900Sie bits, Baglux tank cover, bar ends

Originally Posted by Darren69

I've a baglux cover going spare, no bag though. I'll dig it out if interested.

Hi, If you still have the Baglux to fit my 900 I'm interested, Cheers Mike. PS cant PM you as your mailbox is full..

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Dentists mirors - people pay good money for them, so don't chuck 'em in the bin. .. Funnily enough I also had some of those red caps!

I'll send a photo and some dims of the original bar ends, so you know what to look for.
They're nothing special. Mine need a cheer up with some paint or something.

Thanks Gary be handy to know what I'm looking for. The bar-end mirrors didnt come with the bike just the bare-ends I did get std mirrors with it though so thats a plus point.

Mike

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by norvin998

Thanks , they arrived AOK , looking good in black on a black/silver bike.

Glad they arrived safely. I saw the picture of your bike on the other thread.



Looks like you found a nice example there. Those old red caps did stand out like pimples though, didn't they? Black is much more tasteful.

Enjoy the Monster experience!

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by norvin998

Hi, If you still have the Baglux to fit my 900 I'm interested, Cheers Mike. PS cant PM you as your mailbox is full..

TBH Mike it had slipped my mind, sorry. I've still got it and inbox is emptied now!

Originally Posted by Luddite

Glad they arrived safely. I saw the picture of your bike on the other thread.
Looks like you found a nice example there. Those old red caps did stand out like pimples though, didn't they? Black is much more tasteful. Enjoy the Monster experience!

The bit you cant see is the equally obtrusive red Oberon clutch slave on the other side. At £100 a pop I'll have to live with it I think. Or spray it black maybe? Not sure how paint might stick on anodising though. I did send a pair of gold (badly) painted Astralites to get the hammerite or whatever it was chemically stripped off them by a car wheel refurb firm. It took the paint off no problem & also what was left of the gold anodising so now I have a pair of "natural finish" Astralites. Which actually looks quite nice & the anodosing remains so they dont go furry with alloy corrosion. They told me the colour in anodising is just a "dye dip" so a bleaching agent will remove it. Dont fancy experimenting on the Oberon though...

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by norvin998

They told me the colour in anodising is just a "dye dip" so a bleaching agent will remove it. Dont fancy experimenting on the Oberon though...

If you're not interested in selling your old red ones, you could experiment on the clutch cap first...

Originally Posted by Luddite

If you're not interested in selling your old red ones, you could experiment on the clutch cap first...

Pity to mess about with the red Oberons, there might be a red Monster owner out there gagging for a pair. I think I have some gold anodised fairing "washers" which I might play with. I think the (sealed) tank they used for stripping the wheels was filled with filled with methanol so will have to find a friendly speedway rider to blag a litre.

[utopia]

The Oberon clutch slave has a fairly high reputation.
That would be both a good reason for keeping it and/or an indication that it might sell quite easily.
I think they're around the £100 mark new .. or they were when I was looking a couple of years ago.
At that time, I came across the "Factory Racing" slaves, which I believe can be had from Neil at Cornerspeed, Notts.
These are also decent (and rebuildable .. Neil has the parts and will do the job or sell you the bits).
They are also available at around half the price of the Oberon .. or at least that used to be the case if you waited for the regular "offers" that were available.
I have a MPL slave on my 750, which I believe is the same design but alternatively badged .. and I've been pleased with that.
So, what I'm getting at is that you may be able to sell the Oberon and get a Factory Racing one for no extra cost.

comme ca ...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-Fact...oGjHBYozwBzAyw

[utopia]

Also ....
How's that pillion grab rail fitted ?
I'm just curious really, but it is an area that I've been looking at for quite a while now.

And congrats on the new bike .. looks nice.

Is that a faded carbon front mudguard ?
If so, U-Pol clear UV-resistant lacquer is the stuff for a decent refurb.

[Mr Gazza]

That's what my bar ends look like. I posted here so if anyone claims they are not original fitment, then we will all know... As far as I know they are?

Dims (as a cylinder) 32mm diameter, 8mm long OA, parallel for 5mm.
They are held on with a central 6x25mm countersunk allen head screw, but what lies behind, I couldn't say as the ends seem to be stuck in place!
The ends are anodised ally, the screw is plated steel.

Re painting anodised ally; Anodising is nothing but aluminium anyway...Well, combined with a bit of oxygen. If it accepts a dye (and subsequently a bleach), then I don't see any reason why it won't accept an etch-primer and a top coat of your choice.

Those Oberon slaves are very nice btw. If you remove it, be aware that there will be a short spacer within it (about 10mm long I think) to make up for the slightly shorter clutch pushrod on some models (ours). It makes the slave a universal fit for Ducatis, some with, or some without the spacer.

[Mr Gazza]

Originally Posted by utopia

Also ....
Is that a faded carbon front mudguard ?
If so, U-Pol clear UV-resistant lacquer is the stuff for a decent refurb.

It seems they didn't lacquer the carbon in those days. Mine was very dull and "Strangely Brown" too!
I had a bit of a 'mare spraying it, but I got there in the end, with a bit of help from my friends.

Story here.. http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...praying+carbon

Since managing to get a decent finish, I discussed this issue with my professional spraying pal. he said that the pinhole thing is very common with carbon fibre and his advise was to just keep putting it on till they fill.

Having found that brushing the lacquer seems to do the trick, I think that if I were doing this again, I would follow the spraygun with some levelling brush strokes while still wet and then blast more on from the gun. So spray, brush out and spray again ad nauseum.... Perhaps?

[Jez900ie]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Having found that brushing the lacquer seems to do the trick, I think that if I were doing this again, I would follow the spraygun with some levelling brush strokes while still wet and then blast more on from the gun. So spray, brush out and spray again ad nauseum.... Perhaps?

Isn't it easier and quicker to key it back the surface with 1200, then brush on epoxy. Sand it back once all the pinholes blemishes are resolved (sand between each coat). Spray with clear -a couple of coats will be enough to protect the epoxy from UV- and its done!

[Mr Gazza]

Originally Posted by Jez900ie

Isn't it easier and quicker ...... then brush on epoxy.

Simple Answer... No. Have you tried this?

Long answer... 1200 is more of a polish than a key. Epoxy is heavy stuff and goes on thick and uneven. it will show a lot of brush marks and sag before it goes off. You might get a half decent finish if you use an expensive brush, but you'll be throwing it away unless you spend a lot of time with hot soapy water washing it out.. Provided the stuff hasn't started to go off before you finish.

The surface of epoxy takes a long time to go hard, and is awkward to rub down due to it's gummy surface and hardness beneath. It also has a habit of forming bubbles as it goes off, which will simply add to the pinholes already there... If indeed it will fill those?
The epoxy could well have a yellow tinge, which could be patchy depending on how even the coat is.... It certainly will not have the clarity of a two part lacquer.

Stick with lacquer... It handles nicely as a finish, both as a spray or surprisingly well with a good brush too. You can lard quite a lot on without sags, it cures quickly and cuts back with ease with something like 400... Subsequent coats fill all the scratches from the last as the refractive index is the same so they just disappear ( Like broken glass in water!).

That's been my experience... Give epoxy a go and let us know how you get on.

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

That's what my bar ends look like. I posted here so if anyone claims they are not original fitment, then we will all know... As far as I know they are?

Dims (as a cylinder) 32mm diameter, 8mm long OA, parallel for 5mm.
They are held on with a central 6x25mm countersunk allen head screw, but what lies behind, I couldn't say as the ends seem to be stuck in place!
The ends are anodised ally, the screw is plated steel.

Re painting anodised ally; Anodising is nothing but aluminium anyway...Well, combined with a bit of oxygen. If it accepts a dye (and subsequently a bleach), then I don't see any reason why it won't accept an etch-primer and a top coat of your choice.

Those Oberon slaves are very nice btw. If you remove it, be aware that there will be a short spacer within it (about 10mm long I think) to make up for the slightly shorter clutch pushrod on some models (ours). It makes the slave a universal fit for Ducatis, some with, or some without the spacer.

Regarding the bar ends, I'm not sure they are original. I just took a look on Stein Dinse web site and although they don't list the 900Sie but they list '98 M900, 900 ie '00, 900ie '02 and 1000S '04 as the same number 15310031a (looks like a Ducati part no.)

I'm not sure if they all had the same handlebar or whether the 900Sie had a different bar.

http://www.stein-dinse.biz/images/pr.../15310031a.jpg

The other one listed is for S2R and S4RS (I think these had ally bars) = 15310072B

http://www.stein-dinse.biz/images/pr.../15310072b.jpg

Yours look far nicer Gary and at 60 euros (plus postage) for the pair with bushes and screws for each side for the Ducati ones, I know which I prefer!

[Jez900ie]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Simple Answer... No. Have you tried this?

Long answer... 1200 is more of a polish than a key. Epoxy is heavy stuff and goes on thick and uneven. it will show a lot of brush marks and sag before it goes off. You might get a half decent finish if you use an expensive brush, but you'll be throwing it away unless you spend a lot of time with hot soapy water washing it out.. Provided the stuff hasn't started to go off before you finish.

The surface of epoxy takes a long time to go hard, and is awkward to rub down due to it's gummy surface and hardness beneath. It also has a habit of forming bubbles as it goes off, which will simply add to the pinholes already there... If indeed it will fill those?
The epoxy could well have a yellow tinge, which could be patchy depending on how even the coat is.... It certainly will not have the clarity of a two part lacquer.

Stick with lacquer... It handles nicely as a finish, both as a spray or surprisingly well with a good brush too. You can lard quite a lot on without sags, it cures quickly and cuts back with ease with something like 400... Subsequent coats fill all the scratches from the last as the refractive index is the same so they just disappear ( Like broken glass in water!).

That's been my experience... Give epoxy a go and let us know how you get on.

I havent tried it on carbon -yet. I have used it on all kinds of other things, especially on boats! I also did a few people bar tops in Mexico.

The real advantages of refinishing with epoxy are the additional strength, and ultimately -provided you do a good job- the deep gloss look. It is vital that you protect the epoxy with clear coat or it will go yellow...

I will be redoing some parts later in the spring once the weather is warmer. Working with Epoxy is not something I want to do inside my house -the smell is too strong!

Still here's a video from youtube which will give some more details and an idea of the finish you can achieve. Its a fair amount of work but worth it if you are patient.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8qNwNTjOUA&t=34s