Ducati Monster 900 rebuild

[slob]

or Albie ...

[Albie]

Originally Posted by slob

or Albie ...

Early model had a plate fixed left rear frame. I have seen other models under seat part of frame.

[buzzer]

Well here it is finished.. fitted a belly pan as I quite like them... roll on summer!

I quite fancy doing an S2R next if anyone knows of a suitable bike...

[Luddite]

What a transformation! And all in only four months too. Lovely job.

As a former owner of an S2R 1000, I'd be interested to see you restore one of those.

[350TSS]

Lovely looking bike - a credit to you

[buzzer]

Originally Posted by Luddite

What a transformation! And all in only four months too. Lovely job.

As a former owner of an S2R 1000, I'd be interested to see you restore one of those.

4 months... well there has not been a lot else I can do with lockdown

[buzzer]

I have been putting a few miles on the bike, and bedding it in… it really is a nice bike to ride!

one of the things I have found difficult is the gear change. the distance between the footrest and the lever is a little too short for me. I checked on line but I couldn’t see any longer alternatives, so I decided to make one. I cut the profile out of some 10mm plate with a jigsaw, and TIG welded the parts together… then I filled it to shape, it took a while but it was strangely satisfying! finally I drilled the holes, and found an Olite bush the right size for the pivot. much better now!

[Darren69]

The bike is looking great actually btw, probably just how I would want mine to look.

I think the standard footpegs are rubbish too (foot position and levers) and like most would probably go for aftermarket rearsets as I did, but then I don't think we ever expected anything less than a bespoke solution for your build?

[PPuxley]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Lovely! You can't beat a bit of shinola.

I bought a (cheap) set of cored and polished silencers shortly after buying my 900, but chappie had polished off the anodising from the start with a mop and the result is not only hard work for him but as soon as the mop penetrates the hard anodised surface it digs in the ally. They were quite rippled and I could never flatten them out.
I've recently done another set and started with an orbital sander with a flat pad to get the anodise off. This left them flat and polishing was a doddle.

Old post I know, but Im just going through Buzzers build and making notes.
I use NaOH (drain cleaner) to strip anodising, comes off in 10 mins or so, you do need to keep a careful eye on it, though. I did it for the wheels on the XR before I rebuilt them. Wet and dryed out the worst marks, red scotchbrite and WD40, then a medium vapour blast before re-anodising. Thats what I want to do with any cans I get, but there doesnt seem to be a reasonable way to get the sleeve on and off.

[PPuxley]

Originally Posted by Luddite

I've not previously researched this subject, as I've never had to split my crankcases but, having a look at my reference books, I see that the workshop manual does actually explain how to carry out, what they call, the "Practical Method", as used by Andy in his video.

I'm sure you know this already, Richard, but, for the benefit of anyone else contemplating this job, here's the relevant extract from my Evo manual.





Note that, while the workshop manual specifies a preload of 0.3mm, another engine rebuild book I have suggests that a better figure is between 0.15mm and 0.20mm.

Out of interest, Richard, what preload have you used?

Sorry, resurrecting an old post.

I have read this "practical " method and watched the video of the same.
In that method there you can only simply divide the clearance (plus .3mm preload ) by 2 and distribute evenly to each side of the crank.
In the "full" Method you have the opprtunity to shim on each side to exactly centralise the crank on the centreline of the casings.
I guess that not doing so makes negligible difference, does it?

[buzzer]

I don't think a couple of thou makes any difference in centralising the crank...

On another note I went into the garage the other day and there was a strong smell of petrol... I sniffed around both bikes and it was stronger near the monster... on close inspection it was the fuel line from the tank to the tap, which I had replaced with some tube off Ebay. It had gone soft an porous. Looking back through my purchases and saw I have bought from two different suppliers... One looks to be OK, and the other is DEFINITLY not petrol proof, even though it said it was... I have just replaced it.

this is what I hate about Ebay... two more examples, I bought 10 Sanvick hacksaw blades... they were rubbish, and clearly fake.

what has really annoyed me though is I ordered some 3M wrap for the faded "C" pillars on our Mercedes SLK... I paid well over the odds for what I thought was genuine 3M only to find it has warped and bubbled after a few months. I took a spare piece into a place that does car wrapping and he took one look and said "fake" and showed me some genuine stuff, which was substantially different. you never know with stuff off there!

[PPuxley]

Originally Posted by buzzer

I don't think a couple of thou makes any difference in centralising the crank...

Guessed you would be talking about very small differences.
Yep, you just never know with ebay

[buzzer]

the bike is going well! although i did run out of petrol the other day... looks like the reserve light does not work!

I made a couple if risers yesterday as I wanted the handlebars a bit higher...I could probably bought them for a few pounds but where is the fun in that �� made on my old milling machine which dates from the early 30's... no CNC here although i have now gone digital ��

[buzzer]

My new project has arrived! It’s a 1999 M900. It has 9,000 miles on it. It was delivered by a courier from the North who I will definitely use again, he was brilliant! https://srcoupland.com/

I bought the bike sight unseen, save for a few pictures. It’s a none runner at the moment so who knows, but I bought it on that basis. I will attempt to start it over the next few days. When it arrived it was exactly as described, and I was very happy, especially after I sprayed the whole bike with gunk a couple of times and let it soak in for a few hours. Then a good jet wash and it has come up pretty well! It spins over OK, and I have checked the compression and that is all good.

Not sure what I will do with this one yet… it’s almost too good as it is for a full restoration, so I will get it running and then make a decision from there. It also has an interesting registration number that will appeal I guess to someone with say a new Ducati V4 as that is still an L 90 degree configuration!

Once I decide what I am doing, I will probably start a new thread…

[Mr Gazza]

That doesn't look too bad at all! and pretty in Blue.
It has adjustable forks and Goldline brakes. Well definitely Goldline levers, but I can't quite make out the caliper detail. Also seems to have the twin clock nacelle. I had a '98 which only had a speedo and the earlier brakes.

Interesting spec evolution. I wonder if you have V2 heads? As you probably gathered I'm always looking to see if it's an elusive "S" model. You have rubber covered footrests, so maybe?
Floating cast iron discs would confirm it, but they do look a bit too silver?