Slow Monster rebuild - Page 2

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 04:43 PM

I also soon realised that when it came to removing the engine it would be easier for me alone in the garage to remove the frame from the engine so I needed an engine stand which I knocked up out of some old gas barrel and two bits of angle iron. More by luck than judgement I managed to make it so that it can be withdrawn between the front wheel and the front pot.

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17-10-2019, 07:48 AM

Beautiful work, keep up and keep us posted.

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 04:45 PM

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Chriswilly · 29-08-2021, 04:16 PM

Sorry - I don't wish to blitz this link BUT would like to contact ZIMBO (Stonehouse) at some time to possibly view his 'Dukes' and perhaps learn something for the future -
have spent hours on the site to find his e mail address without sucess.

Sorry.

walkingpictures · 29-08-2021, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chriswilly

Sorry - I don't wish to blitz this link BUT would like to contact ZIMBO (Stonehouse) at some time to possibly view his 'Dukes' and perhaps learn something for the future -
have spent hours on the site to find his e mail address without sucess.

Sorry.

He was on here yesterday,have you tried sending him a Private Message?

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 04:47 PM

The strip down continued and the biggest issue for me was what to do first, I knew I wanted a two into one exhaust (to save weight) and I also wanted a parallelogram floating rear caliper hanger. I cannot weld very tidily as seen on the engine stand and thin stainless steel tube would be well beyond me so the exhaust would have to be done by competent others. The positioning of the anchor point for the reaction rod for the parallelogram rear brake could influence the exhaust position exiting on the RH side.
I also wanted a single seat and tidying up of the rear end.

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 04:56 PM

Meanwhile, after scouring the internet, I got a new clutch slave cylinder from China c£55 and an alloy clutch basket from Italia c£80.
I still needed new alloy clutch plates and an alloy clutch hub. New Suzuki GS 550 alloy friction plates were bought for about a third of the price of Ducati ones. The original steel friction plates would tear up the new alloy hub and the old steel hub was badly fretted. That was my justification for buying them anyway but the reality was that the weight saving was significant. When it is cold and not pleasant in the garage I will produce a schedule of all the weight saved.
New rear set footrests came from somewhere recommended on the Desmodue website, £110, very good quality but lacking a brake light switch position. A Chinese pressure switch was acquired for £3.50.

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350TSS · 02-01-2017, 05:06 PM

The passenger grab rails had to go so out with the angle grinder, the first time I have ever butchered a frame and this was the point where the rebuild became irreversible. I thought long and hard before doing it- should I just do a complete original restoration? or should I build the bike that I wanted? Well it is done now!

imageupload

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350TSS · 02-01-2017, 05:19 PM

Stupid Mistake
Stripping the engine I got hold of an alternator case removal tool from Seeley (c £7.00) and proceeded to attach it to the two 6mm screws on the outside of the casing and duly wound them in. The case did not move. ???? So I wound them in a bit more thinking the gasket was stuck. There was a horrible cracking sound and I knew I had a problem.
Before I started working on the bike I had promised myself that I would clean and de-grease everything so that I would be doing it properly. Because the bike was on the hydraulic lift and I did not want all the grit and sh** to drop onto the lift, I did not do the necessary cleaning.
There is a 6mm socket head cap screw between the two forward facing screws attaching the clutch slave cylinder. The void where it sits was completely blocked with old chain grease. The casing had split around the bolt I had not undone because I didn't realise it was there. Bollox!!!
Lesson always clean before dismantling!!!
The alternator casing on my M900 is a bit difficult to replace. It has the oil drain tubes from the barrel separate, later models from (I think) 95 onwards have the oil draining through the barrels and therefore no need for the external drain pipes.
A replacement casing would have been like rocking horse manure. Fleabay was searched but nothing forthcoming after about 2 months. I therefore had no alternative but to look for a welding repair. I thought first of trying the lower temperature aluminium "welding" available on Fleabay but friends advised that there was no substitute for doing a "proper job".
Local alloy welding "specialists" were not keen, eventually I tried T3 who took the job on. T3 used to prepare all the bikes for the Triumph Challenge, now extinct. The bikes in their workshop were exquisite. I began to wonder if I would not be better to convert a 675 Triumph.
After 2 weeks they said that the cases were done. They had to weld it twice because there was so much oil ingrained into the alternator casting (c£80.00).
*

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350TSS · 02-01-2017, 05:25 PM

Blind alley
I thought about the positioning of the battery/coils/electrics generally. On a 94 Monster, as standard, they sit on/or above the battery above the rear cylinder, so quite high in the scheme of things. The wiring is all over the place. Ignition is at the headstock, fuse box is under the seat, coils and relays under the tank. You obviously need the rear light wiring to be near the rear light but everything else could be centralised, thereby reducing weight and complexity.
You read all this stuff about mass centralisation and its importance to making the bike "flickable". My objective was always mass minimisation, but if I could centralise the mass, as well as reduce its overall impact then that would have to be a good thing - surely.
I always intended to fit a LiOn battery to reduce the overall mass by about 3Kg. The dimensions of most of the LiOn batteries are considerably smaller so it could be moved to a lower position, nearer the centre of mass.
Others have been happy to put the battery in the seat hump, but I have always felt that this location compromised the balance of the bike being high and a long way beyond the wheelbase and also suffered because the battery leads would be excessively long and unnecessarily exposed. In my view the battery had to be as close to the starter motor as possible and preferably as low as possible.
With this in mind I thought about putting every single bit of the wiring behind the steering head bearing. The battery could sit behind the cross frame brace and the coils could could sit above an alloy plate that sat below the lower frame rails.
Immediately behind the steering head would obviously be subject to severe water ingress from the front and from the periphery of the front mudguard. My original design was to make an aluminium plate to attach to the lower frame rails.
Some months ago the council left a road sign propped against my front fence. The angle iron frame for the sign was missing so it was basically a 3' x 3' x 4mm aluminium shee (slightly buckled)t. Absolutely perfect for a battery box / waterproof electrical container. Removing the plastic/reflective front label proved very time consuming. I also found that bending 4mm aluminium accurately was quite difficult without ending up with big dents from the 2Kg hammer and vice used to do so. A bending device was needed so I built this from some 3"" x 2" scrap box section, some 1.5" x 3/8" scrap and some old dexion.

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 05:32 PM

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350TSS · 02-01-2017, 05:36 PM

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350TSS · 02-01-2017, 05:43 PM

The hardest part was working out the position of the pivot point and ensuring the axis of the two hinge points were parallel with the edge against which the material would be bent across the whole width of the sheet bender.
Needless to say they were not quite square after I finished welding but not more than 0.039" (1mm) out over 30" width,.
I spent a disproportionate number of hours removing the plastic reflective stuff from the dishonestly acquired road sign and even more hours shaping it to fit the lower frame rails and then to bend over the lower head stock frame cross brace. Satisfied that it fitted without huge water ingress issues I bent it up on my recently fabricated sheet bender. The shape required a specific bend profile. When I came to test fit it I realised I had bent it absolutely the wrong way round. Basically upside down. Bollox!!!!!!!!!!!!
*

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 05:49 PM

Not in the least discouraged by this I started on the single seat base. I decided I would build a carbon fibre seat. I had watched the videos posted on the Easy Composites website and thought" How difficult can that be?"

350TSS · 02-01-2017, 05:54 PM

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02-01-2017, 05:19 PM	#9
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Stupid Mistake Stripping the engine I got hold of an alternator case removal tool from Seeley (c £7.00) and proceeded to attach it to the two 6mm screws on the outside of the casing and duly wound them in. The case did not move. ???? So I wound them in a bit more thinking the gasket was stuck. There was a horrible cracking sound and I knew I had a problem. Before I started working on the bike I had promised myself that I would clean and de-grease everything so that I would be doing it properly. Because the bike was on the hydraulic lift and I did not want all the grit and sh** to drop onto the lift, I did not do the necessary cleaning. There is a 6mm socket head cap screw between the two forward facing screws attaching the clutch slave cylinder. The void where it sits was completely blocked with old chain grease. The casing had split around the bolt I had not undone because I didn't realise it was there. Bollox!!! Lesson always clean before dismantling!!! The alternator casing on my M900 is a bit difficult to replace. It has the oil drain tubes from the barrel separate, later models from (I think) 95 onwards have the oil draining through the barrels and therefore no need for the external drain pipes. A replacement casing would have been like rocking horse manure. Fleabay was searched but nothing forthcoming after about 2 months. I therefore had no alternative but to look for a welding repair. I thought first of trying the lower temperature aluminium "welding" available on Fleabay but friends advised that there was no substitute for doing a "proper job". Local alloy welding "specialists" were not keen, eventually I tried T3 who took the job on. T3 used to prepare all the bikes for the Triumph Challenge, now extinct. The bikes in their workshop were exquisite. I began to wonder if I would not be better to convert a 675 Triumph. After 2 weeks they said that the cases were done. They had to weld it twice because there was so much oil ingrained into the alternator casting (c£80.00). *image ru [img] https://s30.postimg.org/57moulcpt/IMG_0875.jpg[/img] image upload no registration capture

02-01-2017, 05:32 PM	#11
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	free image hostingtimg.org/image/ml2y3a7ur/][/url]free image hosting free image hosting image post

02-01-2017, 04:43 PM	#1
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	I also soon realised that when it came to removing the engine it would be easier for me alone in the garage to remove the frame from the engine so I needed an engine stand which I knocked up out of some old gas barrel and two bits of angle iron. More by luck than judgement I managed to make it so that it can be withdrawn between the front wheel and the front pot. how to take a screenshot on a pc

17-10-2019, 07:48 AM	#2
ledheadlamp Guest Posts: n/a	Beautiful work, keep up and keep us posted.

02-01-2017, 04:45 PM	#3
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	upload gambar

29-08-2021, 04:16 PM	#4
Chriswilly Registered User Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: gloucester Bike: M900ie Posts: 133	Sorry - I don't wish to blitz this link BUT would like to contact ZIMBO (Stonehouse) at some time to possibly view his 'Dukes' and perhaps learn something for the future - have spent hours on the site to find his e mail address without sucess. Sorry.

02-01-2017, 04:47 PM	#6
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	The strip down continued and the biggest issue for me was what to do first, I knew I wanted a two into one exhaust (to save weight) and I also wanted a parallelogram floating rear caliper hanger. I cannot weld very tidily as seen on the engine stand and thin stainless steel tube would be well beyond me so the exhaust would have to be done by competent others. The positioning of the anchor point for the reaction rod for the parallelogram rear brake could influence the exhaust position exiting on the RH side. I also wanted a single seat and tidying up of the rear end.

02-01-2017, 04:56 PM	#7
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Meanwhile, after scouring the internet, I got a new clutch slave cylinder from China c£55 and an alloy clutch basket from Italia c£80. I still needed new alloy clutch plates and an alloy clutch hub. New Suzuki GS 550 alloy friction plates were bought for about a third of the price of Ducati ones. The original steel friction plates would tear up the new alloy hub and the old steel hub was badly fretted. That was my justification for buying them anyway but the reality was that the weight saving was significant. When it is cold and not pleasant in the garage I will produce a schedule of all the weight saved. New rear set footrests came from somewhere recommended on the Desmodue website, £110, very good quality but lacking a brake light switch position. A Chinese pressure switch was acquired for £3.50. image hosting site no sign up adult image

02-01-2017, 05:06 PM	#8
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	The passenger grab rails had to go so out with the angle grinder, the first time I have ever butchered a frame and this was the point where the rebuild became irreversible. I thought long and hard before doing it- should I just do a complete original restoration? or should I build the bike that I wanted? Well it is done now! imageupload photo sharing websites

02-01-2017, 05:25 PM	#10
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Blind alley I thought about the positioning of the battery/coils/electrics generally. On a 94 Monster, as standard, they sit on/or above the battery above the rear cylinder, so quite high in the scheme of things. The wiring is all over the place. Ignition is at the headstock, fuse box is under the seat, coils and relays under the tank. You obviously need the rear light wiring to be near the rear light but everything else could be centralised, thereby reducing weight and complexity. You read all this stuff about mass centralisation and its importance to making the bike "flickable". My objective was always mass minimisation, but if I could centralise the mass, as well as reduce its overall impact then that would have to be a good thing - surely. I always intended to fit a LiOn battery to reduce the overall mass by about 3Kg. The dimensions of most of the LiOn batteries are considerably smaller so it could be moved to a lower position, nearer the centre of mass. Others have been happy to put the battery in the seat hump, but I have always felt that this location compromised the balance of the bike being high and a long way beyond the wheelbase and also suffered because the battery leads would be excessively long and unnecessarily exposed. In my view the battery had to be as close to the starter motor as possible and preferably as low as possible. With this in mind I thought about putting every single bit of the wiring behind the steering head bearing. The battery could sit behind the cross frame brace and the coils could could sit above an alloy plate that sat below the lower frame rails. Immediately behind the steering head would obviously be subject to severe water ingress from the front and from the periphery of the front mudguard. My original design was to make an aluminium plate to attach to the lower frame rails. Some months ago the council left a road sign propped against my front fence. The angle iron frame for the sign was missing so it was basically a 3' x 3' x 4mm aluminium shee (slightly buckled)t. Absolutely perfect for a battery box / waterproof electrical container. Removing the plastic/reflective front label proved very time consuming. I also found that bending 4mm aluminium accurately was quite difficult without ending up with big dents from the 2Kg hammer and vice used to do so. A bending device was needed so I built this from some 3"" x 2" scrap box section, some 1.5" x 3/8" scrap and some old dexion.

02-01-2017, 05:36 PM	#12
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Sorry got duplication of one of pictures print screen windows xp image post

02-01-2017, 05:43 PM	#13
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	The hardest part was working out the position of the pivot point and ensuring the axis of the two hinge points were parallel with the edge against which the material would be bent across the whole width of the sheet bender. Needless to say they were not quite square after I finished welding but not more than 0.039" (1mm) out over 30" width,. I spent a disproportionate number of hours removing the plastic reflective stuff from the dishonestly acquired road sign and even more hours shaping it to fit the lower frame rails and then to bend over the lower head stock frame cross brace. Satisfied that it fitted without huge water ingress issues I bent it up on my recently fabricated sheet bender. The shape required a specific bend profile. When I came to test fit it I realised I had bent it absolutely the wrong way round. Basically upside down. Bollox!!!!!!!!!!!! *

02-01-2017, 05:49 PM	#14
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Not in the least discouraged by this I started on the single seat base. I decided I would build a carbon fibre seat. I had watched the videos posted on the Easy Composites website and thought" How difficult can that be?" upload gambar imagehosting screen shot pc capture screen

02-01-2017, 05:54 PM	#15
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	how to capture screen free photo hosting adult image upload upload an image