Ducati Monster 900 rebuild

[mickj]

Fantastic job Buzzer, bike is a credit to your skills.

[walkingpictures]

That looks superb Tony,great build and thanks for this thread

Kimbo

[Doggy]

That looks pukka. Well done.

[crawsue]

Well impressed, better than when it left Borgo Panagale.... brilliant.

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by crawsue

Well impressed, better than when it left Borgo Panagale.... brilliant.

Shorten and correctly route the hydraulic lines and then yes, it will be as close to almost perfect as you could possibly want.

[buzzer]

Thanks for the kind comments guys...

Originally Posted by Darren69

Shorten and correctly route the hydraulic lines and then yes, it will be as close to almost perfect as you could possibly want.

yes, I have changed the rear brake hose, changed the clutch pipe routing, and the throttle cables... sometime it takes others t see what you don't see! thanks...

They say a build is never finished… in some ways true! I am still finding little jobs to do like making some frame bungs as none came with the bike…

on another note... what should I set my rev limiter too on my ignitech unit?

[slob]

About 8K rpm, peak power is around 7K

[Dukedesmo]

I set mine to 9,500 rpm, probably too high to be of any use but I've never got close to it either.

For the record, when on the Dyno it made max power at around 8,300 and peak torque from 5 - 7k.

[350TSS]

I think the engine is almost self limiting - it runs out of power when the intake system cannot deliver more fuel and air and the exhaust gases cannot escape fast enough - long inlet tracts and 2 valves per cylinder. The bore/strole ratio would suggest it could rev higher and with desmodromic valves there should be no issue with valve bounce, the only real worry therefore would be strength of the crankshaft, lubrication of the big ends and dissipation of the extra heat that more power would inevitably bring.
A rev limiter will not help much if you miss a gear when really going for it or accidentally change down one too many.
If it were mine I think I would set the limiter at 500rpm over peak power (just in case you encounter an opening radius corner and want to hang onto the gear rather than a) having the power cut electronically when it would be inconvenient or b) changing up whilst cranked over).

[350TSS]

I recall someone (Slob or Luddite) on here did some speed /distance graphs that showed that changing up at peak torque was beneficial in terms of making progress over hanging on until peak power before changing gear.
In my view the character of the M900 and the way it delivers its power is much better suited to changing up at 7k rather than wringing its neck

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by 350TSS

I recall someone (Slob or Luddite) on here did some speed /distance graphs that showed that changing up at peak torque was beneficial in terms of making progress over hanging on until peak power before changing gear.

You mean this...?



http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58223

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by 350TSS

In my view the character of the M900 and the way it delivers its power is much better suited to changing up at 7k rather than wringing its neck

Agreed which is why I've never hit the limiter, as you said above it is basically self limiting although if wanting to get the best from mine taking it to 8k might help? but, otherwise 6-7k is generally plenty - keeps it in the 'meat' of the torque.

[slob]

https://www.gearingcommander.com/

[buzzer]

Thanks guys, limit will be set at 8000....

I was looking at the picture of the bike the other day and thought” those silencers are too long”… and its too quiet… Well I had the original silencers which were quite marked, So I looked at shortening them and removing part of the baffle… not a bad job… by removing the bracket I was able to slide the sleeve down enough to remove the end with a cutting disc. I then cut 100mm off the inner and sleeve (both ends to preserve the stampings) , and welded it all back up again. One thing I learned many years ago when welding exhausts is to clean the carbon off the inside… or it leaches through the weld and the joint cracks! They polish up really well…you just have to remove the original finish with a DA sander with some 120 grit, followed by some 400, then polish…

[Darkness]

How did you re-form the chamfer in the sleeve?