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Old 18-04-2021, 09:49 AM   #61
jerry
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AH HA your changing the colour to a nice red ,, that will make the bike come alive great stuff very interesting restoration
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Old 18-04-2021, 10:13 AM   #62
Darren69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry View Post
AH HA your changing the colour to a nice red ,, that will make the bike come alive great stuff very interesting restoration
Only really one colour for a Morini 3 1/2
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Old 20-04-2021, 07:22 PM   #63
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Had one of those days in the garage today when you are busy all day but do not achieve very much, first I took the clutch cover off as I need to get the inner case off to get to the kick starter spring.
The clutch is dry and has no visible means of cooling it, the fins toward the front of the engine on this casing are blind and for styling /strength purposes only. The inner case containing the kick starter spring must be wet which means there must be an oil seal inboard of the electronic ignition trigger. which means that all the electronic ignition will have to come out, the fixed magnets and the stator on the shaft. If I believe the MRC club magazine, Moto Morini was the first product6ion motorcycle to have electronic ignition
In the absence of a manual (on order) I am reluctant to disturb the ignition and the timing (it is almost inevitable that the engine will get turned over whilst fitting and testing the new kick starter spring (not yet obtained)). In any event, the clutch spring retaining nuts were rusted solid and would not budge. I could have ground up a piece of steel plate to make a tool to remove them but decided that it was easier to buy a Triumph/BSA/ Matchless/Ariel tool of Ebay for <£9.


I did manage to get the oil filter out and cleaned up, it is a cylindrical plastic mesh screen much the same as a Monster but the Morini filtration system is just that without the replaceable filter cartridge.

I then spent half an hour looking for a rear brake torque arm retaining bolt - 7mm which is probably nestling in plain sight in the box of removed 6mm bolts. In the end, I turned down an 8mm SS socket cap screw to 7mm for the shank part and again to 6mm which was threaded for a retaining nut.

I then thought I would go for the final assembly of the front end, with a 2LS front brake I always liked to ensure the brake was applied and both sets of shoes were firmly in contact with the drum before tightening the wheel spindle and doing the lower fork clamps up. A small problem was encountered with the forks at either end of the link rod between the two cast aluminium brake actuator arms, I could move the cable operated arm about 6mm before the link operated arm even moved. The holes in the aluminium arms are a snug fit on the clevis pin but the forks at either end are where all the play is. Strange that these have worn before the aluminium. Options here are 1. look around for some replacements, 2 weld the holes and re-drill them, 3 make new altogether or 4 leave them as is and see if I can adjust them so the play is "out of play"
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Old 20-04-2021, 09:20 PM   #64
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Ally rims, I see.
Were they standard ?

And yes, it does seem strange that the steel clevis have worn before the ally levers.
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Old 21-04-2021, 06:45 AM   #65
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Ally rims were not standard - when I first got the bike in 1990 ish the original Italian chrome ones were toast so I had Akront rims built onto the original hubs.
The speedo says the bike has only done <14k miles which I have no reason to doubt as the previous owner was a London based female who hardly used it and left it parked in her front garden for about 7 years so it probably only had about 5 years use prior to her ownership.
The wear on the steel brake lever clevis forks is therefore odd.
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Old 23-04-2021, 06:13 PM   #66
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I spent 5 hours in the garage today, the intent was to get the left hand side engine cover off so I could work out whether or not I needed a new kick starter spring.
The tool I purchased from Ebay got two of the clutch spring retaining nuts off before it succumbed, the material was just not up to the job and the tangs bent irrevocably.
Next, I spent an hour or so grinding up a sacrificial socket to match the slots in the head of the retaining nut. The first one broke as I obviously did not want to grind up a good quality socket as the material was too brittle. The second, ground-up from a good brand socket faired little better. By this time the slots in the nut were becoming a bit frayed so I decided to weld on some nuts and see if this would work.
key test
Alas, when a spanner was applied to the welded-on nuts they simply sheered off the clutch retaining nuts.
I retired at this point without any real clue how I will manage to remove these 3 obstinate bastards.
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Old 24-04-2021, 12:20 AM   #67
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For absolutely certain someone on here will come along with the answer.Sorry it's not me but the guys on this forum are brilliant.

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Old 24-04-2021, 09:33 AM   #68
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lots of heat ???
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Old 26-04-2021, 08:20 PM   #69
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The clutch saga continues, first I tried lots of heat but alas no counter-clockwise movement so no further forward.
Next, I tried welding the modified socket to the retaining"nut". It moved and initially appeared to be undoing but alas it seems the 7mm steel retaining stud is supposed to be held somehow in the aluminium clutch hub. It is no longer fixed to the hub so I still have a spring retaining nut that revolves counterclockwise but will not actually take any tension off the spring.
Grinding off the socket off the first stud and then welding it to each of the other two studs only resulted in the welds tearing off and no forward progress.
Tomorrow I shall carefully centre punch the ends of the 3 x 7mm recalcitrant studs and try to drill the studs out from within the retaining nuts.
If I am successful with this I should be able to get the pressure plate off and undo the clutch hub retaining nut and find out how the studs are retained in the back of the hub. I might be able to convert them to 8mm studs and using an 8mm set screw tap the hole in the clutch hub so that they are positively retained rather than, as I suspect, retained by a (chewed up) hexagon-shaped indent in the back of the casting.
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Old 27-04-2021, 07:31 PM   #70
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Semi-successful day today, I centre popped the 7mm clutch spring retaining studs and drilled them out. The one that was rotating was a bit of a swine as I had about 2mm of proud nut to grab hold of with the mole grips, not surprisingly I veered a bit with the drill.

The hub is actually made of steel (although the basket is aluminium) and it appears the posts are swaged in.

I centre popped these and drilled all 5 out. I used a 3mm drill first as I had no idea what size the post had been made at the hub end, I should have guessed that Mr Morini would use a 7mm odd size.
Because 3 of the studs were still in situ I had to use a hand drill and unsurprisingly on two of them, I missed being central on the original holes. Here is the carnage wrought after a couple of hours.

I now had access to the clutch basket which appeared to be retained by an aluminium plate located by 4 socket cap screws. With no clutch plates, no chain attached and nothing to hold onto I could not undo the cap screws as the basket simply rotated on the gearbox shaft as it should do with the clutch disengaged. So I had to knock up a locking device to remove the cap screws.
Not very substantial but it did the job.

Unfortunately with the retaining plate removed the basket would not come off the shaft, it would move about 5mm towards the off position but seemed to be retained by something. Looking carefully I could see no circlips or any other retaining device. After about half an hour of pulling/ judiciously levering, I gave it best.
The last hour was spent cutting up some longish shank 10mm bolts, I will use the shank as the new posts, machine a 7mm stub at one end weld those into the 5 holes in the hub. The other end will be drilled and tapped 5mm to take 5 mm bolts to retain the clutch springs. I much prefer bolts to those horrible shouldered nuts that require a special tool and I chose 5mm because it is good enough for Ducati and to use 6mm would only leave 2mm wall thickness on the posts.
I shall see if the manual I have (more of an owner's manual than a workshop manual) has any hints on how to remove the clutch basket.

Last edited by 350TSS; 27-04-2021 at 07:33 PM..
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Old 27-04-2021, 08:01 PM   #71
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Is this manual any use?



https://www.motorcyclemanuals.info/m...s/moto-morini/

The clutch section includes this:





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Old 27-04-2021, 08:37 PM   #72
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Once again Luddite you are a star. Effing brilliant!!!! Thanks
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Old 28-04-2021, 04:31 PM   #73
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I've only just noticed this thread again, if you need a manual I have a pdf of one, also the Harglo manual and a few other files -the handbook and a few that I haven't looked at in years covering the dellortos and a few articles etc, let me know if they would be of any use.

I was part way through sorting my strada out when I discovered that an old kids spacehopper had been pushed down one side of it and the rubber lifted off all my new paintjob, I'm afraid I just lost the enthusiasm after that, maybe one day I'll pull it out in the daylight again.
I also need to pull off my clutch to replace the oil seal behind it but have left that alone until other bits were sorted.




My old sunbeam was way easier to fix I have to say.
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Old 28-04-2021, 09:34 PM   #74
jerry
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Time to Use C4 cutting charge methinks ,,, what a palaver ,, thought i was having nigntmre with a carb your problems are much harder
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Old 29-04-2021, 12:49 AM   #75
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DaveG - thanks for the offer I will send you a PM in the next couple of days.
Jerry - problems with no knowledge of the root cause are always much worse than one's you can see and work your way out of. Wiring on Slow Monster or carbs on your 750 I'd rather have this clutch issue.
Regardless all support (moral or material) is welcome.
Today was overall good but with a few lingering concerns.
Studying Luddite's post I worked out I do not need to separate the clutch basket but rather remove the LH side casing (with the clutch basket still attached) in order to get to the kick starter return spring.
The casing castings are really a work of art. They are of a material that takes a polish really well and are elegantly made, definitely no thicker than they absolutely have to be. The problem with this is that there is nowhere to apply any force to break the gasket seal, no leverage points, and no overhanging lips at the joint to tap with a soft-faced hammer to get the gasket to part.
I must have spent half an hour tapping all around the joint face with a dead blow hammer and the casing moved not a micron. I tried snipe nosed mole grips in the recesses for the retaining screws with the same result.
I realised I needed a puller but the only possible points to attach it to were 4 bosses cast into the clutch casing to mount the outer cover. There were 3 problems with this:
1. the threads in the bosses were only M5; and,
2. the outer cover casting is double curvature so the boss heads were in 4 different fore and aft plains relative to the only solid bit I could use to press against i.e. the gearbox input shaft; and,
3. the 2 front and 2 rear bosses were c200mm apart.
I never throw anything away and eventually, I found 2 bits of 30mm x 4mm steel strip and made this up:

I originally intended to make this in one piece but did not have any suitable material. Being forced into making it in bits actually was a Godsend and made it possible. I cut and drilled the two vertical bits and screwed them to the casing, then made the cross piece roughly drilling it 10mm and welding an M10 nut to the clutch side. The Allen screw was then aligned with the gearbox shaft and the cross piece tacked in place. The welding is not my finest effort but I blame the fact that the wire spool had been exposed to moisture and the wire was all corroded and consequently the arc was very intermittent.
I wound in the m10 Allen bolt very carefully hoping that the 5 mm screws would not pull out of the bosses and when I could not bear to put any more pressure on the Allen key there was a dull crack, much like a fine irreplaceable casting breaking, fortunately, it was only the gasket cement giving way.
The inner LH case is off and to prove it here is a picture:
snagit
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