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Members: 606 | Total Threads: 50,802 | Total Posts: 518,378 Currently Active Users: 319 (0 active members) Please welcome our newest member, andy10v |
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20-04-2020, 11:33 AM | #1 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Glasgow
Bike: M900
Posts: 108
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Since stripping & cleaning the carbs, I left the bike at the point of running with just a wee bit of tuning required. Then lockdown was announced and it went back in the shed.
Took it out again a couple of days later for a run to the supermarket only to discover that it wouldn't start - looks like the starter button was stuck in the last time I rode it. The solenoid wasn't clicking, so assumed I'd finally fried it as it's been sticking occasionally. No bother, thought I, as I have already acquired a replacement. I though I'd try a jump start off the car just to be sure, only to discover that the solenoid _does_ click (and a full charge of the bike battery causes it to click as normal, too). However, the starter does not turn. So I connected jumper leads from the battery to the starter directly and got a definite turn out of it. So the solenoid is (allegedly) working and the starter is (allegedly) working. Oh well, I've always wanted to do that wiring upgrade, and I am in lockdown after all... So I've ordered a few bits and pieces: Exact Start cables, starter brushes/terminal, solenoid (already had that), oil, filter, and other sundry materials. With any luck it'll be starting better than ever. I've also ordered a replacement spring for the sprag clutch, just in case, but I didn't think about the tools I'd also need for that (torque wrench, flywheel puller, etc), so I'll hang onto the spring until such time as I need to replace it or have the tools and inclination to get in and do it. On top of the starter circuit upgrade, I've also got some minor side-mods on the go: - Replaced the mirrors with bar-end type (looking much better without the added height of the mirrors) - Which also meant I needed a mount for the brake reservoir (and discovered that the mirror mounts are M10 _fine_ pitch, which ACCU don't stock - eBay to the rescue!) - Replace the PCV system with a K&N crankcase filter (I don't do wheelies so this shouldn't case me any problems) - Remove the side-pods and re-route the hoses somewhere out of the way of any wind turbulence - I've already replaced the headlights with a stock unit (w/ Carbonvani bucket), but I need to align it Once I've got it back together and running again I can fettle the pilot screws & needle clips to hopefully smooth out that part-throttle transition in the middle of the rev range. Of course this will only be on days that I have essentials to purchase from the supermarket |
20-04-2020, 11:35 AM | #2 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Glasgow
Bike: M900
Posts: 108
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Another thing that I've done is take the starter button/switch assembly off and give it a good clean & grease. Upon reassembly I discovered the problem with the button sticking was most likely that the casing had been screwed onto the handlebar too tightly (which had also made the Off/Run switch stiff - both operate with ease now).
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20-04-2020, 12:55 PM | #3 | |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Quote:
Nick |
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04-05-2020, 03:18 PM | #4 | ||
Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Glasgow
Bike: M900
Posts: 108
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I've been very slowly working on the bike due to a combination of procrastination and waiting for tools/parts to arrive as I discover I need them. In the end I replaced the starter motor as it was stuffed - turning slowly on the bench, replaced the brushes, still turning slowly. So I've got a very shiny new starter system from the motor back to the battery - new solenoid, exact start leads, and the aforementioned cleaning up of the starter button/run switch. Bike starts nice and easy now, though I suspect it'll be even better if I replace the cheap battery with a motobatt. Turning the pilot screws out half a turn each hasn't had much of an impact on the hesitation-around-half-throttle-and-4ish-K-rpm. I suspect this is more of a needle jet transition issue, so I'll probably look to chain the needle height. It's more an issue for slow-speed / round-town riding, so not an issue when I'm out on the country lanes/highways where it runs more or less beautifully. The only thing I haven't achieved on the wee list is the side pod removal, which is something that doesn't bother me too much - eventually I'll get around to it. Next big job, however, is a big clean of the whole bike - it's filthy! Then probably chain & sprockets as I have no idea how old they are. Tyres should probably be changed at some point too - these ones have plenty of tread and feel fine on the road, but they are 2010's according to their DOT marks (battlax's). |
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04-05-2020, 03:48 PM | #5 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,834
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Re the drain hose from the airbox; Utopia gave me a tip with that too and I cut the tube down to about an inch from the box and pushed the rubber tip/gland thingy back on the short end. I wouldn't blank it off as it might serve to drain any water that found it's way in the box, although neither Utopia and I have ever noticed anything coming out of the drain, hence the justification for shortening it.
Glad that you're at least thinking of changing the tyres. 5 years is the maximum life I give my own (bike) tyres others don't seem that fussy, but there is good evidence to suggest that it's a very good idea. Why chance it?
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20-04-2020, 12:08 PM | #6 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
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Plenty to keep you busy there, then!
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Alan has just done this himself so I'm sure he can talk you through the process if you need any further guidance. http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58254 |
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