Monster FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions

This post was originally posted and maintained by diogenes

We lost it a while back... but it is back!
I will try to maintain it unless Diogenes would like to take again!



Frequently Asked Questions - Work In progress

This page is currently under construction and is being updated and edited daily.. Please do not post unless there is a serious error! Or you have a good conribution that I could add in the correct section!

New Items Added: 5 September.



How to use this database.

To help get the most from this page and answer your question please read the following.

1. Monster Model. If you wish to find articles that mention the model of your Monster press Control F (Macintosh Command F) and type in your model i.e. M900. This will give you any Question & Answer subjects that cover your model.

2. Specific Query. You have two choices: look under the appropriate alphabetical heading or do a find - as above. When doing a search only use one keyword e.g. timing rather than timing marks.

3. Where there are appropriate links to the subject they will be shown with the answer. If you need other links please go to the links page.

4. This page is best viewed and saved in the printable version. To change, go to the bottom and click 'show printable version'.



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Q. Cam Belts. What is the correct way to fit cambelts? I have heard the Allen key method discussed for checking tension, how is this done?, I have used the 45deg twist method but would like to know if there is a a different method to do a double check?

What is the preferred method for turning the engine over to align the timing marks ?

A. Detailed information on cam belt adjustment can be found at www.ducatisuite.com

A. Turning over the engine.
Put the bike on a paddock stand or axle stands with the rear wheel off the ground. Remove the spark plugs. place it in gear and turn the wheel by hand.

You can also turn over the engine with an 8mm bolt and nut. Screw the nut about 10mm down the bolt, screw the bolt into the end of the crankshaft ( the nut stops the bolt going in too far) and then turn it with a 13mm socket.

Q. Chain Cleaning How should I clean my chain and how often. Do you also have any recommended lubricants?

A. Clean with either parafin or diesel (making sure not to coat the tyres!!) and allow to dry. You may need to wipe it over with a suitable cloth to shift diesel but parafin should dry ok.

Do not use a wire brush as this may damage the 'O' rings.

Lubrication is best done every 200-300 miles or more frequent depending on riding conditions e.g. salt, grit. It is also advisable to lubricate the chain when the chain is hot - after a ride!

There are a number of lubricants on the market. Some of those used and recommended by our members include:

Profi Dry Lube from Heine Gericke

Castrol Chain Wax

Finish Line Krytek

You may also want to consider one of the automatic chain oliers made by Scott Oiler or Motrax. Scott Oiler are about to launch a new oiler for bikes with limited space.

Cans See under Silencers

Q. Clutch Plates. I am thinking of changing the clutch plates on my M900 1996 model. Can anybody offer me advice please?

A. Remove the cover.
Remove the six spring retaining bolts (remember to undo each bolt a few turns at a time then move on to the next so they come off evenly).
Remove the pressure plate with the bearing.
Remove the plates, noting the order in which they came off.
Reassembly is the reverse. You should be able to do all this with a set of allen keys.

A. While doing above, get a can of Brake Cleaner and clean all the components. Try not to get on the plates themselves. Check the release bearing in the driven plate is free to rotate, if not it is cheap and it's only a heat fit. Place the plate in boiling water for a few minutes and then drift/tap it out. Fitting is the same: boil the plate, put bearing in fridge for a few hours then tap it in. Take out the pushrod too, and clean with wire wool and WD40. Replace the 2 o-rings. Check the clutch slave cylinder for leaks. They do leak! I think three allen bolts will see this off, but DO NOT press the clutch lever until it's back in place!! Replace the 6 clutch springs a little at a time like removal and don't forget a little Thread Lock on the threads. A simple task but to make it easier get a Haynes Manual. As for the torque settings. There is nothing listed in Haynes so hand tight and a little more should do it. If you need the part number of the bearing, contact Spacemonkey. They can be bought from
Bearing Services - they are special order and take about a week. You should also check the "seal" over the clutch piston - it's not a good design but very cheap - about £2.

A. Clutch spring screws - I chose to lock them up. They all go fully home unlike old British bikes where you have to adjust them to make the outer plate lift evenly. I would also put a blob of grease on the little needle roller that lives inside the shaft and supports the cluch pushrod - it makes a real mess if it breaks up.



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Q. Seat. I am looking for a seat that is comfortable for myself and partner on long journeys. Do you have any suggestions?

A. There are a number of manufacturers that make seats for the Monster. Two of the reccomended ones are given below. Don't forget: pay by Credit Card in case things go wrong. You may also want to read some of the postings on the American Ducati Monster List. See the click- links page.

www.corbin.com/ducati/monster.shtml

www.motostrano-store.com/dumosase.html


Q. Silencers I would like to replace my stock silencers with some that make a lot of noise and that look good. Do you have any suggestions?

A. You really want to know! Below are some of the opinions of UKMOC members. If after reading through all the opinions you can't make up your mind, here is a tip. Go along to one of the ride outs or track days and listen to the bikes. Have a chat with the owners and they will tell you all the pros and cons.

Carbon Fibre v Others

Shiny would be my preference as I found satin finishes tend to look second hand if scratched - polished cans could be repolished if scratched.

For you carbon fibre haters, Arrows Titanium look the business!

I've got Carbon and they roar!

I want carbon, but am concerned with the comments that say they melt!

I have high level Sils carbons. I've not noticed them melting (or even being hot in the 10,000 miles they've been on.
They're not LOUD but they do sound wonderful, and they've been through 2 MOT's.

I melted a pair of carbons in about two weeks - but I think that is me!

I decided to go for metal ones after i burned out the carbons, for two reasons: 1. They are stronger and will last longer. 2. The weight loss of carbon cans will make zero difference to a naked bike anyway.

I was told that carbon cracks after a while with a V-twin.

With carbon you need to watch out for the packing wearing thin. The heat from the exhaust then starts affecting the resin holding the carbon together. It tends to lose its solidity and turn to ash but it does take a very long time.

Art cans are very loud!

Regards carbon cans 'melting' - this is not really possible, as the carbon fibre is impregnated in a resin, which will not melt.

What tends to happen on lesser quality carbon (ie thinner weave) is that either the UV attacks the resin, causing it to de-laminate and weaken, or with a thinner wall section the power pulses in the exhaust can cause the carbon to flex and eventually crack.

You also get a different sound - metal cans hold the noise in a little better, so you get a deeper note, carbon tends to be a little higher pitched.

It's best to stick to reputable brands such as Termignoni, Remus, and Leos. If you're going for carbon. they will eventually start to de-laminate due to UV, it's just a question of how long. Buy some decent quality ones though, and they'll probably out last the bike.


http://www.artexhausts.com/art_uk.htm









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Q. Tail Removal. I'd like to remove the overhanging tail on my Monster. Has anybody done this and is it easy?

A. Yes. It is relatively easy, see the link below. You should however give careful thought as to whether you intend to keep the bike forever. Any serious modifications will reduce the trade in value at Dealers. Do not throw away the reflector. It will fail it's M.O.T. More to follow....


http://www.ducatimonster.org/faq/faq_tailchop.html



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Sincere Thanks to the following for their technical expertise and contributions. Without whom, this page would not be possible: Pedro, David T, SpaceMonkey, K@T, Rick, Billy BigWheels, Bruza, DesmoDom, Thibaud, GoalC, Mrs. Soup, BluFoot, Psychlist, Nik Codling

Can anyone contribute to this??
diogenes started a good job..

can anyone contribute ?
I am going to be moving this into the faq section of the forum :
UKMOC FAQ

how about the scottoiler thread and fitting a new rear tail to an old monster that i did?

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ead.php?t=7398

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ead.php?t=7318

Thanks ! ...
I will clean them up and post them....
Any more ?

carb warmers/ carb icing etc. has anyone removed them? I know this really only applies to early 600 s. the consensus is that they dont work that well and to tidy the front up a bit I was thinking about taking it off, if things go badly I can reattach easily enough. Mine was fine with hotter plugs and pro fst (plus Im a tad fair weather any away!) I realise most would say leave them on but considering the above could it really hurt to take them/it off? I mean the oil just loops back to the sump or pump right?
ta.
Alex

I might be responding in the wrong part of the forum here.....I noticed in the FAQs some stuff about carbon cans melting and cracking. I`m involved in the manufacture of carbon components and can give a reasonably well informed answer to these queries.
1] Melting Cans; carbon will only melt if the temperature of the component in usage significantly rises above the temperature it was cured at during production. A melted carbon can idicates a manufacturer who failed to appreciate the likely operating temperatures and cured the component at too low a temperature

2] Cracking; Carbon, unlike alloy or steel has no 'memory', therefore it can`t fatigue. In use it is possible that a component may be taken to a level where it can exceed the design parameters of the design and it only needs to exceed this once to create a catastrophic failure. If a can has cracked due to vibration it must [at some point] have exceeded the strength of the component. If it's made well enough and remains inside its predicted operating parameter it will last indefinitely.

Carbon is Good Stuff ! but it needs to be used appropriately, many motorcycle accessory manufacturers haven`t got a clue how to use it properly and the customers know even less. OE Ducati carbon is generally quite good, not perfect mind you, but pretty good.
Bob

Just my opinion, but the Tail-chop link given as part of the FAQ above is not as good as JMO's because the frame in your link is cut too short (in my opinion) and new number plate mount need not be constructed from scratch when the original one will do.

There was no mention of scorpion cans.

No need for rejeting according to scorpion as they are made specifically for the indidual monster models.

[Saint aka ML]

How about how to stop seat sliding in older monsters?
or very basic stuff like:
What spark plugs and how to change
What oil filter/oil and how to change
Where is fuel filter and how to change
Carb icing how to solve
...