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Old 15-04-2020, 10:43 AM   #1
Nasher
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Front Mudguard Adaptors

Whilst I had the front end of my M900 apart over the weekend I took some images of the Front Mudguard Adaptors I made a few years ago.

Basically I found that there was a much bigger range of aftermarket and std Ducati front Mudguards available for the later bikes with mudguard mounts that are lower down the fork leg and more widely spaced.

As the mudguards are also slightly wider at the mounting points I made up the adaptors shown below to fit an aftermarket Carbon guard for I think a 999.

They need cleaning up and blowing over with black paint again, but I might get them anodised when my pet Anodiser is back at work.







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Old 16-04-2020, 07:38 AM   #2
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Looks very neat! What do people think about using stainless bolts to hold brake calipers on? I thought they were frowned on?

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Old 16-04-2020, 08:09 AM   #3
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Brake callipers most definitely need to be bolted on! Frowning will not slow you down at all. Although I do often scowl at the idiots looking like they might pull out in front of me..

Your brackets look great Simon. A very neat solution. Next job is to bend some SS wire up into a new Cable guide..
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Old 16-04-2020, 09:29 AM   #4
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Smile

Gary, sharp as a tack this morning! Even scowling won't help though because they won't have seen you and pull out anyway.

Yea, neat brackets Nasher; although I'm pretty sure that's an IE Monster front guard?

Clockie, I think it will depend on what type of stainless it is, some are better than others but I've not had any issues with the ones I used to get from work on any of my bikes. I've recently upgraded the Monster to Ti ones as something to do during lockdown and reduce unsprung weight too of course!
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Old 16-04-2020, 10:05 AM   #5
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Thanks Guys.

Yep SS Caliper bolts definitely frowned upon, even by me up to a few years ago.

But having had a very interesting chat about it to an engineer involved in building rally cars a few years ago I changed my mind.

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Old 16-04-2020, 10:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Clockie View Post
Looks very neat! What do people think about using stainless bolts to hold brake calipers on? I thought they were frowned on?

Nick
I would think that, even if not as strong as high tensile, they would be more than strong enough for the job.

I would and do use them without reservation.

To each their own though...
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Old 16-04-2020, 12:00 PM   #7
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As regards stainless bolts in high-stress positions, purists tend to say no. However, I've often thought that it depends a lot on what torque they take and what metal they thread into. If they are going into light-alloy, as ours often are, that must be a limiting factor in how tight they can be and which part would fail, if any.

I only raised the subject out of interest; I can't remember without looking as to whether I've gone the same route on caliper bolts!

Oh, and I'm sure we all appreciate your efforts to bring a smile, Gary!

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Old 16-04-2020, 12:20 PM   #8
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Oh, and I'm sure we all appreciate your efforts to bring a smile, Gary!
Nick
No effort at all. I've always been a p1sstaker..
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Old 16-04-2020, 12:20 PM   #9
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stainless 10mm Hex bolts more than strong enough dont worry .put some copper slip on to prevent galling on the ally and use correct torque setting
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Old 16-04-2020, 12:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Gazza View Post
Brake callipers most definitely need to be bolted on! Frowning will not slow you down at all. Although I do often scowl at the idiots looking like they might pull out in front of me..


Your brackets look great Simon. A very neat solution. Next job is to bend some SS wire up into a new Cable guide..
Regarding the cable guide; with that later mudguard, if you ever wondered like I had what the hole was for, you could ditch the cable guide and use the one for the later '01 bike. Smaller and much neater looking imo.

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Old 16-04-2020, 02:11 PM   #11
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Thanks Darren, that's useful.

When I put the cable guide back on I thought it was letting the new clean look front end down as it's rusty, and i was going to order a new one.

Think I'll go with the smaller later type now though.

Although I must have some thin Stainless rod in the garage somewhere to make one.

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Old 16-04-2020, 02:41 PM   #12
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I've often wondered what that lug was for because mine is supposed to be an '02 bike as all Foggys are; so has no speedo drive on the front wheel, but as I have been finding some '01 bits have crept in as they were not built on the main assembly line but in another room and using whatever they had by the looks of things, like the '01 ECU that they mated up with the '02 loom on all of them which kinda works 99% with some 1% weirdness thrown into the mix!

But having googled for pictures it looks like most of the Foggys that I can see clearly that side did get the mudguard without the lug so I'm guessing mine has an earlier '01 replacement one. Don't know if there is a captive nut in fixed there or if it's just a hole though?

It was that ebay picture of the S4 for sale with like 1000 miles that did it. But glad to be of help and another mystery solved.
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Old 16-04-2020, 02:56 PM   #13
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The hole is threaded, I noticed the other day.

I thought it must be for a cable guide, but had't realised until I saw it that the later Caliper bolts are recessed into the fork leg brackets and would be difficult to use as a fixing for it.

Notice also the difference in brake line routing, and that the Brembo cast in Banjo bolt stop to aid tightening the banjo bolt isn't used.

I'm such a Saddo to notice these things.

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Old 16-04-2020, 03:07 PM   #14
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You should be able to get away with the banjo/hose re-routing I would think and I actually prefer the earlier caliper in that respect but the later ones had better pad pins.
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Old 16-04-2020, 03:54 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Dukedesmo View Post
I would think that, even if not as strong as high tensile, they would be more than strong enough for the job.

I would and do use them without reservation.

To each their own though...
I think A2 is a general grade and would agree 10mm is more than up to the job. I think if they're torqued up correctly then the fork casting will break before the bolt shears.
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