Rolling refresh - electrical stuff

yellowfever · 12-09-2024, 11:28 PM

So whilst waiting for split ring for engine timing shaft seal refitting I’ve been enjoying making some progress on electrics. First I removed a very clunky old Garmin Zumo 660 GPS wiring harness (had loads of wires for hard wired headphones and mic that I never used and all the wires in one cable and hardwired into GPS cradle so you can’t easily ditch them). Now cables are off the bike I’ll try to strip and adapt cable for just power via USB in case I want to use GPS in future. Will be a last resort tho’ as Garmin announced my “lifetime maps” subscription will never be updated again after this month as unit becoming obsolete…

In place of that I have fitted an ultimate addons waterproof phone case (excellent customer service, and decent looking products, will see how it is in use) to the RAM mount the GPS cradle was on. This way I can use phone navigation, going to try a few different apps and see what I like.

To power the phone when needed I also fitted combined voltmeter and twin USB cockpit power supply on handlebars unit has an on/off switch too and voltage reading seems accurate when compared with my multimeter. I did have to snip the too long cables and refit the fuse but not difficult and I used good quality fittings to do it, so should be reliable. Again will see how it does.

yellowfever · 12-09-2024, 11:30 PM

Also took the opportunity to tidy up heated grips wiring which had been installed rather shonkily by a pro with some rather dodgy messy soldering and a bit of now failing electrical tape. To be fair he did install to an ‘only live with ignition on’ feed so no flat butteries over the years (useful these are old grips produced before the fancy auto shut off ones that you can get now). I was not super happy the feed was from rear brake switch as wires look pretty thin and GPS was also powered through this, but I guess it’s a circuit you can do without in a pinch, so that was probably the logic along with only one circuit tapped so less messing with original loom. Anyway they worked fine for many years so I guess he is vindicated and it was entirely reasonable function over form..

For this electrical refresh I fitted a healtech unit to organise my electrical accessories better. It’s wired direct to the battery but is meant to auto switch on and off etc. But there’s also an option to have it triggered on and off by an ignition feed instead, which apparently can be necessary instead of the automatic mode for some bikes and/or in some cases when charging the battery. . Given I was removing an existing ignition feed I took the opportunity to wire this feed up the the healtech. I’ll probably make it switchable when I’ve more time (can plug/unplug bullet connector for now) then I’ve got both options easily eg if I want to leave it automatic except when battery charging through my powerlet socket.

Also gave battery posts and connections a good clean and removed the earth chassis connection to clean and refit it including replacing the damaged powerlet earth contact which also grounds here.

Still to fit a dedicated Keiss heated vest socket to healtech but that’s for another day. Been using the powerlet socket with lead I swapped plug on for DIN plug myself. One drawback was losing the fuse and having to rely on the powerlet fuse which has quite a high fuse rating for battery charging and using my mini travel air compressor. Although I checked this was OK with Keiss, I was never 100% happy with this set up and so prefer to install and use the original (lower fused) lead on a dedicated feed. My thoughts on this were reinforced inspecting my powerlet to Keiss lead and finding it has partly melted on the exhaust due to me having made it a little longer than strictly ideal to enable getting on and off the bike without violently unplugging myself.

yellowfever · 12-09-2024, 11:33 PM

Got to say I quite enjoyed this, slow but steady progress and quite satisfying organising it all neatly. More fun than the oil leak/new seal job anyway! Only annoyance was forgetting to slide heat shrink on before fitting terminals (twice!). So extra crimping practice was had…

Will have to wait until bike back on road to test out new navigation and check all is reliable. But so far so good…

slob · 13-09-2024, 09:26 AM

I also found ultimate add ons excellent over the years.
I settled on co pilot gps app on iphone and bought ‘europe’ and, later ‘africa’ maps, although you can settle for smaller regions such as just ‘western europe’
my biggest problem was not turning off cellular data for map updates, which left me dowloading gigs of maps over a slow connection while i should have been travelling, lesson learned rtfm!”

yellowfever · 13-09-2024, 02:11 PM

Hi Rob, good to know you also find Ultimate addons kit good. Obviously no long term test yet for me, but I was very impressed with customer service (lady even found staff member with same model phone as me to test which case and inserts would work best for me) and product looks solid, so encouraging so far.

Not heard of Co-pilot app, I’ll check it out. For fun rides/planning I am also checking out Go Ride and Calimoto based on other recommendations. Plus Waze is very good when you just want to get somewhere fast/direct (rather than a nice planned route) as excellent avoidances and accident/camera alerts etc

slob · 13-09-2024, 07:19 PM

I lost a week old iphone4 in UAO tough case in between Buggenhout and Moerzeke years back, I hadn’t clipped it in properly and it wasn’t on a lanyard or charging cable. I was overtaking the convoy after blocking a roundabout so ‘making good progress’. At the next lights JP said ‘something came off your bike’ and crust said ‘it bounced over my head’, while we were looking for it on the verge a Dutch guy stopped and said ‘your satnav landed about 300m that way’. When we found it the case was trashed but the phone was mint :-)

co pilot allows different vehicle profiles, which is nice. I have a bike profile that avoids motorways and towns and a car profile that prefers motorways.

yellowfever · 14-09-2024, 11:40 AM

Wow! That is robust! Tho’ I hope not to test my case quite that thoroughly

Sounds good, gonna download it and look into it. Just got notification Go Ride app is discontinued as of tomorrow

shame as it got good reviews and allowed GPX import (it’s by Tom Tom). They have an alternative app now apparently…

dunf · 16-09-2024, 10:07 AM

Last year i started to look at similar wiring install for heated gloves / vest but then came across an article that suggested my Monster already came pre-fitted from factory with an ignition live aux feed under the tank. Intended for heated grips apparently. All i had to do was buy the opposing connection piece and run the wire. Happy days.

slob · 16-09-2024, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dunf

Last year i started to look at similar wiring install for heated gloves / vest but then came across an article that suggested my Monster already came pre-fitted from factory with an ignition live aux feed under the tank. Intended for heated grips apparently. All i had to do was buy the opposing connection piece and run the wire. Happy days.

here you go dunf (this was a 2017R rather than an S)
http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58318

dunf · 17-09-2024, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

here you go dunf (this was a 2017R rather than an S)
http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58318

thats the one!

yellowfever · 17-09-2024, 02:33 PM

That’s neat

, no such option on my S2R sadly. There’s apparently an unused always live berth in the fuse box on my bike that can be wired up and used eg for battery charging. But as I installed an excellent bespoke for my model powerlet socket direct to battery and chassis earth many years ago I’ve never bothered to use this spare fuse box berth. As it’s always live I prefer an ignition live feed instead for same reasons as you.

yellowfever · 20-09-2024, 05:09 PM

As further light relief during timing oil seal work, I did a bit more refining of this healtech install. I custom shortened all the cables to and from it taking the opportunity to put protective sheathing over the wires and re-crimping ends with either heat shrink terminals or ones that fit into the healtech quick connect bus (rather than just using bare wires as they suggest).

I also installed a small switch so I can easily operate the healtech either in auto mode or ignition triggered. The latter mode can be useful for battery charging or for instance if I want to make the voltmeter live before starting engine.

It was all pretty tight and fiddly, so it took quite a while. But I am very happy with the outcome, it’s neat and the switch is nicely hidden/protected from weather but still easily accessible under the edge of the tank next to the fuse box.

I also briefly tested everything and healtech auto mode seems to work fine - it keeps everything powered off until it senses the engine has been started and is ticking over in steady rhythm with steady charge from alternator. It stays live for a few seconds after shutdown before auto shutting off. In ignition triggered mode it comes on (again with a few seconds delay) once ignition turned on, so eg I can read voltmeter without starting engine if I want to. And again it shuts off with a few seconds delay once the ignition is turned off.

I’ve got to install one final accessory into the healtech, the dedicated Keiss heated vest lead. Comes with a nice waterproof but egregiously large fuse holder and rather long wires, so some surgery will be required once I figure out routing/where I can fit the fuse (or whether to swap to another smaller fuse holder).

I also sorted cleaning and checking and repairing wiring and connections as I came across them for this or for the oil seal change. I found a split wire sheath showing bare wire on the oil pressure sensor. Tricky location but I managed to sort it fairly neatly with two coats of some liquid electrical ‘tape’ and then glue lined heat shrink. 95% of the time was spent wrestling the heatshrink over the rubber boot which couldn’t be removed without butchering the loom. And most of the rest of the time was disassembling the superseal connector.

I also found a damaged outer sheath on another wire in that area, but this was easier to get glue lined heat shrink to, so an easy fix.

So far connectors seem in great shape for an 18 year old naked bike. A testament to superseal quality connectors. I’m sure some of the other types of connectors will be doing less well, but I’m going to go over them a bit at a time as and when.

yellowfever · 08-10-2024, 02:55 AM

Well I finally installed the dedicated Keis heated vest lead. Shortened lead and added a different waterproof fuse holder attached with rubber lined P clip to metal upright that supports air box. Again put some protective sheathing/heat shrink on cables and ended with crimped plugs that fit the healtech quick connect sockets.

At the other end I used an adapted rubber lined p clip to fasten the Keis socket to the top of the LH carbon side pod using the Allen screw that holds the pod on. This places the socket discretely in the small gap between the seat and the side pod and also allows the socket and lead to be slightly pulled out, both to help with easy connection and allow some give / movement to ensure correct forced unplug socket orientation for the inevitable forgetting to unplug first dismounts…

Some photos:

Healtech box and wires set up, tight but works nicely

Switch fastened to metal air box support with P clip. This switch changes the healtech between ignition triggered mode and auto mode. I took the ignition feed from the previously taken ignition feed for the GPS and heated grips that a mechanic had installed tapping into the rear brake switch, to avoid any further changes to the original loom. I took the opportunity to repair and neaten up that feed with a Y split bullet connector and glue lined heat shrink whilst at it.

yellowfever · 08-10-2024, 03:08 AM

The Keis heated vest socket. The rubber lined P clip holds it nicely but the cap lanyard adds a bit more security/also allows it to be pulled out a limited amount when uncapped for easy connection/better orienting during unplanned violent disconnection during dozy dismounts forgetting to unplug first.

And this is the fuse I added in place of the original. Again using a P clip and the metal air box support to secure it.

Mr Gazza · 08-10-2024, 09:39 AM

I don't mind a dozy dismount myself, but the thought of an unplanned violent disconnection is quite alarming!

I use 5v USB driven heated vest and long johns. Those pull out easily if you forget to unplug before walking off.
I'm going to give the cheap eastern gear another shot this winter. It's been great for the most part, but it did fail to keep up on one 200 mile day out in just 5 degrees.
I might splash out and get the proper Keis gear if it falls short again, but my power take off options are 5 or 14 Volts. Plenty of battery power to go at though at 17.5Kwh.

Liking your installations, very neat and always so satisfying to do nicely, especially if you're un-bodging somebody else's attempts.

12-09-2024, 11:28 PM	#1
yellowfever Bronze Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: London Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 251	Rolling refresh - electrical stuff So whilst waiting for split ring for engine timing shaft seal refitting I’ve been enjoying making some progress on electrics. First I removed a very clunky old Garmin Zumo 660 GPS wiring harness (had loads of wires for hard wired headphones and mic that I never used and all the wires in one cable and hardwired into GPS cradle so you can’t easily ditch them). Now cables are off the bike I’ll try to strip and adapt cable for just power via USB in case I want to use GPS in future. Will be a last resort tho’ as Garmin announced my “lifetime maps” subscription will never be updated again after this month as unit becoming obsolete… In place of that I have fitted an ultimate addons waterproof phone case (excellent customer service, and decent looking products, will see how it is in use) to the RAM mount the GPS cradle was on. This way I can use phone navigation, going to try a few different apps and see what I like. To power the phone when needed I also fitted combined voltmeter and twin USB cockpit power supply on handlebars unit has an on/off switch too and voltage reading seems accurate when compared with my multimeter. I did have to snip the too long cables and refit the fuse but not difficult and I used good quality fittings to do it, so should be reliable. Again will see how it does.

13-09-2024, 07:19 PM	#6
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,736	I lost a week old iphone4 in UAO tough case in between Buggenhout and Moerzeke years back, I hadn’t clipped it in properly and it wasn’t on a lanyard or charging cable. I was overtaking the convoy after blocking a roundabout so ‘making good progress’. At the next lights JP said ‘something came off your bike’ and crust said ‘it bounced over my head’, while we were looking for it on the verge a Dutch guy stopped and said ‘your satnav landed about 300m that way’. When we found it the case was trashed but the phone was mint :-) co pilot allows different vehicle profiles, which is nice. I have a bike profile that avoids motorways and towns and a car profile that prefers motorways. Last edited by slob; 13-09-2024 at 07:23 PM..

08-10-2024, 09:39 AM	#15
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,976	I don't mind a dozy dismount myself, but the thought of an unplanned violent disconnection is quite alarming! I use 5v USB driven heated vest and long johns. Those pull out easily if you forget to unplug before walking off. I'm going to give the cheap eastern gear another shot this winter. It's been great for the most part, but it did fail to keep up on one 200 mile day out in just 5 degrees. I might splash out and get the proper Keis gear if it falls short again, but my power take off options are 5 or 14 Volts. Plenty of battery power to go at though at 17.5Kwh. Liking your installations, very neat and always so satisfying to do nicely, especially if you're un-bodging somebody else's attempts. __________________

12-09-2024, 11:30 PM	#2
yellowfever Bronze Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: London Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 251	Also took the opportunity to tidy up heated grips wiring which had been installed rather shonkily by a pro with some rather dodgy messy soldering and a bit of now failing electrical tape. To be fair he did install to an ‘only live with ignition on’ feed so no flat butteries over the years (useful these are old grips produced before the fancy auto shut off ones that you can get now). I was not super happy the feed was from rear brake switch as wires look pretty thin and GPS was also powered through this, but I guess it’s a circuit you can do without in a pinch, so that was probably the logic along with only one circuit tapped so less messing with original loom. Anyway they worked fine for many years so I guess he is vindicated and it was entirely reasonable function over form.. For this electrical refresh I fitted a healtech unit to organise my electrical accessories better. It’s wired direct to the battery but is meant to auto switch on and off etc. But there’s also an option to have it triggered on and off by an ignition feed instead, which apparently can be necessary instead of the automatic mode for some bikes and/or in some cases when charging the battery. . Given I was removing an existing ignition feed I took the opportunity to wire this feed up the the healtech. I’ll probably make it switchable when I’ve more time (can plug/unplug bullet connector for now) then I’ve got both options easily eg if I want to leave it automatic except when battery charging through my powerlet socket. Also gave battery posts and connections a good clean and removed the earth chassis connection to clean and refit it including replacing the damaged powerlet earth contact which also grounds here. Still to fit a dedicated Keiss heated vest socket to healtech but that’s for another day. Been using the powerlet socket with lead I swapped plug on for DIN plug myself. One drawback was losing the fuse and having to rely on the powerlet fuse which has quite a high fuse rating for battery charging and using my mini travel air compressor. Although I checked this was OK with Keiss, I was never 100% happy with this set up and so prefer to install and use the original (lower fused) lead on a dedicated feed. My thoughts on this were reinforced inspecting my powerlet to Keiss lead and finding it has partly melted on the exhaust due to me having made it a little longer than strictly ideal to enable getting on and off the bike without violently unplugging myself.

12-09-2024, 11:33 PM	#3
yellowfever Bronze Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: London Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 251	Got to say I quite enjoyed this, slow but steady progress and quite satisfying organising it all neatly. More fun than the oil leak/new seal job anyway! Only annoyance was forgetting to slide heat shrink on before fitting terminals (twice!). So extra crimping practice was had… Will have to wait until bike back on road to test out new navigation and check all is reliable. But so far so good…

13-09-2024, 09:26 AM	#4
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,736	I also found ultimate add ons excellent over the years. I settled on co pilot gps app on iphone and bought ‘europe’ and, later ‘africa’ maps, although you can settle for smaller regions such as just ‘western europe’ my biggest problem was not turning off cellular data for map updates, which left me dowloading gigs of maps over a slow connection while i should have been travelling, lesson learned rtfm!”

13-09-2024, 02:11 PM	#5
yellowfever Bronze Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: London Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 251	Hi Rob, good to know you also find Ultimate addons kit good. Obviously no long term test yet for me, but I was very impressed with customer service (lady even found staff member with same model phone as me to test which case and inserts would work best for me) and product looks solid, so encouraging so far. Not heard of Co-pilot app, I’ll check it out. For fun rides/planning I am also checking out Go Ride and Calimoto based on other recommendations. Plus Waze is very good when you just want to get somewhere fast/direct (rather than a nice planned route) as excellent avoidances and accident/camera alerts etc

14-09-2024, 11:40 AM	#7
yellowfever Bronze Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: London Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 251	Wow! That is robust! Tho’ I hope not to test my case quite that thoroughly Sounds good, gonna download it and look into it. Just got notification Go Ride app is discontinued as of tomorrow shame as it got good reviews and allowed GPX import (it’s by Tom Tom). They have an alternative app now apparently…

16-09-2024, 10:07 AM	#8
dunf Registered User Join Date: Jan 2022 Location: Dunfermline Bike: M1200s Posts: 33	Last year i started to look at similar wiring install for heated gloves / vest but then came across an article that suggested my Monster already came pre-fitted from factory with an ignition live aux feed under the tank. Intended for heated grips apparently. All i had to do was buy the opposing connection piece and run the wire. Happy days.

17-09-2024, 02:33 PM	#11
yellowfever Bronze Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: London Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 251	That’s neat , no such option on my S2R sadly. There’s apparently an unused always live berth in the fuse box on my bike that can be wired up and used eg for battery charging. But as I installed an excellent bespoke for my model powerlet socket direct to battery and chassis earth many years ago I’ve never bothered to use this spare fuse box berth. As it’s always live I prefer an ignition live feed instead for same reasons as you.

20-09-2024, 05:09 PM	#12
yellowfever Bronze Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: London Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 251	As further light relief during timing oil seal work, I did a bit more refining of this healtech install. I custom shortened all the cables to and from it taking the opportunity to put protective sheathing over the wires and re-crimping ends with either heat shrink terminals or ones that fit into the healtech quick connect bus (rather than just using bare wires as they suggest). I also installed a small switch so I can easily operate the healtech either in auto mode or ignition triggered. The latter mode can be useful for battery charging or for instance if I want to make the voltmeter live before starting engine. It was all pretty tight and fiddly, so it took quite a while. But I am very happy with the outcome, it’s neat and the switch is nicely hidden/protected from weather but still easily accessible under the edge of the tank next to the fuse box. I also briefly tested everything and healtech auto mode seems to work fine - it keeps everything powered off until it senses the engine has been started and is ticking over in steady rhythm with steady charge from alternator. It stays live for a few seconds after shutdown before auto shutting off. In ignition triggered mode it comes on (again with a few seconds delay) once ignition turned on, so eg I can read voltmeter without starting engine if I want to. And again it shuts off with a few seconds delay once the ignition is turned off. I’ve got to install one final accessory into the healtech, the dedicated Keiss heated vest lead. Comes with a nice waterproof but egregiously large fuse holder and rather long wires, so some surgery will be required once I figure out routing/where I can fit the fuse (or whether to swap to another smaller fuse holder). I also sorted cleaning and checking and repairing wiring and connections as I came across them for this or for the oil seal change. I found a split wire sheath showing bare wire on the oil pressure sensor. Tricky location but I managed to sort it fairly neatly with two coats of some liquid electrical ‘tape’ and then glue lined heat shrink. 95% of the time was spent wrestling the heatshrink over the rubber boot which couldn’t be removed without butchering the loom. And most of the rest of the time was disassembling the superseal connector. I also found a damaged outer sheath on another wire in that area, but this was easier to get glue lined heat shrink to, so an easy fix. So far connectors seem in great shape for an 18 year old naked bike. A testament to superseal quality connectors. I’m sure some of the other types of connectors will be doing less well, but I’m going to go over them a bit at a time as and when.

08-10-2024, 02:55 AM	#13
yellowfever Bronze Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: London Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 251	Well I finally installed the dedicated Keis heated vest lead. Shortened lead and added a different waterproof fuse holder attached with rubber lined P clip to metal upright that supports air box. Again put some protective sheathing/heat shrink on cables and ended with crimped plugs that fit the healtech quick connect sockets. At the other end I used an adapted rubber lined p clip to fasten the Keis socket to the top of the LH carbon side pod using the Allen screw that holds the pod on. This places the socket discretely in the small gap between the seat and the side pod and also allows the socket and lead to be slightly pulled out, both to help with easy connection and allow some give / movement to ensure correct forced unplug socket orientation for the inevitable forgetting to unplug first dismounts… Some photos: Healtech box and wires set up, tight but works nicely Switch fastened to metal air box support with P clip. This switch changes the healtech between ignition triggered mode and auto mode. I took the ignition feed from the previously taken ignition feed for the GPS and heated grips that a mechanic had installed tapping into the rear brake switch, to avoid any further changes to the original loom. I took the opportunity to repair and neaten up that feed with a Y split bullet connector and glue lined heat shrink whilst at it.

08-10-2024, 03:08 AM	#14
yellowfever Bronze Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: London Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 251	The Keis heated vest socket. The rubber lined P clip holds it nicely but the cap lanyard adds a bit more security/also allows it to be pulled out a limited amount when uncapped for easy connection/better orienting during unplanned violent disconnection during dozy dismounts forgetting to unplug first. And this is the fuse I added in place of the original. Again using a P clip and the metal air box support to secure it.