Tightening that SSA wheel nut.

[Darkness]

Originally Posted by the lodger

As an interested observer, why does the nut need to be so insanely tight?

Also my experience of using an Abba stand is very positive . It's easy to use once you get the hang of it.

What’s the worst that could happen if it came loose?

On balance, I think I’d want one tightened to manufacturer’s specifications!

[slob]

Originally Posted by the lodger

As an interested observer, why does the nut need to be so insanely tight?

I think it’s because single siders have a bloody big spindle and corresponding nut.
What you’re after is axial tension in the spindle and to achieve that you have to overcome the friction of the threads, humongous thread diameter = insane torque setting.

[Dukedesmo]

AFAIK Ducati use two sizes of stand spindle; the smaller (originally made for 916) fits the smaller hub SSSA bikes and the larger (originally made for 1098) fits the later, more powerful bikes (1098, 1198, 1200 etc.) the most obvious difference visually is the smaller hubs have a 5-bolt sprocket carrier and the larger a 6-bolt carrier.

I have a 916 and have always managed to torque up the nut whilst bike on paddock stand, holding it with the rear brake. Use moly grease on the threads and have a long torque wrench with a well-fitting socket - most conventional sockets have a chamfer at the opening and this means you don't get enough purchase on the slim wheel nut and slipping can end in injury - I had the (46mm socket) chamfer machined off so that it's got a nice 'sharp' edge.

[Mr Gazza]

Originally Posted by rollo22

the easiest way i find is to use a rattle gun.
Just remember to put grease in all the right places before trying to do it up.

I've been told that rattle guns shouldn't be relied upon for an accurate torque. I've never used one for doing up, only undoing.
Apparently you can use a torque stick of a pre-set value to control the rattle gun's torque.
My quick search did not find one of 176NM or 130 lbft but I'm sure that one could be found?

They look like this..

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by slob

I thought DP stands had a big c-clip on the end of the pin so you could change it?

I just checked mine, Rob, and it does have the large circlip holding the pin in, but it didn't come with an alternative. There seems to have been two variants available at the time; the one I have (967040AAA) with just the one pin and another (96757207BA) with two interchangeable pins.

Originally Posted by Pedro

Pin diameter is bigger on Diaval and 1200 Monsters - also the new Multistradas. All use the “big” axle

I remember checking suitability a couple of years back and saw that the same stand that was listed for the S2R and M1100 was also shown for the Diavel and M1200 but that must have been because it came with two pins to suit both model range, so apologies for any confusion.

[Ron1000]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

I've been told that rattle guns shouldn't be relied upon for an accurate torque. I've never used one for doing up, only undoing.
Apparently you can use a torque stick of a pre-set value to control the rattle gun's torque.
My quick search did not find one of 176NM or 130 lbft but I'm sure that one could be found?

They look like this..

Rattle gun on is a no no from me. If I was the law all rattle guns would be one setting and one setting only ‘off’

Torque wrenches aren’t mad expensive and most anybody in here will be able to put 200nm of force through one. So rattle gunning things on to 176 or so is crazy.

Imo.

I do like those torque sticks tho.

[slob]

Originally Posted by Luddite

...it does have the large circlip holding the pin in, but it didn't come with an alternative...

Utopia made me a new headstock pin for a (GSXR) Micron stand I got cheap on fleabay a few years ago, I’ve since got my own small lathe and have turned various replacement pins for people. If it can be measured, it can be made :-D

[Mr Gazza]

Originally Posted by Ron1000

Rattle gun on is a no no from me. If I was the law all rattle guns would be one setting and one setting only ‘off’

Torque wrenches aren’t mad expensive and most anybody in here will be able to put 200nm of force through one. So rattle gunning things on to 176 or so is crazy.

Imo.

I do like those torque sticks tho.

I'd have to agree with you Ron, but the torque sticks piqued my interest quite a while back when we used to run Winter and Summer wheels and tyres on a car, I thought they would make the bi-annual wheel changing chore a bit easier, but I didn't get round to actually buying one!
It does seem to be quite difficult to find one of just the setting that you need.. And then it will only do one thing, so you need to be using a lot of that particular torque to make it worthwhile. (Like 16 or 20 wheel nuts twice a year?)
I just wondered if anyone has any experience of them?

[slob]

Originally Posted by Ron1000

...

I do like those torque sticks tho.

I have long thought about, but never got round to, buying a Topeak Nano Torqbar for doing up customers' engine casings etc. reducing the possibility of stripping a thread, although I've not been working since smashing myself up and have found experience means very few stripped threads anyway, unless they were on the way out and probably wanted a helicoil anyway.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by slob

I have long thought about, but never got round to, buying a Topeak Nano Torqbar

I like that! What a neat design. I can imagine Q issuing one of those to 007...

[crust]

I use one of these when working on my mountain bikes, brilliant bit of kit, saves loads of time and possibility of stripped threads.

https://www.topeak.com/global/en/pro...s/767-TORQUE-6

Rob, sorry to hear you've been in the wars.

[slob]

Originally Posted by crust

... saves loads of time and possibility of stripped threads ...

Or worse, if you’re doing up a clamp round a carbon tube, which is getting ever more common on bicycles these days.

Originally Posted by Ron1000

It’s honestly not that hard. 176nm. Wheel on deck and someone holding brake and front of the bike.

That bolt setup looks sketchy at best.

I can't always rely on having an assistant, so I use an ABBA stand and a ratchet strap. Hook the strap over the ABBA stand where it fits into the swing arm bolt, through the back wheel and take up the slack with the ratchet. Works for loosening as well as tightening if you adjust where the strap goes through the wheel. If you use a paddock stand then you can hook the strap on a frame tube/footrest bracket

[Ron1000]

Originally Posted by Druid

I can't always rely on having an assistant, so I use an ABBA stand and a ratchet strap. Hook the strap over the ABBA stand where it fits into the swing arm bolt, through the back wheel and take up the slack with the ratchet. Works for loosening as well as tightening if you adjust where the strap goes through the wheel. If you use a paddock stand then you can hook the strap on a frame tube/footrest bracket

T’is a good point that. I’ve had to get my wife to help me before, many favours are promised in return for the assistance.