Testastretta Tinkering

[alan s4]

Still running with the original clutch slave Darren, your hand will be getting a good work out

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by alan s4

Still running with the original clutch slave Darren, your hand will be getting a good work out

Mark fitted a Factory Racing slave but didn't get on with it, so changed it back to the original. I have it and will probably put it back on at some point. The clutch is heavy especially with the short lever but is still light compared to my Laverda one.

I have one the same on my S4 and it is much lighter but the master cylinder is just about able to pull it with the span adjustment set on max, anything less and it won't fully disengage.

[Mr Gazza]

Okay grandma, this is how you suck eggs..

You know this.. But. On the Goldline clutch master the actuating pin that pushes the piston, threads into the trunnion in the lever. The position of the pin in the trunnion has a marked effect on the lever span/bite point.

I found that the clutch bite was very far out on the lever on my SS. I discovered that the pin had undone a bit from the trunnion and pushed the lever forwards quite a bit.
I wound the pin in as far as it would go and the span reduced considerably, bringing the bite point in closer at the same time.
Further playing with the span adjuster dial got it really comfortable with no slip or drag. This is with a standard servo.
I think that if you wanted a position not fully wound in tight that a blob of locktite would be good, although actually the thread is quite tight and probably tapered? I needed pliers on the pin to turn it.

This is a regular grease point too.. Something overlooked by a Commando riding mate of mine who eats clutch cables!

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Okay grandma, this is how you suck eggs..

You know this.. But. On the Goldline clutch master the actuating pin that pushes the piston, threads into the trunnion in the lever. The position of the pin in the trunnion has a marked effect on the lever span/bite point.

I found that the clutch bite was very far out on the lever on my SS. I discovered that the pin had undone a bit from the trunnion and pushed the lever forwards quite a bit.
I wound the pin in as far as it would go and the span reduced considerably, bringing the bite point in closer at the same time.
Further playing with the span adjuster dial got it really comfortable with no slip or drag. This is with a standard servo.
I think that if you wanted a position not fully wound in tight that a blob of locktite would be good, although actually the thread is quite tight and probably tapered? I needed pliers on the pin to turn it.

This is a regular grease point too.. Something overlooked by a Commando riding mate of mine who eats clutch cables!

Yea, the goldline masters I have on my S4 are not the correct 996 ones. I have the earlier 916 ones where I think the same adjustment is with a grub screw in the leg of the lever that contacts the piston.

When I changed the levers for some aftermarket ones I was concerned that I had set the gaps with the grub screws correctly especially for the brake, so I let Neil at Cornerspeed check them over and he said they were good. He also commented that the clutch was just about able to move enough fluid to lift the clutch with the span set to max and may benefit from a newer one. I think if I wind the grub screw in further it will move the bite point but will also then not release the pressure so the clutch may slip.

The ones on the S4R are the radial type and may be better in that respect but. I think I need to understand what exactly Mark wasn't happy with about the change that caused him to put the standard slave back on.