UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Engines, Clutch, Gears » Belts Question (Again) (Sorry)M750

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Old 17-12-2020, 10:06 AM   #31
Mr Gazza
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Don't bother taking the middle inspection cover off the belt covers just haul them of in one lump.
Just to clarify; The covers come off in two large lumps. The little covers are to check you still have belts between services.

My book says 19Nm for the fixed tensioner and 26Nm for the mobile tensioner.
It also says locktite 243 for both but I've never locktited mine.

Any other opinions on that?
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Old 17-12-2020, 11:47 AM   #32
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My book says 19Nm for the fixed tensioner and 26Nm for the mobile tensioner.
It also says locktite 243 for both but I've never locktited mine.

Any other opinions on that?
The workshop manual for the later 1100 Evo only mentions Loctite for the fixed roller (20Nm), the tensioner itself (26Nm) has neither grease nor Loctite.
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Old 17-12-2020, 01:12 PM   #33
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Just ordered the new belts from Moto Rapido-thought I'd stick to the standard ones-and I got the Forum discount too
Have also got a carbon fibre rear hugger as a Christmas present to me and the bike coming as well!
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Old 17-12-2020, 08:00 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Mr Gazza View Post
Just to clarify; The covers come off in two large lumps. The little covers are to check you still have belts between services.

My book says 19Nm for the fixed tensioner and 26Nm for the mobile tensioner.
It also says locktite 243 for both but I've never locktited mine.

Any other opinions on that?
Nope, I’ve never used thread-lock on mine.

In fact I’ve never torqued them either. The hex bolts are a little cheese like if you don’t use a good fitting socket-type hex key but it’s best to use a long reach one to avoid the ‘socket’ part from affecting the angle into the bolt.

Like these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123667398244

Don’t be tempted by the ‘ball end’ type as the reduced diameter of the waist means they can’t take as much torque.
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Old 31-12-2020, 06:29 PM   #35
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Well the belts have arrived and so has the spring balance. Apart from belt change ,bike is ready for MOT and then if it passes should be good to go. I'm still swotting up on belt research. I know it's not essential but I'd feel happier if the engine can be locked once the timing marks are in correct position and I've seen some tools which can be used to lock the motor. Do any of you actually lock the motor and if so what's the best way to do this please?
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Old 31-12-2020, 09:59 PM   #36
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When I bought my Monster twenty years ago I had never done belts on a Ducati and I simply followed the Haynes manual which is why I used (and still favour) the spring balance method- there was no mention of locking the cam wheels in the manual so I didn’t and I never have since.

My advice, a bit of white paint on the makers make it easier to check they’re all in line, before you remove the belts get a feel for the existing tension as a reference.

Mark the spring balance with the required pull force.

Then make sure your hex key is a good fit on the adjusters and don’t bother with a locking tool- it’ll be fine.
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Old 02-01-2021, 12:00 PM   #37
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When I bought my Monster twenty years ago I had never done belts on a Ducati and I simply followed the Haynes manual which is why I used (and still favour) the spring balance method- there was no mention of locking the cam wheels in the manual so I didn’t and I never have since.

My advice, a bit of white paint on the makers make it easier to check they’re all in line, before you remove the belts get a feel for the existing tension as a reference.

Mark the spring balance with the required pull force.

Then make sure your hex key is a good fit on the adjusters and don’t bother with a locking tool- it’ll be fine.
Well I've got my Haynes at the ready too -noting they use the spring tension method.

Fortunately my mate ,who's a very experienced bike mechanic and restorer , has offered to show me the ropes, so as soon as time , Covid, the weather and MOT permit I shall be taking him up on his very kind offer.
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Old 02-01-2021, 01:31 PM   #38
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As the others have said, once you've done them you'll be laughing at how much thought you've put into changing them.

As above, use a good condition allen key to undo the tensioners - not a ball ended one.

I undo the oil cooler mounting bolts, it's only two bolts, it makes it easier to thread the covers. I take a piece of cardboard, draw a rough L shape and poke the cover bolts through it so I know which one came out of where.

Plugs out, bike in a high gear and rotate engine until the marks line up. Twist the belts so you get an idea of how much you can twist them, use a 5 + 6mm allen key to get an idea of how easy it is to slide them past the tensioners.

I use the allen key method, but there's nothing wrong with other methods, more than one way to skin a cat etc.

Getting the belts on can be fun, I use a small flat blade screwdriver to tease the belt on a little at a time - do this gently, they will fit - honest.

I would advise against loctite on the tensioner bolts as they can be a pig to get undone without any extra help.

When you've tensioned them as said above spin the motor over a few times and check the tension with a twist and the allen keys just to re-assure yourself.

With belts its better to be a little loose than too tight.

Takes about 30mins and a mug of coffee normally. Don't forget to write in the front of your manual the date and mileage you changed them, saves a lot of head scratching in a couple of years time.
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Old 02-01-2021, 01:45 PM   #39
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Getting the belts on can be fun, I use a small flat blade screwdriver to tease the belt on a little at a time - do this gently, they will fit - honest.
How come you have to do that? I usually just hoop-la them on from the other end of the workshop.
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Old 02-01-2021, 01:54 PM   #40
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As the others have said, once you've done them you'll be laughing at how much thought you've put into changing them.

As above, use a good condition allen key to undo the tensioners - not a ball ended one.

I undo the oil cooler mounting bolts, it's only two bolts, it makes it easier to thread the covers. I take a piece of cardboard, draw a rough L shape and poke the cover bolts through it so I know which one came out of where.

Plugs out, bike in a high gear and rotate engine until the marks line up. Twist the belts so you get an idea of how much you can twist them, use a 5 + 6mm allen key to get an idea of how easy it is to slide them past the tensioners.

I use the allen key method, but there's nothing wrong with other methods, more than one way to skin a cat etc.

Getting the belts on can be fun, I use a small flat blade screwdriver to tease the belt on a little at a time - do this gently, they will fit - honest.

I would advise against loctite on the tensioner bolts as they can be a pig to get undone without any extra help.

When you've tensioned them as said above spin the motor over a few times and check the tension with a twist and the allen keys just to re-assure yourself.

With belts its better to be a little loose than too tight.

Takes about 30mins and a mug of coffee normally. Don't forget to write in the front of your manual the date and mileage you changed them, saves a lot of head scratching in a couple of years time.
Thanks - and to all other posters. I'm extremely confident once my mate has shown me I'll be able to do them easily enough myself.

I'm fairly anal about keeping records-to the extent of doing a rough mpg check after each fill up of fuel .Goes back to the distant days of points ignition and two stroke engines I think.

What was mainly worrying me was if i stripped a thread on a tensioner bolt or the bearings were on the way out.

Everything you've said above sums up nicely what I've discovered about this job.

TBH I can't wait to get out on the bike now. Apart from the belts it's ready to go .I've tidied up a few corroded fasteners ,polished up everything I can, changed the oil and filter ,cleaned out the gauze filter ,re-gapped the plugs, checked the air filter (which is a K & N foam type)had the worn seat recovered and put on a CF hugger. It was tidy when I bought the bike so I'm very pleased with how it looks now. Some patina, fairly original and not too bad at all for a 25 year old bike.

I've tried to post a pic as my signature but I think there are too many pixels (not very PC literate I'm afraid).
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Old 02-01-2021, 03:46 PM   #41
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How come you have to do that? I usually just hoop-la them on from the other end of the workshop.
My cambelt pulleys have a circular plate on the outside (I presume to keep the belt on) which makes it difficult to feed the belt onto the pulley even with the belt pushed firmly into the grooves on the other pulley.

Once partially over the 'keeper' it slides on easily, just needs teasing over the first bit.
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Old 10-04-2021, 07:19 PM   #42
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As a post script to this thread I finally made it over to my mate's at Solihull today for the belt change at last. The ones on the bike were OK but just starting to fray. It's just as well I didn't try to do this myself as one of the tensioner bolts on the horizontal pot was corroded in and the allen head was rounded.. My mate had to have to goes at welding on a nut / bolt to be able to use enough force to undo it. Bearings are OK on the tensioners but a bit of dressing to corrosion spots on the pulleys was necessary. Had a lovely 25 mile ride home on the M42 in the rain to be met by snow on the ground when I got home.The forecast was cold and dry (not).
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