Parts for M900sie

[deanyoungblood]

Hi guys

Trying to sympathetically update/upgrade/repair parts on my 2000 900sie that bother me or need putting back to how they should be.

• Rounded left rear indicator - in as good condition as possible
• Lower section that holds number plate (someone cut this one)
• Or a full carbon fibre rear tail section
• An aftermarket exhaust that is sympathetic to the standard size/shape
• Replacement standard levers (current are beyond corroded)
• Fuel filler surround as the paint has flaked off
• The 2 clips that hold the ohlins resevoir in place

Thanks for any help, tips or offers

[Mr Gazza]

With most of those parts I would suggest asking at Moto Rapido for prices and availability. You might get a pleasant surprise at the prices of brand new parts, especially the moulded plastic parts, although the indicator might be a bit salty?
If they can't provide a number plate holder at a sensible price I do still have the original from mine, which we can talk about. I found a carbon one on here some time ago second hand, but they are available new at a price. Others will be able to direct you to a source of quality parts.
Good luck with an after market exhaust, I've been looking for a good few years and nothing really compares to the original in my opinion. I have had a couple of tries with cored silencers from M750s, those are about 1 1/2" shorter than the original Y2000 silencers and look like a much better fit aesthetically. I now have a nice standard matching pair of 750 silencers. I like to sand off the anodising, removing any little scuffs and scratches in the process, they polish up a treat then and glint in the sunlight.
I have found that the simplest and most durable way to core them for a little more rumble, is to drill 3.5mm holes in the end plate between the inner and outer tail pipes, about 4 holes in each will do, but add to taste. These can be easily stopped up with pan head self tappers if there is ever a problem with the authorities and will not look out of place if neatly radially drilled in the first place.

You should find a donor on here with a nice pair of Goldline levers as they tend to fit those stupid short things and think they have customised their bike..! I like the originals.
They originally came with some kind of coating which yellows over time. It comes off easily to make way for the Autosol.

The filler cap rings always lose their paint because of the multitude of sharp edges in and on the grooves. I always mean to polish mine flat, but don't seem to get round to it. A quick squirt with some silver paint should fix that though. they come out easily, but I think I would mask the cap up rather than try and detach it, for fear of losing the horrid little springs and trying to re-locate them.

Ohlins res clips are just jubilee clips. I have replaced mine in the last few weeks with standard items from the DIY shop, but shop around for some stainless ones for a permanent job.

Something else you might like to look at is the short mudguard extension below the swing arm. This is unique to the M900Sie and I think of it as a prized piece. If it is absent Moto Rapido can supply these too.

[Darren69]

If yours is one of the later 4 bolt type then this may be some use? Not mine btw

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294973611...H&LH_Auction=1

[Mr Gazza]

2000 M900Sie is 3 bolt, but always worth looking underneath to check as both types seem to have been used at some point.

Some pictures of the parts mentioned.









Also meant to mention that I might be worth getting in touch with Nasher on here. He is gradually disposing of the estate of one of our dear late club mates. There are a large amount of silencers, so maybe there could be something of interest to you among them?

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by deanyoungblood

[*]The 2 clips that hold the ohlins resevoir in place

I used rubber lined 'P' clips to hold mine in place, I prefer the rubber lining as it cushions the grip on the reservoir.

[Darren69]

These are fronts but maybe have enough spare parts to make a good rear?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325189204...m2042&LH_All=1

New ones are about £30 each for pattern ones.

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by Darren69

These are fronts but maybe have enough spare parts to make a good rear?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325189204...m2042&LH_All=1

New ones are about £30 each for pattern ones.

Actually on closer inspection they look like right front and rear, but it is the rear that's damaged.

[deanyoungblood]

Thanks for all the replies so far.

My tail is a 3 bolt affair. It’s the lower part that’s been cut. Happy to replace it or change the whole tail section for a carbon one. The only reason is that the bike has carbon everything else and the tail piece looks a little like an after-thought.

I’ll take a look for some clips for the canister, rubber mounted sounds like a good idea.

I don’t mind buying new at all, especially for the carbon section as it might guarantee its condition.

First stop is definitely a little more noise; such a unique sounding bike, shame to strangle the sound so much. I’m just not a big fan of things looking too “aftermarket” so subtle is key

Pic of the bike for context:

[slob]

I think I have some Remus cans somewhere, round rather than oval IIRC.
I’m on the Isle of Man athe mo but can look next week, when I get home, if you like.

[deanyoungblood]

Originally Posted by slob

I think I have some Remus cans somewhere, round rather than oval IIRC.
I’m on the Isle of Man athe mo but can look next week, when I get home, if you like.

Thanks, that’d be great

[deanyoungblood]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

With most of those parts I would suggest asking at Moto Rapido for prices and availability. You might get a pleasant surprise at the prices of brand new parts, especially the moulded plastic parts, although the indicator might be a bit salty?
If they can't provide a number plate holder at a sensible price I do still have the original from mine, which we can talk about. I found a carbon one on here some time ago second hand, but they are available new at a price. Others will be able to direct you to a source of quality parts.
Good luck with an after market exhaust, I've been looking for a good few years and nothing really compares to the original in my opinion. I have had a couple of tries with cored silencers from M750s, those are about 1 1/2" shorter than the original Y2000 silencers and look like a much better fit aesthetically. I now have a nice standard matching pair of 750 silencers. I like to sand off the anodising, removing any little scuffs and scratches in the process, they polish up a treat then and glint in the sunlight.
I have found that the simplest and most durable way to core them for a little more rumble, is to drill 3.5mm holes in the end plate between the inner and outer tail pipes, about 4 holes in each will do, but add to taste. These can be easily stopped up with pan head self tappers if there is ever a problem with the authorities and will not look out of place if neatly radially drilled in the first place.

You should find a donor on here with a nice pair of Goldline levers as they tend to fit those stupid short things and think they have customised their bike..! I like the originals.
They originally came with some kind of coating which yellows over time. It comes off easily to make way for the Autosol.

The filler cap rings always lose their paint because of the multitude of sharp edges in and on the grooves. I always mean to polish mine flat, but don't seem to get round to it. A quick squirt with some silver paint should fix that though. they come out easily, but I think I would mask the cap up rather than try and detach it, for fear of losing the horrid little springs and trying to re-locate them.

Ohlins res clips are just jubilee clips. I have replaced mine in the last few weeks with standard items from the DIY shop, but shop around for some stainless ones for a permanent job.

Something else you might like to look at is the short mudguard extension below the swing arm. This is unique to the M900Sie and I think of it as a prized piece. If it is absent Moto Rapido can supply these too.

Do you know where sells the carbon tails with the 3 bolt affair?

Weirdly, any reason why the ohlins logo is upside down? Is that as it is supposed to be an upside down set up, given the resevoir is at the bottom, not top?

I don’t have the mudguard extension below the swingarm that I can see.

[Mr Gazza]

Moco recently posted up that he had acquired a tailpiece from RSR-Moto and it looks very nice. http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=59830
I guess the only way to find out if they do that in 3 bolt form along with the number plate piece is to ask.

No idea why the Ohlins logo is upside down, maybe it's inverted snobbery?..

Shame you don't have the under mudguard but it's easily fixed so long as the rivnuts in the swinging arm are in good condition.

You bike looks in good nick and nice in Yellow, I've been tempted to spray my spare tank Yellow for a change now and then.
The Sie was also supplied with a headlamp fairing along with the seat hump cover. I don't use either of mine as I like the naked look and find the fairing puts the wind in my face.
2000 M900Sie also came with aluminium handlebars, rubber covered footrests and floating rear caliper. The forks are fully adjustable Showas.

One of the very best Monster models going, in my opinion. The high spec on the "Millennium special" 2000 M900Sie was never repeated.
Enjoy and welcome to the club

[deanyoungblood]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Moco recently posted up that he had acquired a tailpiece from RSR-Moto and it looks very nice. http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=59830
I guess the only way to find out if they do that in 3 bolt form along with the number plate piece is to ask.

No idea why the Ohlins logo is upside down, maybe it's inverted snobbery?..

Shame you don't have the under mudguard but it's easily fixed so long as the rivnuts in the swinging arm are in good condition.

You bike looks in good nick and nice in Yellow, I've been tempted to spray my spare tank Yellow for a change now and then.
The Sie was also supplied with a headlamp fairing along with the seat hump cover. I don't use either of mine as I like the naked look and find the fairing puts the wind in my face.
2000 M900Sie also came with aluminium handlebars, rubber covered footrests and floating rear caliper. The forks are fully adjustable Showas.

One of the very best Monster models going, in my opinion. The high spec on the "Millennium special" 2000 M900Sie was never repeated.
Enjoy and welcome to the club

Thanks for the info, all very helpful and informative. I appreciate it.

On the subject of suspension, do you know what the stock setup is so I can check if it’s been tweaked?

[Mr Gazza]

Damping settings according to the book are;
Rear shock,
Compression 12 clicks.
Rebound 14 clicks.
Forks,
Compression 5 clicks.
Rebound 7 clicks.

Count clicks anti-clockwise, from fully wound in clockwise on all adjusters.
Rear shock rebound is the plastic ring at the bottom of the shock and compression is the knob on the reservoir.
On the forks rebound adjusters are the slotted screws in the top and compression are slotted screws accessed though holes in the wheel spindle in the fork bottoms. (You have to have the spindle lined up correctly, with the little notches in line with the fork leg centreline.)
Rear spring I think is set at 168mm and fork preload is 18mm measured from the top of the fork nut to the top of the adjuster nut.
There should be 20mm of fork showing above the top yoke.
The above preload figures are rather academic as they should be set to the machine weight and compared to rider weight.
Try and set the static sag to 10mm +-2mm at the rear and 28mm +-2mm on the forks.
Fork oil should be 7.5w but MCT have just put 15w in mine and the damper settings are now different to the stock figures, which after all are only a starting point.

I've recently had my suspension overhauled at MCT near Stowmarket There's a report here.. http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=59853

Don't forget to count the clicks as you screw the adjusters in clockwise in the first instance and record the settings that you find so you can return to those if it all goes pear shaped.

Also the shock rebound adjuster is a bit confusing as you look at it from the top, so you wind it IN anti-clockwise as you look at it. this is in fact winding it in clockwise if you were to look at the shock from beneath... Sorry that's probably made it worse?.