Rear wheel removal tool - Page 2

350TSS · 20-02-2018, 06:00 PM

Clarke/Machine Mart do a mains electric one for about 60 to 65 sobs which was the only thing that would shift my crankshaft pinion nut. Just be careful using it that the trigger is the right way or else you have an even bigger problem. Worth waiting for a VAT free day and also getting some deep impact sockets because it will shred cheaper non impact ones

Luddite · 20-02-2018, 07:48 PM

I have a 24v cordless Clarke model that I got from Machine Mart. It was about £80 during one of their VAT-free promotions but unfortunately is no longer available. It's rated at 220Nm and makes short work of the rear wheel nut (176Nm).

The nearest equivalents at Machine Mart now are this 18v 220Nm cordless at £80 (PLUS battery & charger though)

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/kiel...rushless-impa/

or this corded 450Nm model at £72.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clar...impact-wrench/

You should only use chrome molybdenum sockets (the black ones) with an impact driver as the regular chrome vanadium ones can shatter under the repeated impacts of the driver.

The other benefit of using an impact wrench is that you don't need to lock the wheel to undo the nut like you would with a breaker bar; you just steady it with your hand while the wrench does the work. The torque is transferred directly to the wheel nut and doesn't really try to spin the wheel.

It's important to ensure the wheel nut is fully torqued-up when it's replaced. If you don't have a suitable torque wrench, make adjacent punch marks on the nut and the edge of the spindle. Then, when you replace the nut, just align the two marks.

That assumes that the nut was torqued-up correctly before you undid it, of course. For peace of mind, after the first time you remove the wheel, I'd recommend you use a torque wrench (your friendly dealer?) to check the tightness.

Finally, make sure you lube the threads and the base of the nut with molybdenum grease, otherwise the torque reading will be wrong.

Dukedesmo · 20-02-2018, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luddite

Finally, make sure you lube the threads and the base of the nut with molybdenum grease, otherwise the torque reading will be wrong.

Plus, you might not get it off so easily next time...

20-02-2018, 08:22 PM

My lad lent a snap on one last year and I was really impressed how much guts it had.

Mr Gazza · 20-02-2018, 08:41 PM

I bought one of these and it won't even pull the skin off a rice pudding!!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powerful-...0AAOSw0vBUiiCI

What numbers do I need to look for to get something that will get my clutch nut off?

Luddite · 20-02-2018, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

I bought one of these and it won't even pull the skin off a rice pudding!!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powerful-...0AAOSw0vBUiiCI

What numbers do I need to look for to get something that will get my clutch nut off?

Clutch nuts are in the region of 190Nm so that one you bought (310Nm) should have done the job. As it's an air wrench, could your compressor be the limiting factor?

That corded Clarke one I mentioned above is rated at 450Nm so should be more than up to the job.

Dukedesmo · 21-02-2018, 08:13 AM

Some of the air wrenches are definitely not up to their claims.

I bought one that gets nowhere near shifting clutch, flywheel or SSSA rear wheel so I bought another claiming 500nm + and whilst it gets the job done I'm dubious of the claims and I do have a suitable compressor.

Mr Gazza · 21-02-2018, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luddite

, could your compressor be the limiting factor?

I did wonder if there was not enough wind there.
My little compressor can pump 9.5cfm, but I run the wrench off the unregulated air @ 115psi. The compressor cuts in very soon after I pull the trigger and can't keep up, if I hold it.
So I'm guessing there is not enough volume there? Not much point me looking at other wrenches if the compressor is not good enough suppose.
It says 90psi on the box, but no sure what that means, precious little info supplied. I just assumed 115psi would do the trick.

Pedro · 21-02-2018, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

I did wonder if there was not enough wind there.
My little compressor can pump 9.5cfm, but I run the wrench off the unregulated air @ 115psi. The compressor cuts in very soon after I pull the trigger and can't keep up, if I hold it.
So I'm guessing there is not enough volume there? Not much point me looking at other wrenches if the compressor is not good enough suppose.
It says 90psi on the box, but no sure what that means, precious little info supplied. I just assumed 115psi would do the trick.

Its not the pressure that’s the issue it’s the flow rate, the cfm

Mr Gazza · 21-02-2018, 07:12 PM

Sure the compressor is only 9.5cfm, but I would have thought that as much as needed would flow out of the tank until exhausted. Granted it will only pump it back in at 9.5cfm.

It's soon out of air though with only a 50L tank.
Do you think it would work better with my auxiliary tank hooked up (about 75L I think) and a bigger bore hose? I have a 10mm id hose now.

I know it would take a while to fill, but I might get a hard enough initial blast for the gun to knock the nut off?

Mossleymonster · 22-02-2018, 09:56 PM

I'd love any sort of hard initial blast. Must be my age.

18-03-2018, 08:23 AM

I bought an electric impact wrench off eBay and it does a great job on those spindle and hub nuts.

Capo · 18-03-2018, 11:04 AM

I've got a Sealey supposed to be 350nm but it wont shift the rear wheel nut. In fact it wont even undo the wheel nuts on the car.

Rally · 18-03-2018, 11:08 AM

When I got a puncture in Belgium, the guy who repaired it showed me a very clever trick how to get it off;
All he did was whilst on a centre stand, he put the socket on the nut (after removing the lock wire) with a long bar resting on the ground, he started the bike, put it in first gear and released the clutch at tickover, it came undone with ease.
Then when refitting it, he set the torque wrench, put it on the nut again with the wrench facing forwards and onto the floor and then grabbed the new tyre and spoke of the wheel and pulled hard until it clicked. He claimed it was easier than doing it via the wheel than by pulling on the wrench whilst trying to hold the brake on!
I've not tried it myself, but that day he made it look very easy indeed.

Joshua Brew · 18-03-2018, 02:37 PM

Hi, does anyone know of any 46mm replacement wheel nut? Also is there a combi socket available? 46/41 1100 evo

20-02-2018, 08:41 PM	#20
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,801	I bought one of these and it won't even pull the skin off a rice pudding!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powerful-...0AAOSw0vBUiiCI What numbers do I need to look for to get something that will get my clutch nut off? __________________

21-02-2018, 08:13 AM	#22
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,842	Some of the air wrenches are definitely not up to their claims. I bought one that gets nowhere near shifting clutch, flywheel or SSSA rear wheel so I bought another claiming 500nm + and whilst it gets the job done I'm dubious of the claims and I do have a suitable compressor. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

21-02-2018, 07:12 PM	#25
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,801	Sure the compressor is only 9.5cfm, but I would have thought that as much as needed would flow out of the tank until exhausted. Granted it will only pump it back in at 9.5cfm. It's soon out of air though with only a 50L tank. Do you think it would work better with my auxiliary tank hooked up (about 75L I think) and a bigger bore hose? I have a 10mm id hose now. I know it would take a while to fill, but I might get a hard enough initial blast for the gun to knock the nut off? __________________

20-02-2018, 06:00 PM	#16
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Clarke/Machine Mart do a mains electric one for about 60 to 65 sobs which was the only thing that would shift my crankshaft pinion nut. Just be careful using it that the trigger is the right way or else you have an even bigger problem. Worth waiting for a VAT free day and also getting some deep impact sockets because it will shred cheaper non impact ones

20-02-2018, 07:48 PM	#17
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	I have a 24v cordless Clarke model that I got from Machine Mart. It was about £80 during one of their VAT-free promotions but unfortunately is no longer available. It's rated at 220Nm and makes short work of the rear wheel nut (176Nm). The nearest equivalents at Machine Mart now are this 18v 220Nm cordless at £80 (PLUS battery & charger though) https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/kiel...rushless-impa/ or this corded 450Nm model at £72. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clar...impact-wrench/ You should only use chrome molybdenum sockets (the black ones) with an impact driver as the regular chrome vanadium ones can shatter under the repeated impacts of the driver. The other benefit of using an impact wrench is that you don't need to lock the wheel to undo the nut like you would with a breaker bar; you just steady it with your hand while the wrench does the work. The torque is transferred directly to the wheel nut and doesn't really try to spin the wheel. It's important to ensure the wheel nut is fully torqued-up when it's replaced. If you don't have a suitable torque wrench, make adjacent punch marks on the nut and the edge of the spindle. Then, when you replace the nut, just align the two marks. That assumes that the nut was torqued-up correctly before you undid it, of course. For peace of mind, after the first time you remove the wheel, I'd recommend you use a torque wrench (your friendly dealer?) to check the tightness. Finally, make sure you lube the threads and the base of the nut with molybdenum grease, otherwise the torque reading will be wrong.

20-02-2018, 08:22 PM	#19
Dave62 Guest Posts: n/a	My lad lent a snap on one last year and I was really impressed how much guts it had.

22-02-2018, 09:56 PM	#26
Mossleymonster Registered User Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Barnsley Bike: M1100s Posts: 238	I'd love any sort of hard initial blast. Must be my age.

18-03-2018, 08:23 AM	#27
DynoMan Guest Posts: n/a	I bought an electric impact wrench off eBay and it does a great job on those spindle and hub nuts.

18-03-2018, 11:04 AM	#28
Capo You Are What You Is Join Date: May 2005 Location: A Foward Location Bike: S4r Posts: 1,948	I've got a Sealey supposed to be 350nm but it wont shift the rear wheel nut. In fact it wont even undo the wheel nuts on the car.

18-03-2018, 11:08 AM	#29
Rally Taking life easy........ Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Wiltshire Bike: Other Not a Ducati Posts: 1,969	When I got a puncture in Belgium, the guy who repaired it showed me a very clever trick how to get it off; All he did was whilst on a centre stand, he put the socket on the nut (after removing the lock wire) with a long bar resting on the ground, he started the bike, put it in first gear and released the clutch at tickover, it came undone with ease. Then when refitting it, he set the torque wrench, put it on the nut again with the wrench facing forwards and onto the floor and then grabbed the new tyre and spoke of the wheel and pulled hard until it clicked. He claimed it was easier than doing it via the wheel than by pulling on the wrench whilst trying to hold the brake on! I've not tried it myself, but that day he made it look very easy indeed.

18-03-2018, 02:37 PM	#30
Joshua Brew Registered User Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Wrexham Bike: M1100evo Posts: 55	Hi, does anyone know of any 46mm replacement wheel nut? Also is there a combi socket available? 46/41 1100 evo