UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Engines, Clutch, Gears » Starter motor change - '93 M900

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Old 20-05-2020, 09:55 PM   #16
Goofle
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The sump plug has now rounded the hole for the (correct sized!) tool to remove it. It was out last year for an oil change, and torqued up correctly. Is it made of the softest metal known to man? More to the point, how do I get the bloody thing out now? Should I get a local friendly mechanic to tack weld a bolt into the hole so I get a socket on it?
This bloody bike just keeps giving...
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Old 20-05-2020, 09:58 PM   #17
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Can you hammer a (sacrificial) torx bit into the hole and then put a socket on that?
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Old 20-05-2020, 11:44 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luddite View Post
Can you hammer a (sacrificial) torx bit into the hole and then put a socket on that?
I’ve tried but I’m scared of damaging the casing. I’ve got a Torx that’s looks like it would go but the area around the sump plug seems rather delicate (by design) too and the thought of what bending that area would be brings me out in a cold fearful sweat...
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Old 21-05-2020, 06:29 AM   #19
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Eazyouts?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Easy-Out-...YAAOSwdX1ec6XJ

When you do get it out replace it with a good quality hex head type.

I got a stainless or titanium one in mine, but I can't remember where I got it from. May have been TPO.

Corsa Dynamics list an alloy one, but it's in US

https://motowheels.com/i-7774657-cor...llow-sump.html

I'm sure there are others in the UK. Racebolt maybe?
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Old 21-05-2020, 07:41 AM   #20
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You cannot weld to it. It is made of cast brass, the reason it strips the internal hex is that it is cast and the hex has to be tapered to come out of the mould - no Allen key ever really fits properly.
This is not much consolation to you though.
Aluminium will expand more than brass on heating so either get the engine really hot or use a blow torch around the outside of the plug.
Before doing that I would get a 2 or 2.5 mm drill, having centre popped it first and drill about 2mm into the head of the plug as close to the outside edge as possible. Choose the location of the indentation carefully having regard to the next step
With the engine warm or pre-heated with a blowlamp get a pin punch and drift the plug anti-clockwise at as shallow an angle to the crankcase casting as possible a) to maximise the turning moment on the plug and b) limiting the cracking stress on the crankcase casting - the shallower the angle the more crankcase material is absorbing the blow.
Heat alone might do it so worth a try first.
Good luck
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Old 21-05-2020, 09:21 AM   #21
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http://www.avantiraceparts.co.uk/shop.php?id=3&cat=8
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Old 21-05-2020, 08:30 PM   #22
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Bolt removed! My local friendly (car) garage came to the rescue - he tapped in a oversize tool (evidently less mechanical sympathy than me) and after a bit of a performance it freed up! Well worth the couple bottles of red I donated to his evening!
In other news I've received a replacement starter motor too. It's seized and won't rotate, even freely. That'll be going straight back...
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Old 22-05-2020, 02:52 PM   #23
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£110.00 brand new. Why bother with an unknown used example.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUCATI-Mo...YAAOSwsO1aw0SO
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Old 22-05-2020, 11:28 PM   #24
Goofle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan s4 View Post
£110.00 brand new. Why bother with an unknown used example.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUCATI-Mo...YAAOSwsO1aw0SO
Will that fit though having a bigger pinion?
I've not yet removed my old duff one - are the holes oval to fit the larger diameter gear?
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