M1000 track bike - Page 9

20-06-2013, 08:23 AM

Awesome, lighter, hi comp, polished, shaved and balanced sound like getting ready for a night on the town??

Dukedesmo · 20-06-2013, 08:39 AM

Nice one, keep it coming.

Funkatronic · 20-06-2013, 12:09 PM

looks really good mate
cant wait to see that on track, you are going to be able to boot that out of corners sooo hard :-)

Stafford · 20-06-2013, 12:10 PM

What's the due date for the new baby?

20-06-2013, 01:52 PM

The new bits do look good - I would enjoy working on that myself.

Just a small point in case anyone misunderstands what you have written - you have missed the word 'pre-load' after '....... ideal 0.3mm'
The sentence starts with the words 'End float....' so it reads as if the 0.3mm is end float - I know you didn't mean it to.

Presumably you would have been able to directly measure end float of crank with min thickness shims fitted but you didn't have any? - I think I would want to do that to double check measurements.

slob · 21-06-2013, 04:59 PM

Yes you're quite right, it was getting late. The crank wants 0.3mm pre-load, the gear shafts want between 0.05 and 0.20mm end float. In other words there should be a slight resistance to turning the crank and an almost invisible amount of free play in each gear shaft. The ally cases will expand about twice as fast as the steel shafts.

slob · 30-06-2013, 10:31 PM

With suitable shims installed the cases go back together.

Factory Pro shift detent (right) looks very similar to stock but different spring and a ceramic bearing. This is meant to give a slicker gearshift, we'll see.

Gearshift pawl spings are both replaced. Under £10. I've had the return spring break on a bike of similar mileage before, so better safe than sorry while it's apart.

The selector drum/pawl alignment is checked in 3rd gear and a quick run up and down the gearbox confirms everything is lined up right.

The clutch driven gear is temporarily fitted and primary drive lash checked.

A magnet from an old pair of headphones is set in epoxy in a race drain plug from Avanti Race Parts

01-07-2013, 12:46 AM

Now it really is looking good and nice to see the con-rods protected - what a pro!

Now you've got the Avanti sump plug, which is drilled, you need somewhere to lockwire it to so if you haven't found anywhere, this is my effort.

I'm a big fan of JBWeld so converted my sump plug by fixing a piece of 10mm s/s hex. I also JBWelded a pieces of 6mm s/s hex into the blanking plug for the oilway cross-drilling and lockwired together.
(I agree it's not necessary but looks good to me!)

You didn't say what paint you used for the cases the second time?

Rally · 01-07-2013, 04:41 AM

Mole grips on a splined shaft! No, tut tut.

Looking good though Slob.

Kato · 01-07-2013, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

Factory Pro shift detent (right) looks very similar to stock but different spring and a ceramic bearing. This is meant to give a slicker gearshift, we'll see.

Been using those for years as you know Rob......they work very well indeed although pricey for what they are

slob · 01-07-2013, 10:18 PM

Aluminium flyweel weighs just 632g, steel original is over twice as heavy at 1873g.

It's almost starting to look like an engine again.

utopia · 02-07-2013, 01:33 AM

So that's a rather impressive 1.2 kg lighter ...a significant reduction even if it were only for the dead weight, never mind the rotating inertia.
That's an eye opener.

...as was the mole grips on the splines ...though they do at least look to be newish ones with relatively sharp teeth.

Would that be one of the super strong, rare earth magnets ?
And do you intend to use them around your oil filter too ? My current thinking is that that is the most effective place for them.

A really interesting thread this. Thanks, Rob. (I may have said that already).
Does anyone else remember those strip down and rebuild guides for old brit bikes in Motorcycle Mechanics ..the ones that were like a cartoon strip of badly lit photos of greasy bits of engine ...? (I bet Zhango does). This is like the modern version.

02-07-2013, 07:18 AM

Utopia, I was a regular reader of MM and as a teenager with no money I learned a lot about bikes from that mag - the articles tended to repeat though so how many times did you need to be told how to grind-in valves? Yes, the photos were not good but it was a long time ago!

I agree with you about using Neo magnets on the oil filter - I've got some N52 which I got from SPIDER MAGNETS on ebay.

slob · 02-07-2013, 08:44 AM

Utopia: The magnet I used was a flat ceramic disc from a scrap pair of cheap computer headphones.
Zhango: I didn't paint the cases in the end. After discussing with Dave, I decided to try bare metal and an occasional wipe over with ACF50 since it's going to be a fairweather/track bike. Time will tell.

slob · 06-07-2013, 09:50 PM

Earlier in the week I stripped the starter motor so I could stick in a new brush kit from the ever efficient Electrex World.

Cleaned up, primed and painted the casing, looks like new and can go back on tomorrow.

The APE studs are torqued into the cases by locking two of the old head nuts together.

Sadly they're 23g each heavier than the stock ones so we're 184g in the wrong direction here, at least that's not rotating or reciprocating mass.

Piston ring gaps are checked and are all good at around 0.35mm

Checked the clearance in the piston while I was at it, unsurprisingly no problems with brand new kit.

20-06-2013, 08:39 AM	#122
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,854	Nice one, keep it coming. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

20-06-2013, 12:10 PM	#124
Stafford P3, nice. Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calne Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 2,145	What's the due date for the new baby? __________________ celeres-racing.blogspot.co.uk/ The probability of survival is equal to the angle of arrival.

30-06-2013, 10:31 PM	#127
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,719	With suitable shims installed the cases go back together. Factory Pro shift detent (right) looks very similar to stock but different spring and a ceramic bearing. This is meant to give a slicker gearshift, we'll see. Gearshift pawl spings are both replaced. Under £10. I've had the return spring break on a bike of similar mileage before, so better safe than sorry while it's apart. The selector drum/pawl alignment is checked in 3rd gear and a quick run up and down the gearbox confirms everything is lined up right. The clutch driven gear is temporarily fitted and primary drive lash checked. A magnet from an old pair of headphones is set in epoxy in a race drain plug from Avanti Race Parts Last edited by slob; 01-07-2013 at 06:54 AM..

20-06-2013, 08:23 AM	#121
pegboy Guest Posts: n/a	Awesome, lighter, hi comp, polished, shaved and balanced sound like getting ready for a night on the town??

20-06-2013, 12:09 PM	#123
Funkatronic another year another bike Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: London Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 1,597	looks really good mate cant wait to see that on track, you are going to be able to boot that out of corners sooo hard :-)

20-06-2013, 01:52 PM	#125
zhango Guest Posts: n/a	The new bits do look good - I would enjoy working on that myself. Just a small point in case anyone misunderstands what you have written - you have missed the word 'pre-load' after '....... ideal 0.3mm' The sentence starts with the words 'End float....' so it reads as if the 0.3mm is end float - I know you didn't mean it to. Presumably you would have been able to directly measure end float of crank with min thickness shims fitted but you didn't have any? - I think I would want to do that to double check measurements.

21-06-2013, 04:59 PM	#126
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,719	Yes you're quite right, it was getting late. The crank wants 0.3mm pre-load, the gear shafts want between 0.05 and 0.20mm end float. In other words there should be a slight resistance to turning the crank and an almost invisible amount of free play in each gear shaft. The ally cases will expand about twice as fast as the steel shafts.

01-07-2013, 12:46 AM	#128
zhango Guest Posts: n/a	Now it really is looking good and nice to see the con-rods protected - what a pro! Now you've got the Avanti sump plug, which is drilled, you need somewhere to lockwire it to so if you haven't found anywhere, this is my effort. I'm a big fan of JBWeld so converted my sump plug by fixing a piece of 10mm s/s hex. I also JBWelded a pieces of 6mm s/s hex into the blanking plug for the oilway cross-drilling and lockwired together. (I agree it's not necessary but looks good to me!) You didn't say what paint you used for the cases the second time?

01-07-2013, 04:41 AM	#129
Rally Taking life easy........ Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Wiltshire Bike: Other Not a Ducati Posts: 1,969	Mole grips on a splined shaft! No, tut tut. Looking good though Slob.

01-07-2013, 10:18 PM	#131
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,719	Aluminium flyweel weighs just 632g, steel original is over twice as heavy at 1873g. It's almost starting to look like an engine again.

02-07-2013, 01:33 AM	#132
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,546	So that's a rather impressive 1.2 kg lighter ...a significant reduction even if it were only for the dead weight, never mind the rotating inertia. That's an eye opener. ...as was the mole grips on the splines ...though they do at least look to be newish ones with relatively sharp teeth. Would that be one of the super strong, rare earth magnets ? And do you intend to use them around your oil filter too ? My current thinking is that that is the most effective place for them. A really interesting thread this. Thanks, Rob. (I may have said that already). Does anyone else remember those strip down and rebuild guides for old brit bikes in Motorcycle Mechanics ..the ones that were like a cartoon strip of badly lit photos of greasy bits of engine ...? (I bet Zhango does). This is like the modern version.

02-07-2013, 07:18 AM	#133
zhango Guest Posts: n/a	Utopia, I was a regular reader of MM and as a teenager with no money I learned a lot about bikes from that mag - the articles tended to repeat though so how many times did you need to be told how to grind-in valves? Yes, the photos were not good but it was a long time ago! I agree with you about using Neo magnets on the oil filter - I've got some N52 which I got from SPIDER MAGNETS on ebay.

02-07-2013, 08:44 AM	#134
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,719	Utopia: The magnet I used was a flat ceramic disc from a scrap pair of cheap computer headphones. Zhango: I didn't paint the cases in the end. After discussing with Dave, I decided to try bare metal and an occasional wipe over with ACF50 since it's going to be a fairweather/track bike. Time will tell.

06-07-2013, 09:50 PM	#135
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,719	Earlier in the week I stripped the starter motor so I could stick in a new brush kit from the ever efficient Electrex World. Cleaned up, primed and painted the casing, looks like new and can go back on tomorrow. The APE studs are torqued into the cases by locking two of the old head nuts together. Sadly they're 23g each heavier than the stock ones so we're 184g in the wrong direction here, at least that's not rotating or reciprocating mass. Piston ring gaps are checked and are all good at around 0.35mm Checked the clearance in the piston while I was at it, unsurprisingly no problems with brand new kit.