UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Cans, Tyres, Brakes, etc. » Help Needed Bleeding M750 Rear Brake Caliper

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Old 28-03-2021, 10:36 AM   #16
motomartin11
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Further update:well I removed the back wheel to effect a puncture repair.Have now taken bike for a test ride following re-assemby and all seems well.No binding and travel at the pedal feels better-so hopefully a result.
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Old 28-03-2021, 12:17 PM   #17
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Good news! What did the trick?
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Old 28-03-2021, 12:38 PM   #18
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Honest answer is.......I don't know! I just fiddled about really trying to follow the advice given. I'm guessing the master is OK but as the rubber hose is the origial there must always be the question of it swelling internally. The pistons were definitely sticking and may need a stripdown in future.
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Old 10-04-2021, 07:24 PM   #19
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Post script-my mate has stripped the rear caliper today and one of the pistons was found to be sticky due to a small amount of corrosion. All fully cleaned lubed and re-assembled now and all is well.
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Old 11-04-2021, 09:56 AM   #20
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I was just going ro suggest that. You can sometimes clean the piston area under the dust seals without stripping it all down and it can usually get you out of a fix if you don't have new seals but a full strip is often the best way.
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Old 18-04-2021, 02:01 PM   #21
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Well I was out on the M750 yesterday for a blast after the belts change and it was running great. Suddenly I thought there's a load of engine braking and guess what? The rear brake has seized on again. I'm going to have to get the whole lot sorted now. I've ordered up a new brake line as it's still on the original. I can see piston seal kits on Fleabay but I can't see a master repair kit in the UK although they seem to be available in the EC. I know some of the Brembo stuff can be hard to source. Are there any UK suppliers please?
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Old 18-04-2021, 04:47 PM   #22
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That's a pain.

I think your master is a PS11A (you should find a number stamped into the body confirming the bore size in millimetres).

If that's the case Ducati Paddy may have what you need:



http://www.ducatipaddy.com/page21.html
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Old 18-04-2021, 04:58 PM   #23
motomartin11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luddite View Post
That's a pain.

I think your master is a PS11A (you should find a number stamped into the body confirming the bore size in millimetres).

If that's the case Ducati Paddy may have what you need:



http://www.ducatipaddy.com/page21.html
Thanks.

Mine seems to be stamped : 10.3741.20 if that makes any sense?
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Old 18-04-2021, 05:19 PM   #24
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That sounds like a Brembo part number.

There are, I think, two repair kits available for the 11mm rear m/c - one for the PS11A and one for the PS11B and C. The internals are different so you need to get the right kit. I'd give Ducati Paddy a call, describe what you have and he will make sure you get the correct parts.
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Old 18-04-2021, 05:36 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomartin11 View Post
Well I was out on the M750 yesterday for a blast after the belts change and it was running great. Suddenly I thought there's a load of engine braking and guess what? The rear brake has seized on again. I'm going to have to get the whole lot sorted now. I've ordered up a new brake line as it's still on the original. I can see piston seal kits on Fleabay but I can't see a master repair kit in the UK although they seem to be available in the EC. I know some of the Brembo stuff can be hard to source. Are there any UK suppliers please?
My apologies if this doesn't apply, but my 750 (with calliper mounted atop the disc) ground to a halt with the rear disc locked on, turned out that if you dial out the factory approved yard of slack at the rear brake pedal the fluid won't return thru the master cylinder, the pads drag and then the disc overheats and stops the wheel. Worth a check, perhaps.
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Old 18-04-2021, 05:43 PM   #26
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This is a classic symptom of too little lever free play.
You need to check the free play before you splash out on a new master needlessly. (That's not to say the master isn't at fault, but why would it gradually operate the brake with no input?).

Without looking at the manual I think the free play needs to be 2mm at the stop, which I believe is also the stop lamp switch.
That feels like a lot of free play at the toe peg end, but it's needed and it's a minimum. I like to have more than the manual recommendation as I had your problem on my very first ride on my Monster, because I had taken out too much free play.

This has been reported several times on Monsters and can be very dangerous if it catches you out.

Your master is probably fine if you find the lever too tight, back it off and you should be fine.
However if the rear wheel is difficult to spin when everything has cooled down it could well be the master after all.

Yes. What dacs says above.. We posted at the same time.
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Old 18-04-2021, 06:39 PM   #27
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Oh right thanks both-that's interesting. Have to say I don't like a load of slop in my rear brake pedal and efforts have been made to reduce this so as you both say-well worth checking-thanks again.
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Old 18-04-2021, 07:06 PM   #28
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I've just re-checked and there wasn't too much free play. I've backed the adjustment right off now.Thinking about what Mr Gazza and dacs have said I noticed yesterday before my ride when the bike was sat on its paddock stand the rear wheel was quite hard to turn so this could well be the cause. I'll need to do a test ride which probably won't now happen until Wednesday but thanks again.
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Old 18-04-2021, 07:07 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomartin11 View Post
I don't like a load of slop in my rear brake pedal and efforts have been made to reduce this
Same here, and that's our undoing unfortunately!
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Old 18-04-2021, 07:49 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Mr Gazza View Post
Same here, and that's our undoing unfortunately!
Yes I hope you're right anyway as it will save me more grief.I'll fit the new brake line either way as it's stamped 1995 -the master seems to have "95" stamped in as well.
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