Another one from Norfolk

Hi, i wanted to create a new thread as i kinda hijacked someone else’s, (sorry about that)!
so i have had a Yamaha FZ6 for the last 4 years which has been great but was staring to find it a little boring. its been bullet proof, barely cost me anything in services and has done everything ive ever asked of it. The time came for a change and had lots of ideas about the next bike. I toyed with the idea of a 1250 bandit, and a speed triple but was put off by the weight of the bandit and the price of the triumph. My wife is a big fan of the monster and said I should do test ride one, well I was hooked from then! The only thing was the concern about reliability, and the service cost.

Anyway the hunt was on and I found what I thought was a good deal from a fellow forum member. Last weekend I went down to take a look at the bike and it was good and decided to buy it. A 59 plate 696 with 6000 miles on the clock, belly pan, R&G bungs, and a set of carbon Termi pipes!

Rode the bike home (200 or so miles) and it was great, still got to get to grips with the twin and it being very different to my old FZ6 but really enjoyed the ride. I was a little apprehensive about the little bike doing 200 motorway miles but it cruised and ‘motorway speeds’ just fine.

Only thing I think it needs is a good clean and a service – yep belts need doing

I was going to ask – how does everyone else keep the engine clean? Ive noticed there is already some corrosion on the cases and the fins which I would like to stop or limit getting any worse. Any tips or advice? Also I was wondering where people get their bikes serviced?

[Grumpy]

For servicing I would use Karl Harrison over in Charleston. He is an independent servicing centre with an excellent reputation.

[Mr Gazza]

Poor Grumpy, he doesn't know the proper lyrics to Hotel California either..

It's Carl Harrison at Harleston 01379 852020

For parts, Moto Rapido in Winchester is always my first choice 01962 877998. (then dial 1 for parts.)
They usually have the parts to you the next day, unless it has to come from Italy or elsewhere, in which case it is usually within the week... Excellent establishment and 10% discount as well if you mention that you are in UKMOC.

You could try Seastar at Newton Flotman if you like, but I've never bothered with them. I heard that they send the tricky jobs to Carl Harrison anyway!!

Get those belts changed asap, unless you know for absolute certain that they were changed within the last two years... Do it yourself, it's a piece of cake.

I personally wouldn't have ridden it home without a guarantee that they were fresh.
I looked very seriously at a 750SS earlier in the year, my plan was to buy a couple of belts for it and change them there before the ride home ( about 150 miles). I dithered and missed a bargain.!

Best of luck with your new bike.. See you soon.

[Dirty]

Get the belts done for piece of mind but then change them according to usage/mileage etc. Some people are religious about the 2 year thing but if you've done less than 2k miles in that time and they have been in regularish use (non use leaves a kink in them) are looking fresh then 3, 4 years is no issue.

Diligent cleaning after every ride is probably the answer to the engine question. It's a rare duke that doesn't have a bit of corrosion there

[Mr Gazza]

I find that a little petrol in a take-away tub and an old 1/2" paintbrush works very well on the engine cases, covers and finned areas.
Put a bit of newspaper down under the engine first, and just work from the top down, mopping up the dirty petrol with a rag as you go.
A solvent de-greaser like Gunk or Jizer (if you can still get them?) is probably a bit more pc these days and you don't need to wipe it off as you go. Just rinse off with water when you have brushed and agitated it all over.

Once a year for a good engine clean down should be all you need

Don't be tempted to use a pressure washer on any part of your bike.. It's just a disaster.

For the areas starting to show signs of paint loss and white corrosion, a squirt and wipe with WD40 or some such will stop it going any further and take away the whiteness that makes it look so bad. Waxoyl is good too... Just a dab where it's needed.

[J.P]

Welcome to the forum and ownership.
Firstly, give the bike a good wash. Then get yourself some 'ACF50' or 'F365' and give the engine a good coating. The ACF50 is probably the better product of the two.

It acts as a protective and neutralizing coating to stop the corrosion.
I've used it for years

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

I find that a little petrol in a take-away tub and an old 1/2" paintbrush works very well on the engine cases, covers and finned areas.
Put a bit of newspaper down under the engine first, and just work from the top down, mopping up the dirty petrol with a rag as you go.
A solvent de-greaser like Gunk or Jizer (if you can still get them?) is probably a bit more pc these days and you don't need to wipe it off as you go. Just rinse off with water when you have brushed and agitated it all over.

Once a year for a good engine clean down should be all you need

Don't be tempted to use a pressure washer on any part of your bike.. It's just a disaster.

For the areas starting to show signs of paint loss and white corrosion, a squirt and wipe with WD40 or some such will stop it going any further and take away the whiteness that makes it look so bad. Waxoyl is good too... Just a dab where it's needed.

I think you can still get 'Gunk' from Halfords and the like, they sell it in an aerosol and I would say its probably better and safer than sloshing petrol everywhere and it won't damage paint, WD40 is also good, Iv'e yet to try ACF50 but lots on here swear by it. WD40 is similar, just make sure not to spray in on brake disks and calipers.

And to re-iterate what Gazza said regarding pressure washing, just don't do it. Use it for cleaning your patio or car but not the bike. Jap bikes and BM's seem to be ok as I used to do my winter hacks with one, but Ducati don't like it and you will soon have electrical problems once you get water in there that won't dry out.

[Jez900ie]

Originally Posted by Darren69

I think you can still get 'Gunk' from Halfords and the like, they sell it in an aerosol and I would say its probably better and safer than sloshing petrol everywhere and it won't damage paint, WD40 is also good, Iv'e yet to try ACF50 but lots on here swear by it. WD40 is similar, just make sure not to spray in on brake disks and calipers.

And to re-iterate what Gazza said regarding pressure washing, just don't do it. Use it for cleaning your patio or car but not the bike. Jap bikes and BM's seem to be ok as I used to do my winter hacks with one, but Ducati don't like it and you will soon have electrical problems once you get water in there that won't dry out.

WD40 is 50% solvent, which is good for siezed bolts etc, but not so great for protection. the solvents can damage electrical wire coatings, making them brittle. Ask anyone who has sprayed it onto outboard engines... I prefer Corrosion X. Its not cheap, but it does protect and it has zero solvents. Buy it on Amazon or ebay. They have a really funny advert clip where they show a radio controlled helicopter dropped deliberately into a bucket of water, then flown back out a few minutes later!

Halfrauds sell Gunk. Doesn't everyone use Gunk? Didn't Ogri drink it for breakfast?

thanks guys really good advice and i will do a trip to the local halfords asap to pick up a few new tins of stuff!

regarding general maintenance you will be pleased to know the bike is booked in with Carl next week for a comprehensive service including belts, clearances and all the other stuff. To limit the miles on the belts im also having it collected so should be all good and ready to ride when its back. Will then do the full clean and engine detail so its fit for the summer. If I can still afford to put fuel in it!

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

I find that a little petrol in a take-away tub and an old 1/2" paintbrush works very well on the engine cases, covers and finned areas.
Put a bit of newspaper down under the engine first, and just work from the top down, mopping up the dirty petrol with a rag as you go.
A solvent de-greaser like Gunk or Jizer (if you can still get them?) is probably a bit more pc these days and you don't need to wipe it off as you go. Just rinse off with water when you have brushed and agitated it all over.

Once a year for a good engine clean down should be all you need

Don't be tempted to use a pressure washer on any part of your bike.. It's just a disaster.

For the areas starting to show signs of paint loss and white corrosion, a squirt and wipe with WD40 or some such will stop it going any further and take away the whiteness that makes it look so bad. Waxoyl is good too... Just a dab where it's needed.

Will that do it? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Swarfega-J...wAAOSwNSxU2ooT

you say spray it on, give it a rub and then wash it off with water? would that not wash it off and mean the fins will corrode more?

[Darren69]

Originally Posted by Jez900ie

WD40 is 50% solvent, which is good for siezed bolts etc, but not so great for protection. the solvents can damage electrical wire coatings, making them brittle. Ask anyone who has sprayed it onto outboard engines... I prefer Corrosion X. Its not cheap, but it does protect and it has zero solvents. Buy it on Amazon or ebay. They have a really funny advert clip where they show a radio controlled helicopter dropped deliberately into a bucket of water, then flown back out a few minutes later!

Halfrauds sell Gunk. Doesn't everyone use Gunk? Didn't Ogri drink it for breakfast?

Yea, I'e heard its good on cornflakes too but since I don't like cornflakes it may be ok neat?
:0 WD is good for metal but not so good on rubber, i've not had any problems personally but it wilmayl soften and dissolve some rubber as it it's petroleum based.

[Mr Gazza]

Originally Posted by goodeye

Will that do it? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Swarfega-J...wAAOSwNSxU2ooT

you say spray it on, give it a rub and then wash it off with water? would that not wash it off and mean the fins will corrode more?

I couldn't really comment as I was always more of a Gunk man and I haven't even used any of that for many tens of years.
If I remember correctly, you are supposed to run the engine up after rinsing, to warm it and dry it off. I think it must leave a residue as it will have the distinctive smell of Gunk for days.?

The thing with petrol is that there is always some around and you need very little indeed to clean stuff up spotless.
I used up some old two-stroke mix to clean things once and it had the advantage of leaving a very thin oily film behind... Not particularly good for your skin or lungs though!

I tend to use clutch and brake cleaner more these days, which will lift almost anything off and is safe on rubber and most paints. Trouble is that it evaporates so quickly that it just tends to move the crud along a bit! You have to wipe it immediately or use enough for it to run off with all the muck... Also not brilliant for your skin and lungs.

[Jez900ie]

Originally Posted by goodeye

Will that do it? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Swarfega-J...wAAOSwNSxU2ooT

you say spray it on, give it a rub and then wash it off with water? would that not wash it off and mean the fins will corrode more?

The cleaner Gunk (possibly Swarfega stuff) is put on then rinsed off with water. The protection (Corrosion X) is put on afterwards. Like washing the car, then apply the polish.

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

I couldn't really comment as I was always more of a Gunk man and I haven't even used any of that for many tens of years.
If I remember correctly, you are supposed to run the engine up after rinsing, to warm it and dry it off. I think it must leave a residue as it will have the distinctive smell of Gunk for days.?

The thing with petrol is that there is always some around and you need very little indeed to clean stuff up spotless.
I used up some old two-stroke mix to clean things once and it had the advantage of leaving a very thin oily film behind... Not particularly good for your skin or lungs though!

I tend to use clutch and brake cleaner more these days, which will lift almost anything off and is safe on rubber and most paints. Trouble is that it evaporates so quickly that it just tends to move the crud along a bit! You have to wipe it immediately or use enough for it to run off with all the muck... Also not brilliant for your skin and lungs.

this more like it then - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunk-Degre...0AAOSwWxNYwHUN

Originally Posted by Jez900ie

The cleaner Gunk (possibly Swarfega stuff) is put on then rinsed off with water. The protection (Corrosion X) is put on afterwards. Like washing the car, then apply the polish.

this what you mean? - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CorrosionX-...ds=Corrosion+X