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Old 05-05-2020, 04:33 PM   #1
rac3r
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DIY Belt Change

Apologies as I know this has been covered a few times but I thought I'd try and prepare and get as much up to date info as possible!

Looking to do the belts myself for the first time so any advice/tips/tricks I should be aware of? I've watched some videos (back in the garage) and read some threads here. Main questions at the moment are: is there a special tool to lock everything in place to stop the timing going out? Can someone explain the belt tensioning with the allen key? Saw it mentioned a few times and seems to be what most people do, I have a rough idea what it is but best to make sure
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Old 05-05-2020, 04:47 PM   #2
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There are locking tools for the cams 2off part# 88713.2282 but you can get away without them.

The 'allen key' method is explained in detail here
http://www.ducatisuite.org/belttension.html

check out https://www.gatescarbondrive.com/products/tools app, it's meant for bicycles drive belts but works well.
There's also a tensioner included in JPDiag, if you have a laptop and a remote microphone.
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Old 05-05-2020, 05:07 PM   #3
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It isn’t hard.
Just take your time, highlight the pulley markings and pointers with typex, take a few photo’s of everything before you slacken the tensioners, and check twice after hand cranking the engine a couple of turns before putting the belt covers back on.

Are you changing the tensioner bearings too? Those do wear/seize/get notchy after a while.

Also, bear in mind that the markings probably won’t align exactly with the pointers. The teeth on the toothed belt have to fit in the slots for them, so there are no half tooth options. Just go with the one that looks most like what was there before you started.
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Old 05-05-2020, 06:02 PM   #4
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The hardest part is removing the covers and getting them back on without scratching them

Read up / watch the youtube videos and take your time, they aren't that hard to do
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Old 05-05-2020, 07:20 PM   #5
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Thanks for the responses guys, I'll give it a shot!
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Old 05-05-2020, 08:00 PM   #6
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DIY belt changes are really quite straightforward, I found it took more time to remove the belt covers than change the belts. I used the Allen key method for setting/checking the belt tension.
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Old 05-05-2020, 08:17 PM   #7
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just make sure you turn it gently by hand for two full turns of the engine when you're done, just to make sure everything's lined up
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Old 06-05-2020, 07:21 AM   #8
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Will do

Are the bearings meant to be done as well or is it just a check it and see?
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Old 06-05-2020, 07:50 AM   #9
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just check for any play or signs of notchiness
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Old 06-05-2020, 02:23 PM   #10
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As already mentioned, a fairly simple task.
Marking the pulleys position makes life a lot simpler, when you remove the belts one of them- the top pulley for me will move as its under tension, it doesnt move far and its a very simple thing to get it back to its marked position using the new belt itself to turn it round.
Likewise, removing the covers was the trickiest thing, - apart from getting the old oil filter off, mine ripped though I got there eventually.
Just take your time and enjoy the work.
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Old 06-05-2020, 02:27 PM   #11
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I think I've slightly confused myself when it comes to setting the tension. I've read that each cylinder needs to be set to TDC when tensioning but I have a feeling this might be for the DS engines?

Also does anyone know the torque value for the bolts? I'll have to buy another wrench as mine doesn't go that low
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Old 06-05-2020, 02:42 PM   #12
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there’s effectively no difference between your s2r and a ds, as far as methods are concerned, yes: check at tdc
20Nm for the static roller + loctite (if you need to change it)
26Nm for the tensioner roller

Last edited by slob; 06-05-2020 at 02:47 PM..
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Old 06-05-2020, 02:51 PM   #13
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Cheers slob
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Old 06-05-2020, 02:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rac3r View Post
I think I've slightly confused myself when it comes to setting the tension. I've read that each cylinder needs to be set to TDC when tensioning but I have a feeling this might be for the DS engines?
As Dave G said, with the horizontal cylinder at TDC power, the cam on the vertical cylinder will try to rotate under the influence of the helper springs, which would, (in theory), affect the tension when you're checking the belt.

If you use the cam locking pins, then you can check both horizontal and vertical belt tensions with the motor at horizontal TDC. If you're not using the locking pins, then rotate the motor until the vertical cylinder is at TDC power.

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58304

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Old 06-05-2020, 03:12 PM   #15
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