M900 -- Rear wheel carrier screw

[CarloL]

Part 77910242A
M8 X 90

Did anybody come across a titanium replacement , drilled hex head ?
The stem on the OE is fully Threaded , any aftermarket fasteners I have seen are partial threaded

[350TSS]

Partial threaded would be better as the bolt goes through the spherical bearing in the suspension hoop, threaded would be carrying any load on the tips of the threads, the length of the unthreaded portion is obviously critical.

[Mr Gazza]

Originally Posted by 350TSS

the bolt goes through the spherical bearing in the suspension hoop,

8 x 90 ?? Do make your hoop lower bolts double up as pillion footrests?

I assume that the bolts you are talking about are for the wheel adjuster blocks in the end of the swinging arm? (Part 18)

I made mine up with S/S treaded rod and seized some cap nuts on one end. I also drilled the other (inner) end for a small split pin.
The originals have a very small screw and washer threaded in the end (Parts 14-15), to stop the whole lot falling out and going down the road should they work loose, but in fact you have chewed the swinging arm end cap to buggery if that happens and probably locked the back wheel and fallen off if that happens on the sprocket side.

So long as the TI replacement is threaded sufficiently to get the full wheel adjustment rearward then it will work. 8 x 100 or longer will work just as well if they have more thread nearer the head, there's plenty of room forwards for spare bolt length.
Remember to grease the bolt with coppaslip or better still, moly grease before fitting.

Note; do not try and remove the bolt whilst the axle block is in the arm, as you need to remove the little screw from the inside end first.

[utopia]

I also changed mine for stainless studding but while I was at it I fixed them at the inboard end and used nylock flange nuts (titanium as it happens) on the outboard end for the adjustment.
The nylock nuts hold their position better when you've loosened them off to remove the wheel or other maintenance jobs, which helps keep the wheel alignment spot on.
It was a good few years ago that I did it and I can't remember how I locked the studs in place ..... maybe just a thin locknut, possibly with assistance from high strength loctite.

[Mr Gazza]

This would be the sort of thing you're looking for, but sadly nowhere near enough thread length! Little chance of making it longer as I believe the threads are rolled onto Ti bolts.

https://raceboltuk.com/titanium-c4/r...-x-90mm-p26806

I think threaded rod is the way forward, but maybe see if you could find someone who could weld some onto a short Ti bolt with a drilled hex head?
A lot of trouble for a couple of bolts you use once every year?

[350TSS]

I should have spotted the length, they can only be the wheel adjuster screws/bolts.
I would not recommend trying to run a die down a similar length Ti bolt, you will extend the thread by about 5 threads before the Ti work hardens and the die locks in position, either that or the die will blunt and be useless anyway or you will muller the head (presumably held in a vice) as you try to force the die down further.

[slob]

I think I may have some stainless ones in the garage if that’s any good to you?
IIRC they were only available in 20x whan I needed a pair.