Yea, I've got a carbon headlight shell and rim with LED lamp on my S4 which changes the look completely.

At the moment I'm just going through left over bits that I have hanging around and if they are black they look good on the S4R. I think I have some black levers that will fit as I'm not a huge fan of the shorty ones that are fitted anyway.

[slob]

I like the red painted pressure plate, chips aside, it always irks me slightly that anodised colours never quite match the rest of the bike. I ended up swapping my bright blue pressure plate for a black one.

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by slob

I like the red painted pressure plate, chips aside, it always irks me slightly that anodised colours never quite match the rest of the bike. I ended up swapping my bright blue pressure plate for a black one.

I need to touch up the frame in a couple of places so will get some Anniversary red and maybe do the pressure plate too.

I would consider removing the paint but it looks like the anodising has faded really badly so it looks pink underneath. I can live with it for now but may get a black one at some point.

[alan s4]

Still running with the original clutch slave Darren, your hand will be getting a good work out

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by alan s4

Still running with the original clutch slave Darren, your hand will be getting a good work out

Mark fitted a Factory Racing slave but didn't get on with it, so changed it back to the original. I have it and will probably put it back on at some point. The clutch is heavy especially with the short lever but is still light compared to my Laverda one.

I have one the same on my S4 and it is much lighter but the master cylinder is just about able to pull it with the span adjustment set on max, anything less and it won't fully disengage.

[Mr Gazza]

Okay grandma, this is how you suck eggs..

You know this.. But. On the Goldline clutch master the actuating pin that pushes the piston, threads into the trunnion in the lever. The position of the pin in the trunnion has a marked effect on the lever span/bite point.

I found that the clutch bite was very far out on the lever on my SS. I discovered that the pin had undone a bit from the trunnion and pushed the lever forwards quite a bit.
I wound the pin in as far as it would go and the span reduced considerably, bringing the bite point in closer at the same time.
Further playing with the span adjuster dial got it really comfortable with no slip or drag. This is with a standard servo.
I think that if you wanted a position not fully wound in tight that a blob of locktite would be good, although actually the thread is quite tight and probably tapered? I needed pliers on the pin to turn it.

This is a regular grease point too.. Something overlooked by a Commando riding mate of mine who eats clutch cables!

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by slob

I like the red painted pressure plate, chips aside, it always irks me slightly that anodised colours never quite match the rest of the bike. I ended up swapping my bright blue pressure plate for a black one.

I just rattle-can sprayed mine black, looks good and if it gets too chipped/manky it's an easy job to redo it.

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Okay grandma, this is how you suck eggs..

You know this.. But. On the Goldline clutch master the actuating pin that pushes the piston, threads into the trunnion in the lever. The position of the pin in the trunnion has a marked effect on the lever span/bite point.

I found that the clutch bite was very far out on the lever on my SS. I discovered that the pin had undone a bit from the trunnion and pushed the lever forwards quite a bit.
I wound the pin in as far as it would go and the span reduced considerably, bringing the bite point in closer at the same time.
Further playing with the span adjuster dial got it really comfortable with no slip or drag. This is with a standard servo.
I think that if you wanted a position not fully wound in tight that a blob of locktite would be good, although actually the thread is quite tight and probably tapered? I needed pliers on the pin to turn it.

This is a regular grease point too.. Something overlooked by a Commando riding mate of mine who eats clutch cables!

Yea, the goldline masters I have on my S4 are not the correct 996 ones. I have the earlier 916 ones where I think the same adjustment is with a grub screw in the leg of the lever that contacts the piston.

When I changed the levers for some aftermarket ones I was concerned that I had set the gaps with the grub screws correctly especially for the brake, so I let Neil at Cornerspeed check them over and he said they were good. He also commented that the clutch was just about able to move enough fluid to lift the clutch with the span set to max and may benefit from a newer one. I think if I wind the grub screw in further it will move the bite point but will also then not release the pressure so the clutch may slip.

The ones on the S4R are the radial type and may be better in that respect but. I think I need to understand what exactly Mark wasn't happy with about the change that caused him to put the standard slave back on.

[Darren69]

Nobodys' commented yet on the actual clutch case which has been machined with vent windows. I've seen and have Corse ones where the whole section has been removed but I've never seen one done like mine where some of the outer face is retained.