Back on the road. What needs done?

I'd be amazed if shot blasting enlarged the bores to that extent - loose bearings are more likely to have been caused by an old bearing that had seized and then spun, which in turn can often be rectified by some Loctite stud n bearing fit

[Mr Gazza]

Don't forget to get them to mask the flat lands where the disc(s) mount too.

You won't stand a snowballs of getting the discs to run true if you try and mount them on anything other than the bare metal... This obviously goes for the front too.

[Darren69]

When having wheels powder coated I always leave the old bearings in and take them out afterwards. I guess you know that now.

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by Darren69

When having wheels powder coated I always leave the old bearings in and take them out afterwards. I guess you know that now.

The painter I used won't do them with bearings in as the grease can contaminate the painting process.

He did a good job of masking all the various surfaces on mine though, so no problems when reassembling.

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by Dukedesm/o

The painter I used won't do them with bearings in as the grease can contaminate the painting process.

He did a good job of masking all the various surfaces on mine though, so no problems when reassembling.

I think grease would only contaminate the areas due for painting during the blasting process, wouldn't it? I can see how particles of grease may end up and splatter where you want paint. They could always mask up the bearings before blasting and wipe down the areas to be painted with degreaser anyway, just to be sure.

The powder won't stick to anything greasy anyway so I can't see how it could contaminate anything else so I can't see how it would be a problem unless he is intending to reuse the unused powder for another job maybe?

[Mr Gazza]

The bearings have rubber seals. They might survive the blasting because the grit bounces off rubber (most of the time.)

I painted my wheels with the bearings in and re-used them, but painting is a different thing to powder coating. It's the aforementioned heat you see. It melts the rubber seals, turns the grease to a liquid and buggers the job right up.!

They had terrible problems with an Ajay frame that I had powder coated many years ago.
A previous owner(s) had probably been obsessive about greasing the head bearings, and had pumped a fair amount into the frame over time.
They had several goes at getting a nice finish, but the grease kept melting out. Apparently they played a gas torch on the frame and down the tubes to burn it all out.

[Big Daft Lad]

OK well I got the back wheel yesterday, it's beautiful. Unfortunately it's completely useless as the bearing now rattles around in the wheel sooo does anyone have a spare kicking around in their garage? Paint condition is unimportant as it will be powder coated. Hopefully they will get it right the third time...

However if you have a good black one that can go straight on the bike that would be great.

[Big Daft Lad]

I managed to buy a good wheel off eBay that didn't need painted. I got it for a good price too and the powder Coater's are going to pay for it, so that's that sorted.

I fitted the wheel this afternoon and pulled the bike out the shed. It's not too bad. Brakes aren't siezed, no rust and the engine turned over easily by hand. I took the plugs out and squirted a bit of oil in before turning it over. All in I've seen worse winter project base bikes. Pretty happy with it to be honest. The clutch does nothing though so I'll have to have a look at that.

[Big Daft Lad]

New paint required!

https://flic.kr/p/P2au1J

https://flic.kr/p/P2ajdC

[Mr Gazza]

... Or you could polish the engine covers along with the belt covers..

Ross has recently done a smashing job to his engine with VHT paint. http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...t=53530&page=4

By the way, you have some posh traffic in your village. Does everyone there own a TVR?

[Big Daft Lad]

Aye, I though of polishing the casings. I did the cam covers when I got the bike and they came up well.

Ha, yes that was when the TVR Wedge posse had a run out close to home. Lovely noise they make.

[Big Daft Lad]

A small update, it's taken a while.

I changed the belts and tried to fire up but it wasn't having any of it. A couple of minutes trying to get it going had fuel pouring out of the overflows and on closer inspection one of the sliders at the top of the carb was seized. I had to strip the carbs off for a rebuild.

When I had opened them up they were manky but I didn't have any carb cleaner so I tried something new - I dropped the carbs into 2ltrs of co-op coke! After 5-10 minutes sitting in there the deposits just fell off with a rub of a baby toothbrush! Very impressive stuff and only costs 65p

Carbs on yesterday and after quite a few electrical issues (nothing serious just dirty/loose connections but it took ages to get through them all) it fired up. Very excited now :-)

The charging light is on at the moment so I'll need to investigate that but I'm not bothered at the moment it runs! It's been eight years since I heard it run.

[Mr Gazza]

I would be worried about leaving any sugar deposits from the coke, but sugar is water soluble so should be easy to rinse off... Not so good mixed with petrol though!!

I don't have a charging light... Are you sure that's what it is?

Originally Posted by utopia

I speak from what I've heard rather than from personal experience but I would be looking out for a misbehaving fuel pump (assuming that you have the vacuum/diaphragm type).
I've heard that the diaphragms don't like to be left dry .. which it may well have been.
If memory serves though, a rebuild kit for the pump can be had from Allen's Performance.

If you also have a vacuum fuel tap, then the same might apply there.
Earlier models had a manual tap though.

I would start it with the carbs left pretty much untouched, and see how it goes.
Old fuel may have gummied up the works a bit, but equally you may have no problem.
I would wait for a carb problem to surface rather than looking for one first .. you may well get lucky.
Just drain any old fuel from tank and float bowls, and refill with new.

Be aware that it takes a bit of cranking on the starter motor to refill the float bowls with fuel before it will start, so don't expect instant firing.
Unless you prime the bowls yourself (I know Dookbob does this, with a syringe).

actually, I have upgraded my fuel priming method with a self designed priming system using a yamaha outboard motor hand priming pump, works a treat.

[IMG][/IMG]