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Old 21-05-2020, 03:01 PM   #46
Luddite
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Does your S2R 800 have the "floating" pulleys like these?



If so, are you loosening the bolts (12) when tensioning the belt? If not, then you'll get inaccurate figures because, with the toothed pulley wheel locked, any tension you apply on the tensioner side will be isolated from the opposite run by the fact that the toothed pulleys are immobilised.
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Old 21-05-2020, 03:36 PM   #47
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They look like that yeah although I didn't see anything about that mentioned in the manual.

So assume I have to loosen (but not remove) those on each cylinder and then re-tension? I've not seen/heard that before
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Old 21-05-2020, 04:04 PM   #48
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Also what does it torque back up to? Can't see it in the manual but I read somewhere it's 10nm?
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Old 21-05-2020, 04:51 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rac3r View Post
So assume I have to loosen (but not remove) those on each cylinder and then re-tension? I've not seen/heard that before
Yes, that's right. As you can see from the diagram, the pulley assembly has three parts; the back plate, which is keyed to the camshaft; the toothed, slotted, pulley, which is free to float relative to the back plate once the screws are loosened; and the top washer, which clamps the pulley assembly together.

With the locking pins inserted into the back plate, the cam cannot move, whatever you do to the toothed pulley, so your valve timing is safe. (Don't loosen the pulley wheel without first locking the back plate.)

The securing screws are 10Nm as you said.
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Old 21-05-2020, 04:56 PM   #50
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5NM *+/- 5%

Once again, you really need to read the relevant bits of the manual properly, it's all in there!
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Old 21-05-2020, 05:22 PM   #51
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Well spotted, Rob!

Apologies, rac3r, that 10Nm is from my Evo workshop manual and I assumed it'd be the same for you. But, looking in my 620 manual, where the pulleys are locked in the same way as yours, it says 5Nm as per slob's post.

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Old 21-05-2020, 05:34 PM   #52
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Cheers both, I'd already tightened it up using the marks from whoever did it previously. Both belts around 100hz now and the allen key method also worked (have to admit I was making a silly mistake there lol). Turned it over by hand a few times and then fired it up, all seems well. I shall recheck after a few miles

Honestly I couldn't find any of that in the manual, at least in the places where I thought it would be! Haha
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Old 21-05-2020, 05:38 PM   #53
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I did a search of the PDF and that diagram is definitely not in mine!
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Old 21-05-2020, 05:59 PM   #54
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that’s from my 620/750 manual, it’s in the same place in s2r1000 manual, in routine maintenance(d), just after the torque settings (c)
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Old 21-05-2020, 06:15 PM   #55
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Just went through the whole of D and it's not there. Anyway it's done now and at least I know for next time!

Thanks guys

(I'll still probably be paranoid when I go out for a ride haha)
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Old 21-02-2023, 10:07 AM   #56
smiffyraf1
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sorry to resurrect an old thread but have searched. doing the belt change on the 1000 and want to buy the oem gates as the exactfit copies seem quite hard to find in the uk. Dont fancy fitting the dayco belts as seen some recent pics of failed belts from them. anyone have a good source for uk seller or is it simply a case of going direct to ducati?
alternatives that people can recommend also considered.
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Old 21-02-2023, 10:37 AM   #57
350TSS
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Exactfit belts available here
https://www.ducati.community/threads...stributor.388/
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Old 21-02-2023, 10:47 AM   #58
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oh awesome!
thanks richard that must have slipped by me
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