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Members: 667 | Total Threads: 50,920 | Total Posts: 519,253 Currently Active Users: 350 (0 active members) Please welcome our newest member, Joshyyy94 |
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07-03-2023, 05:40 PM | #46 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hondon de los Frailes
Bike: S4r
Posts: 292
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Got to be really dedicated to keep it that clean, very impressive.
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08-03-2023, 07:06 AM | #47 |
Silver Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Poole
Bike: M900ie
Posts: 505
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Polished foot pegs, well what's to say, you're certainly putting the effort in, just remember to take a photo when you finish.
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Bitza |
08-03-2023, 04:05 PM | #48 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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Quote:
the engine parts I had been waiting for came, and I finished off the belt covers. I also made the housing for the hall effect triggers, the most accurate bit of machining I have done in years as I needed to locate the sensors exactly 135 degrees apart. I will post some pictures later on that. But for now here is the engine!
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09-03-2023, 09:43 AM | #49 |
preneolithic frebie
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Cambridge
Bike: S4Rs
Posts: 327
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That's looking fabulous Tony,a credit to you as always,good luck with the rest of the build
Kimbo |
09-03-2023, 09:57 AM | #50 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,941
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There's usually at least a hose pipe at the moto cross tracks, so most of the grime should just slide off that high finish.
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10-03-2023, 01:08 PM | #51 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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A nice part of the build is when you start to pull it all together. All that preparation of parts for months before all comes together quite quickly.
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11-03-2023, 07:44 PM | #52 |
Fanactical volunteer
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Kent
Bike: M900
Posts: 9,034
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Looking great again. I have a new project at work soon. An elefant with st3 engine. Looking forward to that.
Keep up the good work
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12-03-2023, 02:52 PM | #53 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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Quote:
that will be an interesting build! One of the things that was missing on the bike when I bought it was a gear lever. No problem I though… until I saw the price! so I decided to make one, and while I was on, make it slightly longer to suit my big feet. I took the one off my other bike as a pattern. I milled it out of a solid piece of alloy plate, and then hand filed it all to shape, and gave it a polish, I was quite pleased with the result!
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13-03-2023, 04:44 PM | #54 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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out in the daylight for the first time in a while ;D
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16-03-2023, 09:08 AM | #55 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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One of the things I wanted on this build was a clean looking rear end. I struggled to find a rear light that was suitable, so in the end I have fitted three 10mm superbrite LED’s as a rear light, and used a resister and diode so its bright and then brighter to act as a stop light.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6Mc2fn0_Kc
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19-03-2023, 12:32 PM | #56 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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I have made a few similar Hall Effect ignition pickups in the past and they have worked brilliantly. This is a refinement on those. This time I have used an alloy cam wheel and put the magnets directly into that, rather than use a separate wheel. the magnets are 3mm as opposed to the 4mm ones I have used in the past, lets hope they are OK! I also swapped out the allen bolts for some none magnetic A4 ones just in case it picked those up.
Previously I have had a small discrepancy in the timing cylinder to cylinder, which is OK as I can compensate for that in the Ignitech software... But it irritated me that I had to do that! I put it down to my rotary table that is not the best and only measures degrees and its difficult to get the holes for the sensors precisely 135 degrees apart. This this time I borrowed a mates table that is very accurate and can measure to minutes. It was a pleasure to use such a wonderful piece of quality kit! Making the pickup plate took some time, probably the most accurate work I have done in a while! I am not sure i needed the heat sink, but it looked aesthetically pleasing so I used it.
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19-03-2023, 02:05 PM | #57 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Leics
Bike: M900
Posts: 2,891
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Nice, not sure if applicable on DS motors? but on the old 2V it would get rid of the wasted spark plus avoid having to remove the case cover/alternator/drain the oil for any servicing.
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M900, 916, LeMans II. |
14-04-2023, 04:02 PM | #58 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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I finished the throttle off... I had to make the adjusters as they needed to be a custom size. I also used cycle gear cable as the nice thing about it is the outer wire is longitudinal, which has several advantages, the one being that you can cut it so the inner liner can extend into the adjusters and into the throttle which makes the entire run of the inner cable within the liner. I was very pleased with the light action, and only a 1/4 of a turn closed to open. We all know a fast action throttle adds 20 BHP ;D
I know that I should use suppressed leads, but I prefer to use copper cored ones. they are easy to make up and you can make them to the spot on length. I have had that crimp tool 50 years! one of the things I wanted to do was get rid of the rubber frame bungs… so I turned up some alloy ones. I needed some alloy bar, so I popped into my local metal recyclers… he had several skips of alloy round bar and machined square and oblong billets, all different sizes… many marked on the end with the material specification! They were just about to be taken away so I had to be quick, I really had to restrain myself though, it was like Christmas had come early!
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15-04-2023, 06:27 PM | #59 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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Things don't always go to plan... I tried to starts it... I had a spark, and lots of backfires, but it would not run. I checked a few things and came to the conclusion it was the pickups... I wasn't sure if it was the actual hall sensors, or the magnets and spacing. I decided to try the magnets and spacing first, and it turned out to be that. not sure if it was the strength of the magnets, or the spacing (I suspect it was the spacing) but either way I had to re design the rotor. soon as I did this, it fired up and settled to a nice tickover. I also breathed a sigh of relief as I had put a lot of effort into the exhaust and didn't know what it would sound like! To me it sounded awesome! here is a short video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4z1kqUoEVk
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17-04-2023, 09:06 AM | #60 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Wolverhampton
Bike: M900
Posts: 397
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the fuel tap proved to be a challenge. It couldn’t go on the tank, but I also didn’t want to on show. In the end I made a small bracket and mounted it out of sight.
I popped into the paint supplier where my mate works… he persuaded me to try some new lacquer which he said the customers were raving about… I reluctantly agreed to try it. Although I had prepped the tank, I thought I would try it on the mudguard first… I am glad I did! It was easy enough to spray, and gave a nice gloss from the gun, BUT it took almost two hours before it was dust free… That may be ok in a heated, dust free paint booth, but in my garage its a distinct disadvantage. So its back to what I know and I went back for some of the formula I always use!
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