oil heater tap thing on M600

MotoNik · 22-11-2021, 02:42 PM

Hi Folks,

Was out on the trusty old M600 yesterday, and got myself some lovely carb-icing. Happened three times - I was ready for it, as my former 600 did it when I owned one back in 1997.

My bike has the oil lines up to the carbs, with a little tap to open or close the flow of oil. Does anyone know what the positions are for open and closed?

In the meantime, I'll be buying some octane booster for any more cold outings!

stopintime · 22-11-2021, 02:58 PM

Open is the opposite of where it was when it iced up?

slob · 22-11-2021, 03:00 PM

usually: tap handle in line with the pipe = flow, at a right angle to the pipe = off

Mr Gazza · 22-11-2021, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

usually: tap handle in line with the pipe = flow, at a right angle to the pipe = off

That would be true of a tap in a straight pipe, but the heater tap is a diverter valve and is never strictly "off". The lever still points in the direction of flow though, so to open the heater circuit turn the lever to line up with the line teeing off to the carbs. The other position will flow to the cooler only.

You might find it works better if you blank off the air flow through the cooler with whatever you can conjure up. Trust me it will not over heat when air temperature is in single figures and you will also benefit from less condensate froth on the oil.

slob · 22-11-2021, 04:05 PM

600 … no cooler

Nickj · 22-11-2021, 05:32 PM

I never found the heater circuit helped that much. Silkolene Pro FST was a better answer a generous cap full when I topped up the tank seemed to do the job.
It'll improve when it gets proper cold as the air is dryer, now with the temps around 0 it's going to be at it's worst.

Mr Gazza · 22-11-2021, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

600 … no cooler

Of course!

yellowfever · 22-11-2021, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nickj

I never found the heater circuit helped that much. Silkolene Pro FST was a better answer a generous cap full when I topped up the tank seemed to do the job.
It'll improve when it gets proper cold as the air is dryer, now with the temps around 0 it's going to be at it's worst.

I had M600 with this. From memory I think Rob is right taps in line in line = carb heating on.

But what NickJ says is exactly right from my own experience - heating circuit didn't seem to help too much. Adding pro FST sorted it. Issue mostly when it is quite cold but the air is still damp (eg foggy early morning commutes were the worst for me). So put pro FST in when weather is cold but still damp. I’ve also used an additive I got from VW for air cooled VW beetle etc engines suffering carb ice issues, but it was expensive for small quantity and no better than pro FST as far as I could tell (tho’ maybe more portable/concentrated so easier to carry so you always have it in hand when filling up).

Cheers

Yellow fever.

m600jim · 23-11-2021, 07:06 AM

Just had a lot at the manual, sorry I can't work out how to add a photo here but I can confirm that the tap is open when it's in line with the pipes and closed at 90 degrees

Nickj · 23-11-2021, 05:47 PM

Same motor just wrapped up as an SS.
I used to keep a little 100ml bottle with me over winter for the carb 750. As I was running 50+ miles a day, pretty much no matter the weather, having the motor run reasonably smoothly was a bit helpful when it was snowy.
It has to be said that we don't get the winters we used to, I'm old enough to just remember the 63 winter .. woke up to find the front door 3/4 deep in snow and the roads were sold ice for weeks.
1981-82 was a bit spectacular, left my RDLC at home and commuted on the KDX (worst block was -20 with the sea freezing and the then BOAT South Downs Way covered with massive snow drifts), 87 was a picnic after that

Darren69 · 23-11-2021, 06:53 PM

I never fully sorted the carb icing issue on my 750 and 900SS, they would ice up after 20 miles or so everytiime at the same place. So I made it a fag break and then did the other 15-20 miles to work. I had the oil line kit and added pro FST, oil cooler blank off plates and baffle plates in front of the carbs. It would still do it. Good luck with that as I think all the carb bikes will always do it whatever you do. The injection bikes don;t do it and run much better all round anyway!

22-11-2021, 02:42 PM	#1
MotoNik Bronze Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sherbourne Bike: M600 Posts: 401	oil heater tap thing on M600 Hi Folks, Was out on the trusty old M600 yesterday, and got myself some lovely carb-icing. Happened three times - I was ready for it, as my former 600 did it when I owned one back in 1997. My bike has the oil lines up to the carbs, with a little tap to open or close the flow of oil. Does anyone know what the positions are for open and closed? In the meantime, I'll be buying some octane booster for any more cold outings!

22-11-2021, 05:32 PM	#6
Nickj Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Forest Of Dean Bike: S2r Posts: 3,191	I never found the heater circuit helped that much. Silkolene Pro FST was a better answer a generous cap full when I topped up the tank seemed to do the job. It'll improve when it gets proper cold as the air is dryer, now with the temps around 0 it's going to be at it's worst. __________________ "The final measure of any rider's skill is the inverse ratio of his preferred Traveling Speed to the number of bad scars on his body." Song of the sausage creature

23-11-2021, 05:47 PM	#10
Nickj Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Forest Of Dean Bike: S2r Posts: 3,191	Same motor just wrapped up as an SS. I used to keep a little 100ml bottle with me over winter for the carb 750. As I was running 50+ miles a day, pretty much no matter the weather, having the motor run reasonably smoothly was a bit helpful when it was snowy. It has to be said that we don't get the winters we used to, I'm old enough to just remember the 63 winter .. woke up to find the front door 3/4 deep in snow and the roads were sold ice for weeks. 1981-82 was a bit spectacular, left my RDLC at home and commuted on the KDX (worst block was -20 with the sea freezing and the then BOAT South Downs Way covered with massive snow drifts), 87 was a picnic after that __________________ "The final measure of any rider's skill is the inverse ratio of his preferred Traveling Speed to the number of bad scars on his body." Song of the sausage creature

23-11-2021, 06:53 PM	#11
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,023	I never fully sorted the carb icing issue on my 750 and 900SS, they would ice up after 20 miles or so everytiime at the same place. So I made it a fag break and then did the other 15-20 miles to work. I had the oil line kit and added pro FST, oil cooler blank off plates and baffle plates in front of the carbs. It would still do it. Good luck with that as I think all the carb bikes will always do it whatever you do. The injection bikes don;t do it and run much better all round anyway! __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

22-11-2021, 02:58 PM	#2
stopintime Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Oslo Bike: S2r Posts: 426	Open is the opposite of where it was when it iced up?

22-11-2021, 03:00 PM	#3
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,712	usually: tap handle in line with the pipe = flow, at a right angle to the pipe = off

22-11-2021, 04:05 PM	#5
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,712	600 … no cooler

23-11-2021, 07:06 AM	#9
m600jim Registered User Join Date: Oct 2021 Location: Bristol Bike: M600 Posts: 27	Just had a lot at the manual, sorry I can't work out how to add a photo here but I can confirm that the tap is open when it's in line with the pipes and closed at 90 degrees