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[utopia]

Thinking this through a bit more, I reckon what I'd do would be to get a bolt the same size as the rivnut, fit it with a nut, followed by a decent washer (or two) then screw the whole lot into the rivnut by 5 or 6 threads.
Thus you would end up with a washer next to the swingarm/rivnut, then the nut, then the bolt.
I think if you hold the head of the bolt and tighten the nut down against the swingarm and washer, you should then be able to tighten the nut further (while still holding the bolt head) and this should draw the rivnut tight.
Then you can either drill it out and replace it or simply leave it alone and continue to use the old one.

Similar techniques for rivnuts are described on youtube .. its worth a look before you start, just to verify the method and familiarise yourself with how to do it.
....the method that I suggested above is just off the top of my head, but I think its about right.
If you do fit a new one, you could use the same technique to fit that, saving the expense of buying a rivnut gun.

[Flip]

Yes they are definitely 'Rivnuts' that hold the hugger on and they are the type that sit a little proud of the surface they are fitted into.

I use them a lot at work and they basically work in the same principle as pop rivets meaning you need to be a little mindful of the thickness of the material you are fitting them into to ensure A- they grip correctly and B- they are not overly pulled so as to squash down too much. But it's not really rocket science if you have a bit of 'feel' for how tight things should be.

Originally Posted by Darkness

Thanks for clearing that up. As I said, I don’t have that fitment of hugger on mine so assumed it was the same as side panels.

Out of interest, any idea why it needs Rivnuts there rather than WellNuts?
The later front mudguards suffice with four plastic straps to hold them on.

I think you have just hit the nail on the head as 'Well Nuts' are generally used when a degree of cushioning is required or controlled vibration is allowed so the risk of fractures are reduced. Such as fairing and side panel brackets.

Whereas in the case of the hugger a shouldered screw is used for fixing where the shoulder fits into an oversized hole in the hugger meaning that when it is tightened (assuming it has been aligned correctly) the screw tightens fully onto the slightly proud lip of the Rivnut fitted into the swing arm.

Originally Posted by utopia

Thinking this through a bit more, I reckon what I'd do would be to get a bolt the same size as the rivnut, fit it with a nut, followed by a decent washer (or two) then screw the whole lot into the rivnut by 5 or 6 threads.
Thus you would end up with a washer next to the swingarm/rivnut, then the nut, then the bolt.
I think if you hold the head of the bolt and tighten the nut down against the swingarm and washer, you should then be able to tighten the nut further (while still holding the bolt head) and this should draw the rivnut tight.
Then you can either drill it out and replace it or simply leave it alone and continue to use the old one.

Similar techniques for rivnuts are described on youtube .. its worth a look before you start, just to verify the method and familiarise yourself with how to do it.
....the method that I suggested above is just off the top of my head, but I think its about right.
If you do fit a new one, you could use the same technique to fit that, saving the expense of buying a rivnut gun.

I would probably give this a go too if I didn't already have a Rivnut tool but when an unbranded one can be picked up, complete with a full range (M3-M8) of Rivnuts for less than £15 (or a Sealey branded one for just over £20 and an Eclipse at around £35) you might as well buy the tool and give the existing one a little pinch up.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/86Pcs-Thr...kAAOSwFUlahn4X

You'll be surprised where else you'll find a use for them too.

I’m sure I’ll find a use for the well nuts I’ve ordered.....🤔

My wheels and frame are going for paint this weekend.
The wheels have discoloured quite a lot and look kind of green. I’m not sure if someone has had a go at them in the past.

My question is.... are my wheels supposed to be the same silver as my tank but with a satin finish?

Thoughts on the paint job?

[IMG] [/IMG]

https://postimg.cc/gallery/dwt4ryrg/

Red or silver I'm thinking but you might want to consider what you're doing to the rest of the painted parts

Just found this thread, paint looks great. Wish I could see all the earlier photos.

It’s supposed to be this colour and finish

I don’t know why i can’t get the pics any bigger......

You may or may not notice that the gold is too dark and the lacquer is to glossy......

I don’t know whether to go with it or strip it and start again.....

[Darkness]

Originally Posted by davkyt

.....the gold is too dark and the lacquer is to glossy......

I don’t know whether to go with it or strip it and start again.....

What paint shade have you used?

Keeping it really depends whether you like it, and what you are trying to achieve?

If you want a perfect match to original paint that’s a slippery slope as the gold frame paint doesn’t seem to be all the same on the earliest Monsters with black wheels. It was a different then, more champagne shade of gold on the next Monsters (With silver wheels), then went silver, black, or all sorts. 916s are completely different too,

For mine I matched the original paint I found under the Type Approval plate riveted to the frame, but that showed the rest of the frame paint had lightened where exposed to sun and air. 1990s paint clearly wasn’t completely colour stable.

If you like the paint you’ve got, just keep a swatch sample handy when choosing complementary and contrasting colour shades for everything else.

‘Lacquer too glossy’ can be fixed by being gently flatted back and over-sprayed with a coat of semi-gloss.

[Darren69]

I think you're posting the thumnail links instead of the hotlink:-

@ Darkness...

It is beautiful.... and I do like it. The gloss upsets me more than the colour.
If I could easily/cheaply get it Matt without having to strip it and start again then I’d go for that.

The guy matched the colour to a book of Ducati colours he had. He convinced me that my paint had aged and was the reason for not getting an exact match.
After I got it blasted and a coat of powder primer applied i took it to him, with the wheels.
So he had the wheels to match the lacquer too.
He still has the wheels and assures they are perfect.

Decisions decisions....

[Darkness]

Something to bear in mind is how little of the frame is visible if you keep the standard side panels, especially if you keep the high level silencers. You are looking at a lot of new gold paint at the moment and little else.
I’d be tempted to keep it as it now is, but go for a mirror polish on the exhausts and a few selected parts to throw it into relief, but for going on with would loose fit the tank, saddle and saddle cover to see the contrast. Laying the fork uppers alongside too would show the contrast with them as well for a fuller range of colours on the finished bike.

[Albie]

My penny worth. Leave it be. Looks very nice. If I were you and unhappy trial somewhere unseen with a green scourer ( just a single pass or two ) to take the polish off the top and leave it alone after. It will naturally dull anyhow I reckon.

I suppose I could class this as a trial run for when I re do it in another 20 years time.

It’s just a shame with how much time I put into making sure I had the exact colour....