Sprocket Wiggle

15-10-2011, 02:31 PM

First off, Hi, this is my first post.

I have had an S4R 07 from new and love it like I've loved no other bike.

I have a few questions with regard to the chain/sprocket etc. I've done a search but not found exactly what I was after. Plus, I have never changed a chain before, or actually worked on a bike before, but do have quite a bit of older-car repair skills, so up for learning.

After my first track day I noticed the chain had stretched quite a bit, and on closer inspection and whilst cleaning it, several 'o' rings fell out. So time for a new chain.

Do I have to change the sprockets too or only if the sprocket shows signs of wear. I also noticed wiggle in the rear sprocket, is this normal (about a 1.5mm freeplay)?

Finally, can anyone point me in the direction of a service manual for bolt/nut torque figures, and some detail on how to go about changing the sprockets if necessary (can it be done with a paddock stand or do I need to hold the back end up with something else.

Sorry for the essay, any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

15-10-2011, 03:02 PM

Good idea to change the sprockets too, Haynes manual for the figures, I wouldn't worry about a bit of lateral play in the sprocket carrier, paddock stand is perfect for the job.

C

Capo · 15-10-2011, 05:38 PM

In order for the cush drive in the rear sprocket to function, there has to be some lateral clearance this translates to the wiggle

Be sure to centre punch the sprocket to prevent the cush drives backing out and ruining the hub.

15-10-2011, 09:00 PM

Thanks for the replies both. But, centre punch the sprocket? Will it become obvious to me where to do that?

Thanks again.

15-10-2011, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Localhero

But, centre punch the sprocket? Will it become obvious to me where to do that?

It's not become obvious to me, goose

Just nail it all back together and keep 'er lit!

C

Capo · 16-10-2011, 10:31 AM

It is not unknown for the rubber in one or more of the cush bolts to fail, This results in the bolt backing out of the sprocket and contacting the eccentric hub which it then destroys, a new hub costs £600.

This can be prevented by center punching the rim of the cush bore.

Single sided padock stands enter the hub from the sprocket side so can not be used for this operation.

You will also need a chain riveting tool

15-10-2011, 02:31 PM	#1
Localhero Guest Posts: n/a	Sprocket Wiggle First off, Hi, this is my first post. I have had an S4R 07 from new and love it like I've loved no other bike. I have a few questions with regard to the chain/sprocket etc. I've done a search but not found exactly what I was after. Plus, I have never changed a chain before, or actually worked on a bike before, but do have quite a bit of older-car repair skills, so up for learning. After my first track day I noticed the chain had stretched quite a bit, and on closer inspection and whilst cleaning it, several 'o' rings fell out. So time for a new chain. Do I have to change the sprockets too or only if the sprocket shows signs of wear. I also noticed wiggle in the rear sprocket, is this normal (about a 1.5mm freeplay)? Finally, can anyone point me in the direction of a service manual for bolt/nut torque figures, and some detail on how to go about changing the sprockets if necessary (can it be done with a paddock stand or do I need to hold the back end up with something else. Sorry for the essay, any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

15-10-2011, 05:38 PM	#3
Capo You Are What You Is Join Date: May 2005 Location: A Foward Location Bike: S4r Posts: 1,948	In order for the cush drive in the rear sprocket to function, there has to be some lateral clearance this translates to the wiggle Be sure to centre punch the sprocket to prevent the cush drives backing out and ruining the hub. Last edited by Capo; 15-10-2011 at 05:41 PM..

16-10-2011, 10:31 AM	#6
Capo You Are What You Is Join Date: May 2005 Location: A Foward Location Bike: S4r Posts: 1,948	It is not unknown for the rubber in one or more of the cush bolts to fail, This results in the bolt backing out of the sprocket and contacting the eccentric hub which it then destroys, a new hub costs £600. This can be prevented by center punching the rim of the cush bore. Single sided padock stands enter the hub from the sprocket side so can not be used for this operation. You will also need a chain riveting tool Last edited by Capo; 16-10-2011 at 10:35 AM..

15-10-2011, 03:02 PM	#2
Mr Cake Guest Posts: n/a	Good idea to change the sprockets too, Haynes manual for the figures, I wouldn't worry about a bit of lateral play in the sprocket carrier, paddock stand is perfect for the job. C

15-10-2011, 09:00 PM	#4
Localhero Guest Posts: n/a	Thanks for the replies both. But, centre punch the sprocket? Will it become obvious to me where to do that? Thanks again.