Tightening that SSA wheel nut.

iainw · 27-01-2021, 03:14 PM

Getting it off hasn’t been a problem, I just wazzed it off with the impact gun, but tightening it has always given me grief. Parking the front wheel against the wall and getting SWMBO to sit on the bike with it in gear and the brake on wasn’t the best. How do I stop the wheel turning, I thought of a disc lock, but it wouldn’t fit in the space, so I came up with this.

Turn the hub until it rests on the calliper bracket.

Wheel on, torque it up!

slob · 27-01-2021, 04:04 PM

Might end up bending the disc?

Chunk of 2x2 timber against a spoke and right through the paddock stand is my favourite (as long as you have the right type of stand of course)

iainw · 27-01-2021, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

Might end up bending the disc?.....

That was my reasoning for putting it as close to the centre as I could.

Luddite · 27-01-2021, 05:05 PM

I'm lucky, my DP paddock stand has a tube welded to the frame to accommodate a solid bar, which goes through the spokes in much the same way as slob's piece of wood. Works a treat!

Ron1000 · 27-01-2021, 05:29 PM

It’s honestly not that hard. 176nm. Wheel on deck and someone holding brake and front of the bike.

That bolt setup looks sketchy at best.

30-01-2021, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron1000

It’s honestly not that hard. 176nm. Wheel on deck and someone holding brake and front of the bike.

That bolt setup looks sketchy at best.

I can't always rely on having an assistant, so I use an ABBA stand and a ratchet strap. Hook the strap over the ABBA stand where it fits into the swing arm bolt, through the back wheel and take up the slack with the ratchet. Works for loosening as well as tightening if you adjust where the strap goes through the wheel. If you use a paddock stand then you can hook the strap on a frame tube/footrest bracket

Omar · 27-01-2021, 05:32 PM

Luddite, is your stand just for the Evo or is it a more general fit? I am hoping to pick up a paddock stand second hand. I bought an Abba stand when I got the monster, but it is a bit of a pain for regular use, so looking for something more user friendly. The fact that yours will lock the wheel is a bonus.

Luddite · 27-01-2021, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Omar

Luddite, is your stand just for the Evo or is it a more general fit? I am hoping to pick up a paddock stand second hand. I bought an Abba stand when I got the monster, but it is a bit of a pain for regular use, so looking for something more user friendly. The fact that your will lock the wheel is a bonus.

I originally bought the stand for my S2R, Omar, so it fits that and the S4R plus I also believe it fits the 916/748 model line, the Diavel and M1200. Probably the old Streetfighters too and maybe others.

slob · 27-01-2021, 06:56 PM

Locking tube: 25mm OD... so either a l/h grip from a Harley’ or r/h grip from anything else

I thought DP stands had a big c-clip on the end of the pin so you could change it?

Luddite · 28-01-2021, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

I thought DP stands had a big c-clip on the end of the pin so you could change it?

I just checked mine, Rob, and it does have the large circlip holding the pin in, but it didn't come with an alternative. There seems to have been two variants available at the time; the one I have (967040AAA) with just the one pin and another (96757207BA) with two interchangeable pins.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedro

Pin diameter is bigger on Diaval and 1200 Monsters - also the new Multistradas. All use the “big” axle

I remember checking suitability a couple of years back and saw that the same stand that was listed for the S2R and M1100 was also shown for the Diavel and M1200 but that must have been because it came with two pins to suit both model range, so apologies for any confusion.

slob · 28-01-2021, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luddite

...it does have the large circlip holding the pin in, but it didn't come with an alternative...

Utopia made me a new headstock pin for a (GSXR) Micron stand I got cheap on fleabay a few years ago, I’ve since got my own small lathe and have turned various replacement pins for people. If it can be measured, it can be made :-D

crust · 30-01-2021, 12:43 PM

I use one of these when working on my mountain bikes, brilliant bit of kit, saves loads of time and possibility of stripped threads.

https://www.topeak.com/global/en/pro...s/767-TORQUE-6

Rob, sorry to hear you've been in the wars.

slob · 30-01-2021, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crust

... saves loads of time and possibility of stripped threads ...

Or worse, if you’re doing up a clamp round a carbon tube, which is getting ever more common on bicycles these days.

Dukedesmo · 28-01-2021, 09:13 AM

AFAIK Ducati use two sizes of stand spindle; the smaller (originally made for 916) fits the smaller hub SSSA bikes and the larger (originally made for 1098) fits the later, more powerful bikes (1098, 1198, 1200 etc.) the most obvious difference visually is the smaller hubs have a 5-bolt sprocket carrier and the larger a 6-bolt carrier.

I have a 916 and have always managed to torque up the nut whilst bike on paddock stand, holding it with the rear brake. Use moly grease on the threads and have a long torque wrench with a well-fitting socket - most conventional sockets have a chamfer at the opening and this means you don't get enough purchase on the slim wheel nut and slipping can end in injury - I had the (46mm socket) chamfer machined off so that it's got a nice 'sharp' edge.

Mr Gazza · 28-01-2021, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rollo22

the easiest way i find is to use a rattle gun.
Just remember to put grease in all the right places before trying to do it up.

I've been told that rattle guns shouldn't be relied upon for an accurate torque. I've never used one for doing up, only undoing.
Apparently you can use a torque stick of a pre-set value to control the rattle gun's torque.
My quick search did not find one of 176NM or 130 lbft but I'm sure that one could be found?

They look like this..

27-01-2021, 03:14 PM	#1
iainw Registered User Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Preston Bike: S4r Posts: 61	Tightening that SSA wheel nut. Getting it off hasn’t been a problem, I just wazzed it off with the impact gun, but tightening it has always given me grief. Parking the front wheel against the wall and getting SWMBO to sit on the bike with it in gear and the brake on wasn’t the best. How do I stop the wheel turning, I thought of a disc lock, but it wouldn’t fit in the space, so I came up with this. Turn the hub until it rests on the calliper bracket. Wheel on, torque it up!

27-01-2021, 05:32 PM	#7
Omar Registered User Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: grimsby Bike: M1100evo Posts: 95	Luddite, is your stand just for the Evo or is it a more general fit? I am hoping to pick up a paddock stand second hand. I bought an Abba stand when I got the monster, but it is a bit of a pain for regular use, so looking for something more user friendly. The fact that yours will lock the wheel is a bonus. Last edited by Omar; 27-01-2021 at 05:39 PM..

27-01-2021, 06:56 PM	#9
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,712	Locking tube: 25mm OD... so either a l/h grip from a Harley’ or r/h grip from anything else I thought DP stands had a big c-clip on the end of the pin so you could change it? Last edited by slob; 27-01-2021 at 06:59 PM..

28-01-2021, 09:13 AM	#14
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,844	AFAIK Ducati use two sizes of stand spindle; the smaller (originally made for 916) fits the smaller hub SSSA bikes and the larger (originally made for 1098) fits the later, more powerful bikes (1098, 1198, 1200 etc.) the most obvious difference visually is the smaller hubs have a 5-bolt sprocket carrier and the larger a 6-bolt carrier. I have a 916 and have always managed to torque up the nut whilst bike on paddock stand, holding it with the rear brake. Use moly grease on the threads and have a long torque wrench with a well-fitting socket - most conventional sockets have a chamfer at the opening and this means you don't get enough purchase on the slim wheel nut and slipping can end in injury - I had the (46mm socket) chamfer machined off so that it's got a nice 'sharp' edge. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

27-01-2021, 04:04 PM	#2
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,712	Might end up bending the disc? Chunk of 2x2 timber against a spoke and right through the paddock stand is my favourite (as long as you have the right type of stand of course)

27-01-2021, 05:05 PM	#4
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	I'm lucky, my DP paddock stand has a tube welded to the frame to accommodate a solid bar, which goes through the spokes in much the same way as slob's piece of wood. Works a treat!

27-01-2021, 05:29 PM	#5
Ron1000 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Livingston Bike: M1100evo Posts: 863	It’s honestly not that hard. 176nm. Wheel on deck and someone holding brake and front of the bike. That bolt setup looks sketchy at best.

30-01-2021, 12:43 PM	#12
crust rattles when he walks Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: in the comfy chair,moved furniture around Bike: M900 Posts: 1,065	I use one of these when working on my mountain bikes, brilliant bit of kit, saves loads of time and possibility of stripped threads. https://www.topeak.com/global/en/pro...s/767-TORQUE-6 Rob, sorry to hear you've been in the wars.