Front wheel nut torque setting

[slob]

Whilst what Gaza says makes perfect sense, we CANNOT recommend running your bike without a wheel nut, even in jest.
As he says: The wheel spindle is common to other models, which do have a cutout in the (usually Showa) forks for spindle alignment, that ensures access to compression damping screws in the fork bottoms.



2016-2018 M1200R Workshop Manual

Ohlins fork bottom end locking screw M8x1.25 19*Nm GREASE B (Sequence 1-2-1)
Frontwheel nut M25x1.25 63*Nm GREASE B
Front brake calliper retaining screw (RH+LH) M10x1.25 45*Nm GREASE B

* +/- 5%

GREASE B = Molybdenum Disulphide Grease, eg. SHELL Retinax HDX2 or SHELL Gadius S2 V220 AD2

[Mr Gazza]

Originally Posted by slob

Whilst what Gaza says makes perfect sense, we CANNOT recommend running your bike without a wheel nut, even in jest.

Absolutely, and I've never been tempted to run without it, after all its keeping the threads clean for next time and is as good a place to keep it as anywhere. Handy if you ever need to do a wheel change in the wild as well.

It reminds me of the G50 and 7R crankpin nuts that they made at ERM.
Those had a velux thread. (Or was it vernier?) The pitch subtly changed in the length of the nut, so when it was torqued up to something astronomical, it stretched the nut.
Once in place the hexagon was machined off leaving just a collar.
I'm assuming they were chopped off to get the crankpin out as the pin would not be re-used anyway.