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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: London
Bike: S2r 1000
Posts: 238
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Rolling refresh - gauze screen help!
TL/DR:
For S2R1000 (or any 1000DS engined bike I guess) does anyone know: (1) what tool gets the oil pick up filter gauze out (from feeling with finger it’s some kind of internal socket but with too many sides to be a pure 6 sided Allen socket and it’s also bigger than my biggest 12mm Allen socket). It will need a tool I can also use with my torque wrench when replacing it so I can torque it to correct 42Nm spec. I’ve nothing that fits it currently and don’t want to buy the wrong tool… (2) torque (and sealant?) to use on (LCD dash) temperature sensor that screws into the pick-up filter cap. Can’t find anything in workshop manual for either of these questions… More info below So having finally sorted the oil leak (by changing the timing shaft seal) I’m finally doing the minor service. I’ll take the opportunity to correct the incorrect oil cooler lines wrongly fitted by a pro mechanic in the past and do the oil line mod to clean up the timing side at the same time, by swapping the oil cooler delivery line for one from a Hypermotard.. I have also had an issue with temperature readings on the dash since the work on the timing shaft oil seal.. Just getting three dashes rather than flashing “lo” on starting and it rarely giving me readings thereafter or just some rather odd ones of low then a temp than a wildly different temp etc. I disturbed the cable to the sensor during the oil leak work, so hopefully it is an easy fix cleaning up and restoring the connection. And luckily in the meantime I knew this temperature sensor is not that important for running as it just feeds the LCD dash display. The ÉCU takes its feed from the front cylinder, so no issues for engine management. So far I’ve drained the oil, removed the spin on oil filter and removed the oil cooler and lines and drained those too and started cleaning them up. But naturally a few niggles already appear. Having removed the LCD temperature sensor I see as expected it comes with a copper washer (which I’ll be replacing) but it also seems to have some reddish sealant on it. The sensor is M10 but there is nothing listed in the torque settings for M10 oil temp sensor… an “Oil temperature sensor” is listed but this is M12 x 1.5 (not M10). It calls for 18 Nm and lock 4 (Lloctite 510 flange sealant resistant to mechanical stress, solvents and high temps - it’s pink so I think this is what was used rightly or wrongly). I suspect this M12 relates to the ÉCU temp sensor on the front cylinder, not the M10 LCD temp sensor… Anyone know what torque/sealant (if any) should be used here? ‘Helpfully’ (not) the spin on oil filter that I got a correct fitting wrench for so I can fit a new one to the correct torque turns out to be fine for what’s on there now (I checked first) but on removal it’s a champion filter, not a Ducati one. And it turns out Ducati filters have a different number of faces (8). So I’ll need an 8 sided one to correctly fit the new Ducati spin on filter I already got. Grrr… And lastly but most pressing is how to get the oil pick up filter out (the gauze one before the oil pump). On other models like my M600 it appears to come out attached to the cap. However from parts diagram for the 1000DS engine the cap is separate and the filter itself also appears to have a thread and some kind of socket (it’s also listed with a torque setting in the manual). From feeling with my finger it’s not a 6 sided Allen socket though (hard to tell but maybe 12 sided?) and it’s bigger than my biggest long 12mm Allen socket. Anyone know what socket I need to get this out/refit it using a torque wrench? Some larger size of long Allen socket wrench? Or some special >6 sided tool? Any thoughts apprecaiated! Another simple job already becoming complicated/slowed by needing things I don’t have… Last edited by yellowfever; 16-10-2024 at 06:02 PM.. |
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#2 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: London
Bike: S2r 1000
Posts: 238
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Well I answered (one of) my own questions
![]() I dimly recalled randomly having a large somewhat rusty Allen key of unknown size that I think was from my dad’s old tools. After some digging I managed to find it and what do you know it fits perfectly! It’s 14mm in case anyone wants to know… So I guess I’ll give it a bit of a clean and then be spending some time with a hacksaw so I can use it with a 14mm socket… or use it with an extension bar to remove filter and buy a proper 14mm hex key socket for when it comes time to refit and torque up. |
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#3 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: London
Bike: S2r 1000
Posts: 238
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OK after some further checking the LCD temp sensor (thermistor) is definitely M10 x 1. There are only two references to temperature sensor in the torque listings which are:
Oil temperature sensor holder nut M30 x 1.5 = 38 NM Lock 4 (loctite 510) Oil temperature sensor M12 x 1.5 = 18NM, Lock 4 (loctite 510) neither of which is for M10 x 1. There are max torque settings listed for (otherwise) “unspecified fasteners” of various diameters and pitches, but again no listing for M10 x 1. All the M10 x 1 fasteners listed in the torque settings table are clearly not the oil temperature thermistor from their descriptions… The first reference to oil temperature sensor appears to be a reference to the large ring nut that holds the ECU temperature sensor on the horizontal cylinder. The second reference may also relate to that same temperature sensor (the parts diagram shows many components making up this assembly) but I think I’m going to assume this is guidance intended for the M10 x 1 LCD oil temperature thermistor, but with the size and pitch details listed incorrectly in the manual. Supporting this interpretation, there is clear evidence of a reddish/pink sealant (same colour as lock 4/loctite 510) on the M10 x 1 thermistor (which I doubt has ever been removed previously) and 18NM does not sound out of whack for M10 fasteners using flange sealant (similar to torque values specified for various other M10 x 1 fasteners for the engine and well below max torque for otherwise unspecified M10 x 1.5 fasteners which are given a max torque of up to 45 NM). So I think I’ll have to assume an error in the workshop manual (a not exactly unheard of occurrence) and use 18 NM and lock4/loctite 510… I’ve also ordered a long M14 Allen bit socket so I can refit the oil pick up filter gauze to the correct torque. And an 8 side oil filter wrench to fit the new Ducati oil filter I’ll be fitting to the 11NM torque. Fingers crossed everything turns up ASAP so I can get the moto ready to go for some nice weather we may get next week… |
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#4 |
Dismantled
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: East Molesey
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 2,241
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18 NM sounds about right or that sensor personally in more years than I care to think about I have never used a torque wrench on a sensor
As for the sealer 510 is perfect for that job, high temp-chemical resistant is all that matters for that task, three bond will also do the job if thats what you have
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"Political correctness is just intellectual colonialism and psychological fascism for the creation of thought crime" |
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#5 |
Old Git
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Cricklade
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 2,891
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I used a 14mm hex to get the mesh filter out on S4 , my other monster 750 and ss are different they just pop out
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MONSTERMAN |
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#6 |
Bronze Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: London
Bike: S2r 1000
Posts: 238
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Thanks Kato, appreciate the reassurance I’m on the right lines. I’ve got loctite 510, so I’ll be using that.
Thanks Jerry, yeah I was expecting filter would just pop out like on my M600 so it was an unwelcome surprise to find I needed a long M14 Allen key (and that I don’t have that in socket form). Anyway I’ll have the correct socket soon via Amazon so I can correctly torque it up on re-fitting. |
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