Belts Question (Again) (Sorry)M750

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by manwithredbike

And only one pulley will spring away from its timing mark from the valve spring, can't remember which but think it may be the front inlet??.

Front cylinder is at TDC when the pulleys line up, the rear is 'on the cam' and so may try to escape.

[motomartin11]

Phew...thanks so much for all replies.....I think I'll go for the pull spring test as I'm a total luddite on the tech front. last time I used a spring pull was back in the 70's when i used to weigh my course fishing catch!
I've returned from the office tonight armed with Tippex-they don't make it like they used to-it's so thin now.
Got to get on to Moto Rapido to order the new belts and then I'll take a look over the coming holiday and measure the belt tension before ,take some photos ,re-read this thread again and follow through on vids and other suggestions.
I hope you're right about the hardest part being the removal of the belt covers!
Thanks again........

[350TSS]

Tippex now water based to stop solvent abuse ?

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by motomartin11

Got to get on to Moto Rapido to order the new belts...

When you order, don't forget to mention you're a member of UKMOC and you'll get a 10% discount.

[motomartin11]

Originally Posted by 350TSS

Tippex now water based to stop solvent abuse ?

Yes,thanks-I ordered some front footrests recently and wasn't aware of the discount at the time.

[motomartin11]

Oops The above reply should have been attached to the post about the Moto Rapido discount. Sticky fingers!

[motomartin11]

Originally Posted by 350TSS

Tippex now water based to stop solvent abuse ?

Ah yes,that must be the reason. Jizer and Gunk not what they were either!

[Flip]

Originally Posted by motomartin11

Phew...thanks so much for all replies.....I think I'll go for the pull spring test as I'm a total luddite on the tech front. last time I used a spring pull was back in the 70's when i used to weigh my course fishing catch!
I've returned from the office tonight armed with Tippex-they don't make it like they used to-it's so thin now.
Got to get on to Moto Rapido to order the new belts and then I'll take a look over the coming holiday and measure the belt tension before ,take some photos ,re-read this thread again and follow through on vids and other suggestions.
I hope you're right about the hardest part being the removal of the belt covers!
Thanks again........

Exactly the same kind of spring balance I use- ‘Little Samson’. But unfortunately you won’t be able to measure the tension ‘before’ though as the tensioner bearings have to be loosened to pull on the spring balance to adjust it. What you can do though is check using the Allen key & twist methods to get a bit of a feel for how they are before you take them off.

A little tip is to crush the hook of the spring balance in a vice to allow it ‘grip’ between the bearings when your tensioning the belts (unless you make a little cup to sit over the bearings like I did).

Also if you aren’t already aware, make sure there isn’t much fuel in the tank when you lift it as the hinge can be a little weak and the twist caused by the tank prop can cause it to leak, the twist can be eliminated by using a piece of wood instead.

Now I love Moto Rapido and Craig and Luke are brilliantly knowledgable when it comes to genuine parts but with the prices of belts (for the 900 at least) being ‘brought in line’ with later models I have been using ExactFit belts for the last few years and found them and Stu who runs it great along with being much cheaper. Pre 1997 750 belts are less than £48 a pair posted- email Stu to arrange a ‘friends’ PayPal payment and he’ll give you 10% off too.

http://www.exactuk.com/exactfit-belt...price-payment/

[manwithredbike]

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

Front cylinder is at TDC when the pulleys line up, the rear is 'on the cam' and so may try to escape.

ah.... I knew it was one of them

[motomartin11]

Thank you.
Another point has occurred while continuing my research : is there any reason NOT to change one belt at a time or do you take both off and then fit the new ones?

[slob]

you can’t change the vertical one without taking the horizontal one off, so they’re both coming off at that point

[motomartin11]

Originally Posted by slob

you can’t change the vertical one without taking the horizontal one off, so they’re both coming off at that point

Right OK,thanks for clearing that up.

[Mr Gazza]

You can make life easier for yourself by slipping the oil line off the top of the oil cooler, so you can pull it out of the way. The starter cable is not quite so bad.
For the long term quite a few owners swap the oil lines for Hypermotard ones which route under the engine completely out of the way and out of sight. A 700mm starter lead will go over the pot and down the nearside of the engine to the starter achieving the same things.
Both those mods make timing belt changes a lot easier if you're serious about long term Monster ownership.

Don't bother taking the middle inspection cover off the belt covers just haul them of in one lump.

Most important thing I can tell you is to be mindful of the torque setting on the tensioner bolts when you final tighten them. I think it's 20Nm but confirm that figure before you nip them up. The threads in the engine are Heli-coiled from new. It's an important thread, so take care of it. Should the worst happen and it needs to be repaired, I am told that a Wurth insert can be used, which is oversized to a Heli-coil. (The screws are the same as disc bolts incidentally.)

After you've done your first belt change you'll wonder what all the worry was about..

[motomartin11]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

You can make life easier for yourself by slipping the oil line off the top of the oil cooler, so you can pull it out of the way. The starter cable is not quite so bad.
For the long term quite a few owners swap the oil lines for Hypermotard ones which route under the engine completely out of the way and out of sight. A 700mm starter lead will go over the pot and down the nearside of the engine to the starter achieving the same things.
Both those mods make timing belt changes a lot easier if you're serious about long term Monster ownership.

Don't bother taking the middle inspection cover off the belt covers just haul them of in one lump.

Most important thing I can tell you is to be mindful of the torque setting on the tensioner bolts when you final tighten them. I think it's 20Nm but confirm that figure before you nip them up. The threads in the engine are Heli-coiled from new. It's an important thread, so take care of it. Should the worst happen and it needs to be repaired, I am told that a Wurth insert can be used, which is oversized to a Heli-coil. (The screws are the same as disc bolts incidentally.)

After you've done your first belt change you'll wonder what all the worry was about..

Thanks-I hope you're last para proves to be true!

[motomartin11]

sorry "your"