restriction kit removal 796

no the bike never ran with or with out restrictor
yellow thing is a tamper proof seal

yes solenoid clicks
volts do not change when hitting the starter button

[slob]

as per Post #10 in the link, the voltage should drop while the starter motor is connected by the solenoid, then recover quickly.
This does suggest a problem with the solenoid or cable/connection between solenoid and starter motor.
If you clip your multimeter + to the stud on the starter motor and - to a good earth, you should see ~12v on the meter when you press the button.

edit: or you have no connection between the battery pos. terminal and the high current side of the solenoid!

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by billy 192

well all it turned out to be a small L shaped piece of steel that just interfered with the throttle stop.
off in 10 mins plus there was a funny yellow seal with wire through the plate. now the throttle goes all the way to the proper stop on the body.

For £175

[slob]

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

For £175

plus fitting!

[slob]

however, in defence of the manufacturer, it’s an easy item to make but probably very expensive to get certified before going into production, which leads to very few units sold.

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by billy 192

ok so solenoid does click when pressing the starter button so i presume the wiring is ok. when i put a muliti meter across the two big bolts there is 12,43 volts when the ignition is on, i thought it should be nil ?

it looks like the solenoid

a bit of back ground (it helps)

I bought the bike just the week the lock down started
it was delivered with a dead battery (**** company)
part exed my 2002 900ie dark
they said buy a batt we will give you the cash i did they did. fitted said battery the discovered still not start. they are not the best at answering the phone or emails. blaming the COVID 19
I rejected the bike and wanted my old (working) bike back. they did not reply until last week. offered me some cash as a settlement. I am pretty good with the mechanical side so I agreed as my worries was they may go bust and i will have nothing. so its then i noticed the restriction.

the bike has only done 6k

Puttling the meter accross the two bolts proves nothing really, you're just completing the circuit with the meter. If it clicks then it is getting power but maybe not enough to throw the solenoid closed. The fact that it turns over when shorting out the solenoid suggests the problem could be with it not closing properly on the button. If you get my point? Does it actiually start when you short out the solenoid?

[Darren69]

You could, if you have enough free hands measure the voltage from the starter motor connection or the one that goes to it from the solenoid when you press the button. I think its not getting enough juice due to faulty solenoid or poor connection on the input side from the button (the plug that goes in the back of the solenoid connected to the starter button.) The starter button could also be at fault if it has poor connections.

[Darren69]

Well I will retract 'it proves nothing' it proves your battery voltage.

Does it actiually start when you short out the solenoid?

shall i put a spanner across the two terminals with the ignition on?
will i harm any thing?

[slob]

you’d want to use something with an insulated grip. earthing 30A through yourself could be fatal!

[slob]

you also need to make sure nothing touches the chassis or other earth, or you risk blowing fuses at best, damaging electronic components at worst.

[Darren69]

Yea be careful if doing that as the issues Rob mentioned.

well tried that engine turns over but no start.
side stand switch working clutch working

[slob]

shorting the solenoid bypasses any of the safety logic using the stand and clutch switches for the starter motor but may still kill the spark.
does your neutral light work?