M1100s Caliper Torque

[slob]

to prevent galvanic reaction between steel bolt and alloy fork leg/caliper hanger
and
to achieve the tightness the design engineers have calculated to be correct

[utopia]

Also, I always like to lube a thread if I can anyway.
In addition to guarding against galvanic corrosion, it prevents wear on subsequent/repeated removal/refitting.
This is particularly relevant for steel bolts in aluminium threads.

Another way of looking at it might be that, without lube on the threads, roughly twice the torque would be needed to achieve the desired clamping force.
This might require bigger dia bolts or ones with beefier heads.

Then there is the issue of stiction.
Without lube, the threads would become more "grabby" and it would be more difficult to apply precisely the right amount of torque, without overshooting.

[Luddite]

Good points from both slob and utopia.

Also, in theory at least, if you tried to apply the 'greased' torque to a dry thread, there could be a chance of shearing the bolt as the extra friction provided by the ungreased thread would cause more of the applied force to go into twisting the bolt rather than screwing it in and tensioning it.

Now, whether this has any noticeable effect in the real world is, perhaps, debateable. But, if the workshop manual gives a value and says the bolt should be greased, then who am I to argue?

[utopia]

I grease almost every thread (usually using moly grease), as long as it doesn't need loctite.
Even then, I will try to find a substitute locking method eg wire, lockwashers, substituting with nylock nuts/bolts etc so that I can lube the threads.

I also don't particularly like loctiting steel bolts into aluminium threads, as the loctite can sometimes prevent easy removal without damaging the soft ally threads (even if you warm it first).
Disc bolts are a case in point and I am currently considering getting a batch of nylock bolts made (titanium probably) so that those threads can be lightly greased too.