Ignition cut out

[Ady00]

Hi all
On two different occasions the wife’s M900 as cut out with symptoms same as using the kill switch. First time the multi connector to the right of the headlamp needed pushing together but only about 1mm which I didn’t think was enough to cause a problem however bike started and ran ok for a few weeks then it happened again. Last year I needed to change the starter solenoid as the bike would sometimes turn the engine over when the ignition was off. If the new solenoid is faulty I can’t see why it would cut ignition, multimeter shows only 10v when starter button is pressed at the solenoid end connector and I’m keen to eliminate things before the actual wires are pulled apart. Any pointers would be appreciated.

Thanks.....Ady

[slob]

Can you replicate the problem with the bars on full left lock? breakages in the loom on the right hand side of the headstock are probably most likely.

[Ady00]

Haven’t tried that one however I did have a burst of live I wasn’t expecting and wasn’t sure why at the time, will give that a go, it’s looking like the wires need unwrapping, would I be right looking at the loom around the headstock area?

Cheers..... Ady

[Darren69]

Yeah its a weakness around that area. My own S4 has been fitted with the loom reversed by the Ducati trained techs who originally rebuilt the bike, which I suspect was in order to avoid a known issue. A common failure as Rob mentioned.

[Flip]

While it is very likely to be a broken wire in the loom around the head stock another possible cause worth checking out is the condition of the 'General' (Yellow) relay under the seat.

You can carefully prise it open and have a look at the contacts- if they are black and or pitted it could be your problem before you go cutting into the sleeving and looking for broken wires.

Either way it's worth getting a spare relay and popping it into the little box under the seat just in case.

[Mr Gazza]

Flip makes a good call with the general relay. It's a good to spare to have around anyway, as he says, but personally I wouldn't store it in the bike as it's subject to possible damp, heat and vibration.
I had a grumbly general relay on my first Monster. I couldn't get to the dealer for a while, when it played up, but I helped it along for a couple of weeks by putting it in my pocket when I got to work, this ensured a reliable start up for the run home.
Try putting your relay in your airing cupboard or on a radiator for a day and see if it makes any difference.. Keep your spare relay somewhere dry and warm.

I did also experience the old broken wire in the loom round the headstock syndrome on that one, on another occasion.

[Mr Gazza]

Your comment on 10V when the starter is pressed does not ring any particular alarm bells.
It's usual to get a significant voltage drop when the starter is cranking.
To get a better picture, put your meter across the battery terminal's. Expect to see 12 to 13 volts with the ignition off. Read the voltage when cranking to measure the voltage drop. When the engine fires and runs, the voltage should recover almost immediately to the former and rise to about 14.5 volts as the charging current comes through.
Excessive voltage drop is caused by a dying battery losing it's Cold Cranking Amp ability (CCA), and/or high resistance in the starter cables. Nice bright connections on the heavy leads throughout the starter circuit help to reduce the voltage drop... Don't overlook the heavy Earth lead connected to the engine (or frame on earlier models).

Do be careful with the starter terminal stud. Make sure that it doesn't turn when you undo the nut, as this will mangle the connections inside the starter!

I think it's unlikely that your problem is in this circuit although it's a good regular service item anyway.

[Darren69]

Yep, good call by Flip, beat me to it. The relay is another favourite which I just thought of. It's called the injection or ignition relay on the ie bikes and general relay on the carb bikes iirc. But if you have 2 check both.

[Flip]

Just the one on a carb'd 900.

Admittedly not looking very yellow from this angle but it's the one next to the fuse box.

[Ady00]

Originally Posted by Flip

While it is very likely to be a broken wire in the loom around the head stock another possible cause worth checking out is the condition of the 'General' (Yellow) relay under the seat.

You can carefully prise it open and have a look at the contacts- if they are black and or pitted it could be your problem before you go cutting into the sleeving and looking for broken wires.

Either way it's worth getting a spare relay and popping it into the little box under the seat just in case.

Will give that a look although all other electrics are fully working, the last that relay failed it affected everything, I’m sure I get to the bottom of it soon I just want to cause the least amount of damage as possible. Thanks.....Ady

[Ady00]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Flip makes a good call with the general relay. It's a good to spare to have around anyway, as he says, but personally I wouldn't store it in the bike as it's subject to possible damp, heat and vibration.
I had a grumbly general relay on my first Monster. I couldn't get to the dealer for a while, when it played up, but I helped it along for a couple of weeks by putting it in my pocket when I got to work, this ensured a reliable start up for the run home.
Try putting your relay in your airing cupboard or on a radiator for a day and see if it makes any difference.. Keep your spare relay somewhere dry and warm.

I did also experience the old broken wire in the loom round the headstock syndrome on that one, on another occasion.

Back shelf of the aga is where that relay is going then, going to try the handlebar wiggle first, will be doing that Saturday will post what I find, thanks.....Ady

[Ady00]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Your comment on 10V when the starter is pressed does not ring any particular alarm bells.
It's usual to get a significant voltage drop when the starter is cranking.
To get a better picture, put your meter across the battery terminal's. Expect to see 12 to 13 volts with the ignition off. Read the voltage when cranking to measure the voltage drop. When the engine fires and runs, the voltage should recover almost immediately to the former and rise to about 14.5 volts as the charging current comes through.
Excessive voltage drop is caused by a dying battery losing it's Cold Cranking Amp ability (CCA), and/or high resistance in the starter cables. Nice bright connections on the heavy leads throughout the starter circuit help to reduce the voltage drop... Don't overlook the heavy Earth lead connected to the engine (or frame on earlier models).

Do be careful with the starter terminal stud. Make sure that it doesn't turn when you undo the nut, as this will mangle the connections inside the starter!

I think it's unlikely that your problem is in this circuit although it's a good regular service item anyway.

Ok makes sense for the voltage drop but starter not cranking and this only happens when there is no ignition, I don’t see why the solenoid doesn’t work as I have a 10v feed to it or, why I don’t have ignition if the solenoid is faulty unless as people say it is a broken wire and both are powered by it but then I wouldn’t expect to see 10v on the solenoid feed, thanks.... Ady

[Ady00]

Originally Posted by Flip

Just the one on a carb'd 900.

Admittedly not looking very yellow from this angle but it's the one next to the fuse box.

Yeh got that one covered Flip, that one caused me some head scratching a few years ago .