Project M1000ie DS

[Nasher]

I'm also now convinced the dodgy tyres, and maybe even the wheels, were put on the bike to sell it.

I mentioned how covered in muck and road grime the whole bike is, but I've now noticed that both wheels are so much cleaner than the rest of the bike.
The Allen bolts for all three discs still have dirt and muck squeezed out of them where an Allen key has been put in, and although the bolt heads and discs are really dirty there is a small clean gap around some heads where they have been disturbed.

The front spindle pinch bolts were also all just finger tight, and at the back the wheel is much cleaner than the sprocket carrier etc.

Nasher.

[Luddite]

That's a very neat tail chop, Nasher - quite factory.

Also, if, as you suspect, the wheels were thrown on just for the sale, then that should put your mind at rest about the overtightened chain, as it sounds like it was never actually run in that condition.

Looking forward to the next instalment.

[Mr Gazza]

I'm pleased to hear that forensics seem to back up my theory that the tyres had only recently been put on for the sale, but the wheels I hadn't factored in... I love a good whodunit.

Two things I noticed, first is that you seem to have put the forks back in much the same place as the previous. That looks a bit low in the yokes compared to my M900Sie with adjustable Showas. Granted yours is a M1000 and later too. I wonder if Dacs would be kind enough to check the protrusion of his forks on his M1000Sie?

Second is the clutch pushrod, well two things with that actually. I have never seen the red seal on the cases before.. Mind you I've not seen many!
The main thing is that I would have expected to see a pinned "anti-rotation" rod in a model of that vintage, that's not to say it's wrong but I thought they were introduced across the range by that time? You should find the corresponding slot in the clutch servo?

[Nasher]

Thanks Guys

Luddite, I've used the std mudguard, mounted further back, but will have to cut the bottom off it to ensure it doesn't touch the tyre.
I've trimmed it a bit at the top so I can shunt the numberplate right up under the rear light, use it's white light section to illuminate the plate and do away with a separate plate light.

I've put a clear lens LED rear light unit in from my parts stash and added some Oval indicators, again from my stash, with clear lenses to replace the stupid tiny cheap and tacky ones that were fitted.

Mr G, that red seal is a bit odd, in that it was just loose, hanging on the rod, I've taken it off now and it doesn't appear to be doing anything.
(EDIT - I've realised of course that it is supposed to be there, going by the parts diagram, so it will go back in.)

I will be putting a Ducati Performance Clutch Slave cylinder on it from my stash.

Nasher

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by Nasher

Mr G, that red seal is a bit odd, in that it was just loose, hanging on the rod, I've taken it off now and it doesn't appear to be doing anything.
(EDIT - I've realised of course that it is supposed to be there, going by the parts diagram, so it will go back in.)

I have an 'Evoluzione' slave cylinder on my 916 - best aftermarket slave I've seen IMO (very nicely made and has a bearing inside in case the pushrod spins) but, unfortunately no longer in production.

Anyway, when I bought it they supplied a grommet (standard electrical style) of the correct ID for the pushrod to fit between slave and crankcase to act as a seal and despite being quite thick it actually does a good job of keeping the crud out.

[Nasher]

I've got a couple of Clutch Slave Cylinder options to fit from my Stash of parts.

I'm most likely to go with the Ducati Performance one.



Nasher

[dacs]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Two things I noticed, first is that you seem to have put the forks back in much the same place as the previous. That looks a bit low in the yokes compared to my M900Sie with adjustable Showas. Granted yours is a M1000 and later too. I wonder if Dacs would be kind enough to check the protrusion of his forks on his M1000Sie?

Look about the same as mine - perhaps Ducati had specified the correct length for Showa by 2004?

[Mr Gazza]

Thanks Dacs.
Well there you go. Different frames, yokes and geometry, so no surprises.

[Nasher]

Yep, thanks Dacs.

I did indeed put the forks in the yokes at the same height the originals.

It seemed like the best place to start, especially as the adjustable forks are the same overall length as the originals.

And actually I'd have had to move the handlebars forward or backwards quite a lot to drop the yokes down the forks, where they are currently the adjusters are just a few mm from touching the underside.

Although that's a bit irrelevant really as I'm converting to a ST top yoke with either the original ST bolt down clip-ons, or more likely using aftermarket clip-ons with the adaptors from Darren.

Nasher.

[Nasher]

I don't actually see how anyone could ride it comfortably with the existing Renthal handlebars that somebody has put on it.

The straight section on each end of the bars isn't long enough for the grips, switchgear, and master cylinders, so the master cylinders are mounted just round the start of the bend.
This means of course that the levers are not parallel to the grips.
They are level with the grips at their inner end, but about an inch or so higher than the grip at the outer end.
It feels really odd.

Nasher.

[slob]

I have Renthal (road- ultra low) bars on my 1000Sie. They're fairly close to the stock bar profile but they do limit the fork fittings due to the height of the adjusters on the fork tops.

On another note I picked up some silver cable ties (for securing plastic hubcaps) at my local motor factor, they're a decent match for the frame paint, ans make a huge difference to how untidy the trellis looks for a couple of quid

[Nasher]

Originally Posted by slob

On another note I picked up some silver cable ties (for securing plastic hubcaps) at my local motor factor, they're a decent match for the frame paint, and make a huge difference to how untidy the trellis looks for a couple of quid

That my friend is a great idea

I'll be on the look out for some now.

Nasher.

[Nasher]

My next problem with the refit is going to be the rear wheel spindle being @5mm too short to go through the Aluminium swingarm.

There were very few non-hoop type conventional (twin arm) aluminium swingarm models, just the M1000ie S, and I believe an ST4 variant, so I'm struggling to find a long enough spindle.
My Aluminium arm is a M1000ie S one which I brought from EBAY US for a surprisingly small outlay.

I thought perhaps a std ST one might be just that bit longer, so I fired off a load of questions asking EBAY vendors to measure the spindles they had for sale, but almost none of them bothered to reply, including none that were selling an ST one, and those that did reply were mostly shorter than what I need.

Can anyone stick a tape measure through their ST 2, 3 or 4 rear wheel spindle and let me know the length please, or perhaps suggest something else?

Thanks

Nasher.

[Mr Gazza]

Damn! Looks like it will have to be a bespoke Titanium one..

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by Nasher

That my friend is a great idea

I'll be on the look out for some now.

Nasher.

Plastic hubcaps? Hmm not sure about that!