Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Today's Posts | Search | Contact |
|
Registered
Members: 604 | Total Threads: 50,801 | Total Posts: 518,368 Currently Active Users: 288 (0 active members) Please welcome our newest member, terryjohn |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
16-11-2020, 10:25 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Southampton
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 2,465
|
I've not previously researched this subject, as I've never had to split my crankcases but, having a look at my reference books, I see that the workshop manual does actually explain how to carry out, what they call, the "Practical Method", as used by Andy in his video.
I'm sure you know this already, Richard, but, for the benefit of anyone else contemplating this job, here's the relevant extract from my Evo manual. Note that, while the workshop manual specifies a preload of 0.3mm, another engine rebuild book I have suggests that a better figure is between 0.15mm and 0.20mm. Out of interest, Richard, what preload have you used? |
21-04-2021, 07:56 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Reading
Bike: M900
Posts: 600
|
Quote:
I have read this "practical " method and watched the video of the same. In that method there you can only simply divide the clearance (plus .3mm preload ) by 2 and distribute evenly to each side of the crank. In the "full" Method you have the opprtunity to shim on each side to exactly centralise the crank on the centreline of the casings. I guess that not doing so makes negligible difference, does it?
__________________
Golf-My favourite game. While my wife plays I'm in the workshop. |
|
|